i have built this kit for my bros 240z. it utilizes toyota landcruiser 4 pot calipers and 300zxtt rear rotors. the rotors are 11.5inch and are vented. i had to machine up the custom caliper bracket and also had to turn the OD of the hub to fit insude the rotor. in the picks you can also see the lower camber blocks wich also aid in getting the lower control arm geometry back when lowering the car.




the calipers arent the lightest as they are iron but they are cheap. if any one is interested in part numbers i have them available.

 

Holy shee-ite! That's beautiful!

 

thanks man its nice to find this site, as you can see im a noob here. but i know what im doing and im sure i can help out other 240 owners with one offs if needed. i can basically do anything. heres a pick of another car im just finnishing up although its not a 240 it is crazy.


honda powered mini. i custom fabbed the whole front end and reworked customized the front suspension. this pick is an older one.

 

If you swap calipers right to left... it might actually be bleedable...

 

ya , you dont think that i have thaught about bleeding them. these calipers need to go a certin way due to the differential piston bores. i have bleeding figured out, smart ***

 

what do you have to do to bleed them?

 

First off, take it easy.. I don't think he was trying to be a smartass man

Second, cool pics!

Daniel

 

^^^ Super old thread... back from the dead....

 

Lol woops, wasn't watching Seems like there isn't much activity around Zdriver lately

Daniel

 

I'd say do some searches here but some posts are so old the pics are gone. Here's what I did a few years ago. Toyota front S13 calipers. Had to make spacers for the '84 zx rotors. Easier than brackets and they bolt on correctly to make bleeding possible. Wheel adaptors are for my 17s.

 

theramz, I was thinking almost the same thing except I was thinking of the S12W calipers which use the vented rotors. It's a pretty straight forward swap without all the custom fab work that was done above.

Very good work though and cool to see someone doing something different!

 

I think you still need to space out the rotors with the S12's. If you'll notice, my spacers have a step for the rotors. Also there is a counterbore for the hubs so that everything runs dead true. No vibration even at 100+ mph.

 

There is a sticky thread about various brake upgrades with pictures and part numbers at HybridZ.org http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104735
There are several different Toyota front caliper versions that require spacers and will work with vented rotors. The variations include combinations of large and small pistons, all large pistons, all medium sized pistons, location of inlets and bleeders, banjo inlets and inverted flare inlets, 2 different pad sizes, the larger piston calipers will accept Z32 non turbo brake pads(more compound options and availablity). Some of the calipers are finned and will not clear most wheel centers. etc, etc, etc...

280Z and 240Z hubs are DIFFERENT!!! the wheel offset is the same on both sets of hubs... but the 280Z ROTOR offset(rear face) is more inward than the 240Zs rear hub face rotor-mounting-offset. The 280Z hubs require a different spacer!


I have been using a set of spacers for years. I have been taking the hubs(with the spacers and rotors mounted) to the brake shop to have the rotors turned on the hubs to ensure perfectly true running rotors.
I have been having problems with new rotors simply bolted on using the spacers. My spacers and hubs have years of track abuse on them and the spacers may be getting buggered up. The corrosive Hawk Blue pads that I have been using may also contribute to dirt and corrosion build up on the spacers. I can run the brakes hard to the point that they will sometimes crack wide open and never show any signs of warpage until the rotors crack all the way through.

 

Sounds like some intense heat goin' on there! Do you think drilled/slotted might help? Also the hubs on 70-71 are thinner by 2mm.

 

Drilled and slotted make the problem worse. I can usually get one set of pads and rotors to work together for aournd 6-10 hours of track use. Then they need to be replaced as a complete set. When they crack it is usually due to improper cool down and not the fact that they overheated in the first place.

 

The S12W are the ones that use vented rotors and require spacers, the S12 does not use vented rotors and thus no spacer is required (though the dust shield must either be removed or cut to accomodate the slightly larger physical size of the S12 caliper).

 

There are different mfgs of rotors and I'm sure you buy the best. Have you tried cryogenic (-320 degree) treatment? We have used it on high stressed materials with some success eliminating heat cracking. What it does is relax the stresses induced in the manufacturing of the part. Drilled and slotted rotors have even more stresses. Might be worth a try.

 

Anyone have the specs for the spacer required for a 240Z and the vented 300zx calipers that I can take to the local machine shop. Measurements and drawings would be great. Thanx in advance for any help. G

 

Here you go GaryZ240. The dimensions are for 70-71 hubs. For 72-74, reduce face to .591 and over all length to .920. These are for '84ZX vented rotors with S13 calipers like I used. Good luck, Tom

 

Thanks RamZ, I've got one drawing someone sent me, but the file was very hard to read - like a photocopy of a photocopy. This should be much clearer for my machinist. You make this out of Aluminum, yes? Gary.

 

Yeah, 6061 T-6 is okay and it's the cheapest. It resists corrosion without anodize. The 6 inch diameter aluminum might be hard to get in short pieces. The metal supply will hit you with a cutting charge so you might cinsider making one or two extra sets to offset the cost since the machinist will have two set ups too. I made three sets and sold complete kits on ebay to help make up for all the time I spent developing the dimensions. I havn't raced my Z but it stops great. Your in for a big suprise!
Also the later hubs had bigger corner radius, chamfer the bore on the back face about .05 x 45 degrees.

 

There is a set on ebay for $120