fuel pressure regulator vacumme line

 

wellll.... im going stand alone. got the car running and timming correctly and crap but im sick of this dinosaur **** wiring. my car wont stay running on a rainy day, my coil gets water in it some how.... and everything under teh hood is dry but theres moisture in the connections and physical water that comes out the coil when i pull the plug off it.... it idles for 2 minutes then just straight up dies, doesnt sputter, doesnt limp, idles strong then just shuts off.... and its only on days it rains... so ive been scoping and learning about megasquirt and im going for it. i finally learned how the ignitions signal works using a ford EDIS-6 system, BUT... i dont know how you people mount the wheel and VR sensor to their crankshafts... any ideas on that crap? also ive been looking up the megasuirts on ebay and i think im going for it, very affordable after all. lol....

here's a link explaining the EDIS system so now enlighten me on the 36-1 wheel mounting and VR sensor.... everything else is explained very nicely: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

 

btw what kidna turbo are you runing?

 

stock T3 for now, dont know what i'll ugrade to if i do upgrade, im still unsure on if im keeping the car or selling the car....

 

did some searching and found THIS picture

but im a little unsure of how you would mount that EXACTLY center and so the holes would match up perfectly at TDC so the VR sensor is on that tooth FLAT.... i mean off a few degrees give or take 5 or 10 you could relocat the VR sensor but.... any more and your a little screwed, more or less i guess would be my security of getting that wheel on there dead center and the holes to match... any suggestions from the Fab guys on here? LWW? Nismo? Frank? whoever else im missing...

 

This thread will help

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...highlight=36-1

 

Don't know what the first part of that thread is but the pic looks like the 36 tooth code wheel and vr sensor from a Ford EDIS system used by the MegaSquirt kit. You need a machine shop to drill and tap the damper. Then fab a bracket for the vr. Almost impossible with the engine in the car. You might be able to do it with the radiator out and damper off.

 

hmmm... so 280Z damper wheel 90's taurus edis wheel, mount to damper, then what, simply get the engine at TDC and rotate teh damper around on the crank until the proper tooth is pointing at roughly the mounting area of teh VR sensor.... hmmm... seems do able. unless like i would expect there is a key in place to keep teh damper from rotating, then im not seeing as to how he got so lucky that the wheel mounted to the damper so perfectly for him by the A/C bracket

on a side note, my car pisses me off. it would idle then just straight up die and not reastart,let it sit a few minutes with no power and starts back up but will die again, not until i drove it around for a few minutes did it finally hold idle perfectly, but it STILL misses when im giving it WOT and just doesnt seem to be pulling desirably.... idk yah guys.... idk... im going to **** off ALOT of people at my house but its gotta be done, im going to get a non EGR intake manifold, FAST and for a good friggin price, a new head gasket all metal just incase, and new intake/exhaust mani gasket, and i need the 2 gaskets for teh turbo mani to turbo and turbo to downpipe, then add it all, properly block off my non used ports get megasquirt in with my pallnet rail boost controller and dsm injectors and get my exhaust and IC piping made up, install ALL OF THAT in a week or two time, and pray to jesus it works out for the best... so looks like ill be spending a fun 1000 dollars perhaps, so its time to sell all of my parts i guess.... and if the car isnt running to my expectations, im selling the ****** fawker...

EDIT: whats the CR on the N/A 82 2+2.... 8.8:1 right? should hold up well to boost if DONE right no? i would think so.... but im gonna Compression test teh biotch to see where i'm at, mght just end up getting a turbo long block..... or maybe a short block would be better, i can use this head instead of the P90 since no one seems to like it, ill have easy acces to putting on the head gasket.... and so forth and so on.... idk... input any one?

 

could i get my car at TDC mark on the pully lip where i want "x" tooth on teh gear to be pointing so it corrisponds to my mounting point take off the damper pulley take it to a shop (what type of shop would yah think) and have them mount it like so:

because i think that might save me some time and heart ach to just spend like 75 bucks to have them fab that for me and tehn bolt back on

 

you cant rotate the damper on the crank, it is keyed. But why even consider doing that when it would be so much easier to adjust the sensor to line up with the pulley while the engine is at TDC. Fab up a mounting bracket for the VR sensor AFTER the pulley is mounted to the damper that allows this sort of adjustment rather then trying to get the damper to line up with the sensor. Your idea to mark the damper in the general area you would like the timing sprocket to line up to will ensure that the gear can line up with the sensor without fabbing some crazy mounting scheme.

 

thanks J i think thats what i might do... but ill look into the idea veyenel posted first since it WOULD be easier, but it jsut seems to good to be true. lol...

