What is the trick to getting the rear struts out? I know I have to remove the whole hub and everything. I got the locking pin out on the lower a-arm connection but that steel rod with the two large nuts won't budge. Do I need a press or some special tool to get it out?

 

It' really tight and corroded in there. I used a piece of steel bar stock, drilled a hole in the end to allow it to fit over the threads. I wet everthing down with penetrating oil and the next day was able to drive them out. I still managed to booger the threads on the pin a little but I repaired them with a small triangle shaped file. MSA sells new ones for $23 each.

 

I have a spindel pin puller! It will pull the pin and save it from damage so it can be reused saving some cash . No pounding and it doesent require the removel of the suspension part from the car. Makes it a easy couple of hour job and if you are going to install ureathane bushings , you can use the tool to spread the part the 1/16'' to allow everything to slip togither. I have it to loan , I just require you to pay the shipping cost both ways and a promise to return the puller when the job is done . Contact me if you need it. If you have pounded on the old pin already this puller WILL NOT WORK . For and example of shipping cost . I shipped it to the San Francisco area from Portland Or and it was $8.00 each way.

 

i managed to replace the struts on the rear of my 75 by just removing the suspension A-arm from where it pins in to the center cross-member.. i then pivoted the whole strut assebly with wheel hub still intact down and managed to get the strut out of its tower.. but as i recall it required some interesting shifting and fenagling...... but imanaged to do it. i had to remove my halfshafts too, but i had to replace one of them at the same time so it was all gravy. if you do it this way it might not be a bad idea to inspect those halfshafts real thoroughly, and replace if theyre old, and if you can. kinda like doing a water pump when you do a timimng chain, just cuz youre there already, yanno?

 

ok guys.... ya, about 5 months ago when I did this I just disconnected the half-shafts and the parking brake cable. I was able to compress the strut with my hand and get the thing to barely clear the fender and swing outward. The first rear strut took 4 hours to figure out. I did the rest of the car in probably 2 more hours of work. The front was much easier.

Since then I have read that removing the inner connections on the lower a-arm is easiest. (as Dareon and Kenneth said) But, one day I'd like to replace all those bushings on the Fairlady... that won't be fun.

 

its a little off subject, but thats a little peevish; i hate it when someone replies to a problem post that someone else made like six months ago and brings it to the top of the list.... because here i was telling bleachzee how to fix the roblem he's already dealt with, because i was too lazy to look at the date.. i guess we all get peeved when other peoples shortcomings bring up our own shortcomings..

eh, food for thought.