Before you it apart put it in the oven at 375 degrees for an hour. They assemble them with lock tight and it will fail at 350. You can also have the shop face some material off the end of the bolts. Make sure it runs true and then reassemble it with lock tight. The shim can be aluminum sheet cut out like a large washer. You drill one hole through and put a bolt in. Then yo use the flywheel bolt circle for a template. Take it apart and deburr the holes. Another note is the stock turbo pistons are dished. You have flat tops. I think your compression ratio is about 9-1 or more.

 

It's already apart. Thanks, but i'm guessing someone already did that on this one because it came apart with no hassle at all.

Also, I noticed the flat tops today, I am REALLY confused as to how that happened... I am very very confused, I do have another block with dished pistons in it, however it's an N42 block... I could switch them. or I could just get a 2mm HG. I have turbo'd and NA F54 block before and it actually ran great. but it was also at stock boost the entire time. So maybe i'll just leave them... quicker spool. haha. I'll have a nice large IC up front so intake temps won't be an issue, honestly the only thing that worries me about the flat tops is if/when I go to higher boost levels.


speaking of which, anyone out there got a thick MLS HG. lol. i dont wanna pay for the kameari one!!!! its tooo damn expensive! Every company that prices those products from that company is smoking crack!!!!

 

Also, Nismo, wth I expected to find something in here of interest on your behalf... pffft. SMPYWD blah blah blah

 

The F54 block was used on some other 280zx na cars. I saw a '79 na with the F54 in the junk yard. It also had the hole for the knock sensor but no sensor. I'm going to start mine next month but I think I will spring for the gasket.

 

You know what... look at those pictures. P90 head with turbo everything except distributor... I'm thinking someone stuck a P90 head on the F54 from an NA. Oh well.

 

I'm just enjoying the show. I haven't seen any REAL questions from you yet.

 

The tilton question was real!!! and the who made a rear sway bar that was 1 inch thick was real! other than that, yeah I'm just that smart...

 

So here is another question, now it is possible I just never paid any attention the the valve springs in any other heads of mine and they were all like this, but I coulda SWORE they were all single spring. But the P90 I have is a double spring setup... this standard? lol. speaking of which got the head back





gooooooosh do I wanna port those intake runners so bad, but am fearful of touching a head. especially since the valves are back in it...

this is "one" of my work tables


anyone want to buy a turbo intake mani with all the gay crap blocked off already and soon to have the webbing removed?


this piston says STD P79...


valve cover getting cleaned up


and exhaust mani painted


it'll prob get exhaust wrapped to since I need all the heat insulation I can get thanks to the monster turbooooo.
just ordered ARP con rod bolts and rod bearings. put in a offer on a kameari HG and ARP head studs.

ok here is another question, what is the NA cam that everyone is so batshit crazy over sticking into their turbo head cause it works sooooooo well supposedly?

 

Wrap the header before you put it on. There is a good article on turboing the L6 on Zhome.com. Predetonation is the mortal enemy of the turbo engine. A megasquirtnspark would be a good investment. Boost retard and even water injection quench.

 

never read zhome.com will definitely look over it all. But yeah I will wrap the header prior to putting it on haha. For now I am using stock electronics at stock boost just to make sure everything is working fine. Then I may go Z31 ecu upgrade with nistune for tuning or maybe haltech or SDS. lately it seems alot of people are turning away from MS because it isn't very efficient nor the best standalone progrma to start with. So I have my doubts about going with it. Though for the price it is hard to beat.

Alos big shout out if ANYONE is wanting a 1.6mm (that's .1mm larger than a stock HG) Kameari MLS head gasket and ARP head studs, I offered this guy 350 bucks and he accepted. well, they actually, they are a somewhat reputable tuner shop in texas and I'm guessing they stocked up on a few datusn L series parts, mainly a few ARP items and a few sets of 3 different thickness head gaskets and now can't sell them locally. here is the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/L28-2...item35ab3036fc

and at a 1.6mm HG with ARP studs for only 350, that's 30 dollars more than what thezstore sells that gasket for alone!. lol.

and here is their other stuff incase anyone wanted a thinner gasket

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...ri+l28&_sacat=

 

Shady did a bit of research on the cams & at MSA 07 we talked about using the P79 (F) cam as a modified turbo cam. I installed my F cam in my turbo motor right after MSA 07 when my turbo cam got ground up on the way home, but I never got a chance to run it because the motor also had a rod knock. I replaced the head & cam entirely & haven't had the chance / desire to re-install the n/a cam. See attached cam specs chart.

They all have 2 springs (inner & outer):

 

Now why the F cam? it has hardly any differences than the turbo cams, seems the A cam would be a better choice... maybe even the C cam. Though Im pretty sure I only have A cams.

Also, BAHAHAHAHA at me for never ever realizing there has always been an inner and outer spring on every Z I've owned and motor I have torn into...

 

The cam duration, and timing for open/close is different for n/a and turbo cams.

From the numbers, the F cam will have the same duration, but the intake & exhaust timing is slightly different...

So crunch the numbers... or just dyno the two cams.

 

So you claim that the slightly different timing yet same exact duration and lift is more beneficial, than a cam with similar timing as the turbo cams yet more lift and duration.... hmmmm.... idk.... I demand a mechanical engineer to chime in!

 

Paint paint paint! Just a start, need some primer before the finders and hood get sprayed with color. It's candy apple red. It's very metallic to, didn't expect that. And this isn't my color choice... I wanted to go with this color:



But my opinion apparently didn't matter since this color was already ordered without my knowledge... grrr!!!! But it's actually still a nice color. I do like it, just not as much as I think I would have LOVED that odd green...







I'll post up more pics when it is finished. needs A LOT more clear on the car, that first coat is scary thin... Plus once everything is sprayed I'm sure we will slap the fenders and hatch on and maybe the doors shortly after.

 

and sorry for the terrible picture quality, there was still alot of clear residue floating in the air which obviously is showing up and making everything hazy and crap.

 

Nice! That's going to shine pretty in the sun. If I ever get around to painting my car, it will probably be that color, or gunmetal gray.

 

Well I guess you are an unoriginal bastard since this car is going to be that color and my 78 280Z was painted that type of gray. lol.

 

Wow snw, that Z is going to pop. Really nice color, that' going to look quite sharp. Hey, could you come down and paint my Z?

 

Unoriginal no... better, yes. Mine will be "Morning Glory Red". Gold base (possible flake), then candy red.

Shoulda done it that way...

 

I didn't even want it red!!!! haha.

And I don't mind painting stuff for buddies, as long as all I have to do is spray. haha. To bad you are ridiculously far.

 

Tell ya what... you drive on out here w/ your left over paint, and I'll let ya shoot my car for free!

 

DEAL! waaaaaait a minutee...!!

 

ha ha snow make me laugh! Your car is looking awesome.

 

hmmm... does anyone know if they still make the TB spacers for the 240sx TB swap? and by they I mean ANYONE!