 

so i went junkyard hopping and found some fun stuff, but to no avail i guess. i found a taurus SHO but the pulley was gone, found one other EDI system but the coil packs looked liek **** the harnesses were crap so i thought i could at least get the 36-1 wheel off it, and yeah no socket big enough to get the crank pulley off, i did find a turbo 300zx 87 in the yard.... LSD REAR END right????? what should i get from that for a complete swap into teh s30? any ideas? oh and i finally did a compression test lol... took me long enough, im at 180psi on 3 cylinders and 190psi on the other 3..... sooo im good in the hood, im gonna get an exhaust and intercooling made up i think next week, and also im starting a megasquirt thread for us to all contribute to since we dont have one, and im interested in it.... gonna buy it actually.

 

Not all of them had the LSD. You can tell by the finned aluminum cover on it. Might even still ave the tag. Your Z may or may not have the R200. You need to swap the hubs on the diff so your axles can bolt up.

 

ok so i changed my coils out and car is running pretty good again, gonna drop teh oil pan for a little R and R or something, and maybe wrap some of my wires up in electrical tape to get rid of the rats nest look yah know?

 

oh yeah and im still fighting with my temp guage:
ok,
so the answer to this should be simply i have the 1 wire that operates my tempurature guage and yes its the right one, now im just curious as to how you hook up the white and yellow wire that are tempurature guage/tempurature sender oriented wires on the zxt turbo EFI harness..... because what i thought was my temp guage (the one bullet type connector thats attatched to the goose neck off the thermostat housing) seems to render me nothing, ive hooked the ECU wire to it thats supposed to recieve the signal for a fast idle or normal idle and then hooked the temp guage wire to the other EFI harness wire and nothing happened, hooked the temp guage wire directly to the bullet type connecter on the goosneck of the thermo housing and the temp guage goes straight up as if i were grounding the guage out to the body. sooo what teh hell am i doing wrong? just need teh temp guage to work because i forgot i didnt hooke up teh air regulator wire i grounded it because of future plans to eliminate it with an EGR less manifold.... soooo this is such a stoopid noob question but its really kicking my ***... WTF sends teh tempurature signal that i can hook my temp guage up to so i can tell if im over heating or not!!!! lol any answeres are much appreciated

 

Coolant temp sensor looks like this (stock is one piece, not two):



It should be the top one on the thermostat housing.

 

well, then mine is fawked or something, cause its not sending crap......

oh yeah, and i dropped my oil pan today to finish off teh leaks once and for all, and the pan is absolutley FAWKED.... i held it up to light and its like swiss cheeze. so i went out back got my other pans that DIDNT leak and dont have light showing threw them (even though they are NA pans) and i heated up the turbo pan the neck for the return line anywho, and pulled the neck right off nice and clean, so tommorow i drill a hole in the NA pan and reinstall the return neck. and tehn teh Z is on the roads until smoethign else goes wrong??? lol no until it recieves its stand alone... but that should go fast.

 

I guess I missed it, but I was curious what turned out to be the main source of your huge loss of vacuum? Also I'm wondering how does your car idle now?

 

car was idling perfect, i still dont know about the vacumme my guage reads squat on vacumme but it you actually DO unplug a vacumme line then the idle gets affected, but the guage works for boost. i did alot of work and it seemed to be running perfect but while it was idling and i was running around my house getting all teh documents for her, she died as i opened teh garage door. then started running what seemed to be stupid rich.... im gonna get a knew therm sender and CHTS and see if that fixez anything

 

well, still mystery on teh vacume readings, but after doing lots of stuff, nothing leaks, car will pull really good and steady no misses when its warmed up a bit, and it overall is just running pretty damn good ,EXCEPT for one thing. it happens on and off, sometimes if you let the car idle for about a minute, just before a minute, it will just straight up die. some times it will restart, sometimes it wont, i gotta let it sit, sometiems diconnect teh battery for just a few minutes, and restart her. sometimes, she will idle for hours if i let her. i have no fawkin clue as to what would cause that... any takers?

 

the coil is a possiblity.

 

or the Ignition Module. Mine was going wacky and was working kind of off and on.

 

yeah, seems to be running a bit rich at idle, so i think the CHTS is a bit off.... or the air regulator since i dont think it works for fast idle, idk. but it seems to just stop like its not getting spark, so i thought it was teh coil, changed it (since it was leaking out the oil) and it went away, but i used another old coil that when i pulled it out, it was sitting in a 1/4 inch of water about.... soo idk, i dont think its teh ignition module though because when i bout this coil since it was a turbo one, the guy said it was a brand new ignition module. idk, i just need to car to stay running when i let it idle ALL the time not just most of the time until i get MS. then it will all be good, like a brand new car.

 

If you've got a thermometer that can go over a bunch of temps you could pull your CHTS and follow what the Haynes/FSM say to do for checking it, at least to make sure before you buy a new one.

 

got a coild today, 22 bucks brand newzzz. so im gonna see if that does me anything i guess. honestly though, i just want to win this intake manifold get my electric fan, re-gasket my motor with an all metal headgasket and ARP sutds, maybe re-stud the crank to, not sure if i really want to or if its even necessary. and then go MS, with or without my echause and IC made up i can always do that after i spose