M-kay I have been making the turbo swap in my 260 and I got everything in and wired. (Thanks Snw for all the help) I got to start the beast and it won`t start. I got no spark. So after many hours and lots of schematic reading I decide it is one of two problems. 1. My crank angle sensor isn`t telling my ecu to work my coil. 2. my Ecu is bad. Now How do I test both of these? especially the Crank angle sensor?

I`ve narrowed it to these because everything else is working. EFI relay good. Can get a coil spark if I jump it to the battery, And my injectors are firing. The donor car was a 83` 280zxt and it hasn`t been easy finding diagrams and getting the wiring done, so this is highly discouraging.

 

if the injectors are firing the CAS isnt bad i believe. you are using the turbo coil and ignitor chip right? is the ECU LED turning on like i asked?

 

Yeah led is lighting up. Am using the turbo coil and igniter. Tested the CAS using a wire to bridge the power and running a multimeter on the plug that provides the signal to spark and it is working ok, tested the wire from the ecu to the igniter and it gets no interruption of signal. Ergo I believe my ECU is bad. Is there any way to test this other than it lighting up? I don`t know anyone locally with an 83 turbo 280zx so I can`t steal one for the test.

 

Is the coil bracket and ignitor grounded securely? It won't spark if it's not grounded.

 

yes grounded well. Again I can interrupt the spark by pulling out the plug going to the ecu and it sparks, but I am not getting any signal from the ecu telling the coil to spark, again I have good signal telling it to spark coming from the cas, going to the ECU, but not coming from the ecu. so I think it is bad, Any way to test this, and in anticipation of it being bad, does anyone have an 1983 280zx turbo ECU for sale?

 

go get some pictures. like, now if you could. of the connections you made and the coil/bracket etc. and also of the cas connector/wire if you could

 

No pictures tonite camera is dead, Trust me though, I`m not getting signal out of my ecu telling my coil to spark. Can autozone test an ecu?

 

no one can test these ecu's as far as i know. but. the LED wouldnt light up if it were dead, at least i dont think. because when my ECU started to act up before it completly shat on me. the LED never lit up. thats why i think its a connection that you made, or the coil/ignitor section itself

 

Right but My coil/igniter will fire if I manually interrupt the wire, I`m not getting any signal out of the ecu telling it to interrupt the power to cause a spark. I know yours is different year than mine, but could you take a multi meter and tell me what kinda voltage is coming from the ECU and going to the igniter? That would be really really helpful.

 

i did before once and i think it was somewhere around 12 to 13 volts.

 

Hmm that doesn`t sound right. Could you double check? Also Ohm`s too so I can figure If my ecu is bad or my igniter.

 

mmmm.... isnt the ignitor pulse fed not a constant power? i dont think a volt meter will pick that up. but i remember trying to test that when the car wouldnt start one day thanks to spark. just like your problem. and it turned out to be bad connections. all just bad connections. check your connections is what im trying to say. anything you self wired make sure they are done perfectly. and then the ECU plug wires can back out sometimes so try to push on each individual wire further into the plug/connector

 

Everything has been double and triple checked still no good, I`m gonna start looking for a standalone.

 

did you make your own grounds? i know there were a few i had to make? thats why i ask for you to take pictures and let me know what connections you actually made yourself.

 

The only ground I made was the ecu earth. What other grounds are needed? I`m gonna be pissed if I miss read the schematics.

 

i believe there were 2 or 3 grounds i made. well, ground points. i think i actually grounded lik 4 or 5 wires. one im pretty sure is an AFM ground. ill look into it.

 

Cool, I`ll go get pictures in a bit too.

 

This is switched power to igniter.

This is igniter plug itself, I had to build.

this is the connection between the igniter and the wire I ran to ECU plug.

This is connection to ecu plug for igniter.(other end of the wire above.

This is a ground, it grounds like 5 things according to the schematic. It is grounded to the intake manifold on the other end.

This is the oil cooler. Thought I`d throw this in for fun.

This is the FI relay, theres a mess of wires, I split the harness open to follow some back and around and haven`t got it all prettyed up again.
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.

 

hrrmmmmm... that seems all wrong. well not all wrong, but your definatly missing some connections. also, dude, use macro setting on the camera. lol. lemme go pull my car into the garage and ill take pics. well, first its gotta charge. i let the bat die

 

LOL If it where my digi camera I would macro, but that was cell phone pics. I appreciate your help.

 

i dont wanna take pictures, so im going to try to explain everything first cause you only posted like 3 connections, and thats way wrong. did you sit down like i suggested and drew your own schematic out? you really should have before just wiring.

any who

there are these 2 wires, one is green, one is brown, its a constant power source! both of them. these 2 wires will need to be connected straight to the battery!\


now, in that plug that held the wires for your ignition harness, one is a switched power, (on position with key) and the other is ran to the other coil connection.




here is an illustration for your harness, and is the exact same as my 82 harness (at least wire position and use wise just different colors and +/- 1 or 2 wires that werent used anyways.




ignor the fuel pump section though.

simply study the connection in that illustration. find plug 2 in that photo and then on your harness. did you make the connections from the lower YW wire to the ignitor chip? also in that plug did you run the straight Y wire to the starter signal? it should also be a yellow wire (its the spade plug that goes to the selonoid on the starter itself) and then ground the black wire on that plug.


now plug 3 there should be a black and white wire that goes to the other post on the ignitor chip but also to the ON signal from the key ( i wired it directly to the hot wire that runs off the ON position. use a volt meter to assure that this gets power through it only when the key is in the on and start position.) i believe i grounded a few extra thing like the ascd speed controller wire and the AC circuit wire.


i think your simply missing that start signal wire i speak of, mine wouldnt spark but everything else worked when that connection went bad. i dont know why it isnt just put to the on position so you can push start the car but it isnt. im almost positive thats your problem.

 

here, i simplified and added in grounds as to my swap




ground that nuetral safety switch, that might also be the problem



EDIT: oops, i forgot to take out that other green wire from the schematic. ignor it as well.

 

Yeah I`m missing that wire completely. I`m gonna go put it on now and see what happens.

 

chances are, it starts, if you for sure have the other wires there properly. i remember i re-did all my connections EXCEPT that start signal. and the car developed the problem of everything worked but spark! and re-did that connection. since that day the car has started flawlessly every time, even if it ran crappy (but that was due to dirty and loose connections)


p.s. whats up with the hand tatoo? never really seen that before haha. is there like a full sleeve? or jsut the hand?

 

Its just the hand there, Maybe I`ll start a show off your tattoo thread in off topic, BTW it didn`t start. I`m gonna double check everything again. I`ll get better pictures too.