OK, so I have decided to do a little write up on the ever popular automatic to manual transmission swap. Maybe there will be less questions asked about it now.

First of all, what you NEED:
Transmission.
Shifter + metal and rubber surrounds.
Shifter boot.
Transmission mount.
Driveshaft. (needs to find one from the proper trans. and length.)
Clutch and brake pedals.
Clutch master cylinder.
Clutch slave cylinder.
Clutch lines.
Clutch assembly.
Flywheel.
Vacuum hose grommet (located on the top of the intake plenum, next to the firewall. One of these lines used to go to the Auto Trans and is not needed anymore.)
Throttle position sensor. (I've read there is a way of adjusting the autos so it works, but I don't know how.)

You do NOT need to swap computers.

You will have to do a little re-wiring. The wire cluster that connected to the automatic, find the wires for the neutral sefety switch and reverse light.
There are two easy ways fo doing the neutral safety switch. One, take the Overdrive switch off the autos shifter, put that in a blank spot on the center console. And Two, Get yourself an actual neutral safety switch from a manual (the one at the clutch pedal) and wire it up to that. The switch on the center console is also a nifty anti-theft device. The reverse light is really easy, just hook up the 2 wires from the cluster to the two wires on the switch.

Once you get it all hooked up and running, you will need to adjust the idle, it's going to be very high. Find the idle adjustment screw. It's located on the driver side of the intake plenum, facing straight out from the side. Bring it down to 700 RPM's or so.

As far as the actual pulling parts out and swapping in new ones, use your head and double check what your doing. Pretty basic though. The pedals are the most annoying part of the whole swap in my opinion. Not good on the back.

If you feel I missed anything, please speak up.

Power wash your wheelwells before you start (or wear goggles). Put down the windows before you disconnect the battery. Remove drivers side seat. Cut piece of 3/4 plywood to fit the floor where you will be lying to do the pedals (where the seat should be). None of this will prevent you from doing the job but will make it more pleasant.

I'm working on a more comprehensive one, with some pictures.

Oh yeah easier to pull out the pedal cage from donor and donee. and swap them them than trying to get the clutch pedal in and the brake pedal out from the one with the auto. ITs like the four bolts through fire wall holding the brake booster and two you need to take the dash out to get at. Once it is loose you will swear it won't come out (and at it) but if you keep wiggling and pulling it suddenly kinda pops out in your hand. Disconnect brake linkage and you won't have clutch linkage until you intall the master clutch cylinder. Go to the junk yard first and try getting the cage out there where you don't worry about messing up. Also you will be able to see what parts you need hoping you find an intact junker. (I was lucky everything was there but the hydraulic line to and slave cylinder got those off another one the next week)

It's much easier to take just the brake pedal, and not the whole bracket it's attatched to.

i just finished mine, i have not adjusted the idle screw though. It was not to bad of a conversion but just took some time waiting for parts and such

About how much does it cost to do the swap?

ummm... depends... if you go junkyarding who knows, junyards are crazy and very... but for me when i sold my whole manual setup... i charged 325 shipped... that was with 40 shipping so i only made i guess 285....

http://www.xenonz31.com/autotomanualswap.html

Vic's auto to manual Writeup