spray paint
#1
spray paint
um.... i don't have enough money to get my zx repainted sofor the time being i would like to spray paint it because it looks like s@#$t is there a way to make it look half way decent and how would i do it?
Thanx
Thanx
#2
yep there is a way, it's called saving up for a Maaco paint job.
If you insist on spray painting a Z. Don't tell us about it.
Seriously though, if you must. Apply even coats from a distance of 12-18 inches. Allow to dry and repeat several times. If you're too close it'll pool and drip. Good luck.
If you insist on spray painting a Z. Don't tell us about it.
Seriously though, if you must. Apply even coats from a distance of 12-18 inches. Allow to dry and repeat several times. If you're too close it'll pool and drip. Good luck.
#3
Re: Earl shieb paint shops charge about $200/$300
Originally Posted by rupert42
um.... i don't have enough money to get my zx repainted sofor the time being i would like to spray paint it because it looks like s@#$t is there a way to make it look half way decent and how would i do it?
Thanx
Thanx
Billy
#4
if you have a compressor and a gun, or know someone who does, the best way to do it is to go down to a local auto body supply store and pick up a couple cans of EZ primer. I did this on a friend of mine's truck last summer and it only cost about $100-$120 and it looked pretty sweet when it was done. it took about 3 quarts to do the entire truck in 5-6 coats. now, it's going to take about the same amount of work if you do the sanding the right way. with the primer, sand paper, tack cloths, gloves, primer, reducer, activater, and assuming you have the right tools, or know someone who does, it should only cost max $150. it may be a little bit more than doing spray paint but it looks a whole hell of a lot better and when you can afford a new paint job you won't have to strip all the sh*t paint back off and start all over again. All you'll have to do is start out with some 220 and work your way up to about 4000 or just let a body shop do it. the cool thing about primer is that it's thick and hard to run. first timers can do it without running it. the most important thing is the prep work. PAINT SHOWS EVERYTHING!!! if you don't get the body prepped right, then all of your mistakes will show. there's a lot of debate as to how to properly prep your car for paint in order to get the best paint job. it really depends on what kind of quality you want for you paint. personally, i think if your looking for show quality paint you need to take it down to bare metal. you can just take some 80 grit paper and remove all the paint or you can go with the easier more expensive way and buy paint stripper, but that stuff is real nasty. if you've never used it before i'd recomend having someone who has help you. if you're just looking to do a quick fix just make sure you get the paint sanded down real smooth with no high spots. good luck. sorry for running on.
#5
I spray painted my 260z a flat black with about 20 cans of Krylon brand Rust-Tough industrial rust proof spray paint. It looks sweet in my opioion. To prep, I bought this Airplane stripper sold in quarts (note: use Rubbermaid latex or plastic glove and have about 4 pairs on hand to change into- this stuff will literally take off your skin!) . I swabbed it on and let it sit for 10 minuets in the sun then ran a paint stripper disc on a power drill over the surface and the paint litterally fell off. Then i sanded down starting with 120 grit, then 220, then down to 4000. I then put a metal prepper on it called POR-15 Metal Ready (sold by MSA or any other good auto shop), it cleans the metal really good and slightly etches it ensure the paint will adhere properly. I then went to Pepboys and bought about 4 tubs of Bondo and lathered it on the ENTIRE car (my car was in bad cond. but i recommend doing this because as zr8d said, PAINT SHOWS EVERYTHIING!) I then sanded down the Bondo with 4000 grit sandpaper real smooth. Finally, put the cans of spray paint in a large tub of hot water to allow particals to atomize so you don't get any "snot" or pre-dried paint particals on the surface and the nozzle won't clog up this way. I let em sit for about 20 minuets or until the water is room temp. Then, stand back about 12-18 inches and spray LITE coats of the paint over the surface, and if it looks bad, wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any of the "snot" previously mentioned. The main tip- keep the spray can MOVING! If you stop moving it the paint will gather and start to run, NOT GOOD. Let it dry and you're good to go. The best rattlecan paint job ever!
Dave
Dave
#7
sorry, i'm a college student and i own a 30 year old car- means no money for a digital camera or even a disposable one LOL. Maybe i'll get one for christmas. If i can get some pics I'll post them asap, tho.
And about the articles in SCC- those are what I used for reference and insperation. The paint job looks exactly like the one of the project STi.
Dave
And about the articles in SCC- those are what I used for reference and insperation. The paint job looks exactly like the one of the project STi.
Dave
#8
No matter what you do, make sure you do your best to do it right. If you do go with a spray can job be sure that it is a quality paint that you won't have to remove in order to properly paint the car. Check your local auto parts stores and paint shops they will be able to recommend a good product and usually a good process as well. Your lookin at a lot of work ahaed no matter what if your goin to do it yourself. And remember 91zxtt sig:
'If you don't have time to do it right, then when will you have time to do it over?'
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