you put the oil pump and shaft in wrong i bet. bet you bet you bet you!!!! stick it to top dead center number one cylinder cam lobes up and with the dampener mark at the 0* notch, drop it and put it up again. with MUCH CARE!!!! its tries to ****in twist all the time. its a tough cookie. but miss it by one tooth and it runs how your is. like ****! also clean and check connection with the AFM plug ECU plugs and ignitor as well as CHTS. and the NA fuel pump will be fine to run it. just when you floor it it will most likely loose pressure up top in the RPM range and probably sputter around 5K or just get laggy.

 

Exactly. Timing is hella off.

 

I think Hoov's right, sounds way retarded like 10 degrees. Also an L series engine will run like that without any back pressure. If you are running only the down pipe it won't run for ****. Also you need 36 psi to make the injectors squirt instead of dribble. Make sure you have plenty of gas in the tank.

 

One tooth off ftw!!!
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it doesnt idle but prolly cuz i have a sucky fuel pump but its rnning!!!!

 

alright, time for that z31 EFI swap to get rid of that crappy AFM! what do you have your spark set at as of now?

 

well sparks are good i'm at 15* BDTC so but I think that should be good, i'm thinking it sputters and won't idle because of my fuel pump its just a 76' 280z electric one.

 

I HIGHLY doubt it's because your pump is from a 76 280z. The only noticeable difference would be under full boost... at idle, you're not boosting.

If you still don't believe me, check the fuel pressure at idle...

How about posting a GOOD pic of your engine bay so we can see what's going on.

 

originals aren't much bigger, was there a portion you had in mind nismo? my vaccuum are as follows:
nipple from turbo to BOV
nipple from turbo to wastegate
j-pipe to air regulator
valve cover pcv to TB
FPR to a random vacuum on manifold
that's pretty much it that I have vacuum wise, and now that i think about it i should probably hook up the brake master cylinder up to the manifold hahaha

 

lol, did you check for vacuum leaks yet?

 

second ^^^ and also possibly un metered air coming into the intake? and i can't see the AFM. you got it mounted the right way up? not on its side or upside down? lol


also you owe me dinner since i told you what the problem was. that or your first born.


and my turbo swap ran perfect on an open down pipe. the turbo is plenty - o back pressure

 

Why is the valve cover vent going to the throttle body? The stock route goes to the boot between the AFM and turbo. On your setup, you are dumping boosted air into the valve cover...

 

one more problem is the orange thing on the right side of the block.

also i would recommend dumping the air from the BOV to right behind the AFM.

and one last problem i see is your running the stock l28et ECU and AFM.

 

second what nismo said. infact that might bee a vac leak. and you can vent the BOV just might try to stall between shifts. and is the spring on it tight enough? otherwise it can cause a leak to. sounds alot like a VAC leak honestly.

 

Ok I dont see the AFM at all, nor a MAF. that might be a problem. or its really well out of sight

 

Don't worry the AFM is on right, and vertical.

But woops, i was just dumb and misinterpreted a couple posts i had read a while ago in which the j-pipe was run to the air regulator (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ntake+manifold) but I switched the valve cover to the air regulator, and the j-pipe to the TB.

So I started it again and it sounded better, and ran longer than it did last time (bout 6 seconds) then i could tell that it was starved from air, and i could hear some faint hissing sound or just something that didn't sound right and then for the first time i noticed this...

then I took a closer look in the TB and there's these 2 holes right before the plate one about 1/2 inch the other about 1/4 inch that run down into this giant lookin thing with a screw on the bottom (under rubber). I will search and find try to find out what it is...

An update: I was running it how it goes (barely at all) and I unplugged the TPS while it was running and there was no change, so i tested for continuity and the wires run fine to the ECU so i took off the box to see the TPS, and I was wondering should it look like this? I have a 2prong ECU to TPS conncetor but I have 3 prongs on my TPS. I read (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...&highlight=TPS) and it seems my box is normal and everything is normal so i'm thinking the problem isn't with the TPS. Out of curiosity, why is it like this? why does that third prong go to nothingness?

in the meantime, i'm checking my AFM and stuff

Alright here's today's results:
When I unplug the TPS nothing is affected.
When I unplug the AFM it'll start to die faster, then i plug it back in it revvs back up and then starts to die again.
All wire continuity is good going to the ECU.
Idles is at 15* BTDC

 

alright, grab your screw driver for this, i want you to to physically grab and try and move every hose clamp from your AFM to the TB, so we can rule that out 100%

second, seal the hole on your BOV and see if it runs any better.


third, grab some starting fluid and spray lightly across the vacuum hoses and your BOV, if it raises the idle you know what to do.

 

that TPS is of an NA motor the turbo is a 2 prong one, either will work so its fine. and unplugging the TPS doesn't drastically change anything. i still think it might be a VAC leak. you got a VAC/Boost guage hooked up? might be a good idea will help alot out.

 

took off all couplers and everything from the intake to the TB and reinstalled them making sure they were all on securely. The intake manifold is completely plugged up and now im sure that my fuel circuit is fine too

oh geez...

 

So does it run good er what?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uM_iEmb605Q
same old **** and boy is it getting exceedingly frustrating.

 

So have you timed it yet? With that really obvious lumpy exhaust it sounds like it's still off.

And good hell... get rid of that pos throttle body and get a normal one from a later L28 / L28ET.

 

whats your idle set at?

 

yeah maybe it is, that right there is at 15* btdc
and yeah i have a spare TB from the turbo manifold that I think i'm going to replace it with I don't like that BCDD issue at all

update: well i took off the old TB and put on a TB from a later model i believe its a '83 turbo? Its got a coolant passage on top and a AAR port but that's it, no BCDD or IAS or other port before the plate ( iono what its called) but now the problem is different. I dont get that rough idle, sometimes I dont even get it running, it'll just splutter, but at one point i had it rough idling and I could give it gas this time and it sounded alot better but then it would die again. I was thinking about adjusting my AFM tensioning but then I realized it's probably fine and I'd just end up screwing it up somehow. You can push in the plate with a 5 oz object (i set my ice cream scoop on it) on it so its probably still factory setting.

 

never answered my question duescher. do you have a VAC and boost guage hooked up! if so when you get her running and try get her to idle whats the VAC reading? also is it possible its flooding on you? that could be the CHTS. my turbo swap done the CHTS was bad and dirty and cruddy connecting and would flood out at idle.

 

Yeah i'm thinking its the CHTS I just started it up today after readjusting the AFM 2 teeth leaner it still runs the exact same. When I unplug the CHTS while its doing its rough idle it doesn't change anything.

The weird thing is this, when I give it throttle it will die for a 1/2 second and then revv up alot and then if i hold it say in the 3000rpm position it'll revvv then slowly start to die even as i hold the throttle there. Could all of this be because of some screwed up CHTS?