the mis fire could still be teh AFM or just dirty connections. other wise hope you got new cap rotor plugs and wires.

i also recommend cleaning the CAS out real good.

 

why do you think the AFM? yeah its pretty ugly sounding but I hope to be driving it around soon!!

 

when my turbo swap started stumbling around 3-4k and wouldn't rev any higher it was poor AFM to ECU connection.

 

Why do you question EVERY suggestion we give!?

 

mmmm, I like to know the reasons an causes instead of just checking everything its not that I doubt the knowledge i just like to know the cause/effects of what the part does that way down the road I might be able to figure it out and be mod of my own site just think of me like the worlds oldest child ;P


and no snw i'm not going back to illinois, although i was close to you that's about the only + of that state, the winter SUCKED, the chicks weren't tan (and were really clingy), and the education was a joke so I'm gonna stay in LA sorry dude but if you ever come to SoCal mi casa es su casa

 

haha, yeah i only rode out to you once anyways. the ACTUAL chicago chick though are SCHWING! the suburb chicks though while also contain the hotness gene, tend to follow the other things you mentioned lol. and winter is fun! its fall and spring that suck when its just cold and theres no snow. haha.

i would suggest doing a full afm rebuild or just replacing it even to be safe... clean out the cas real good as well. might even need to replace that. i did. they dont stay in very good condition over the years...

 

I can't believe it's still the way one pic shows, but the crankcase vent tube off the valve cover in one of those pics wasn't even on. That car, brand new, would run like crap by simply pulling up the dipstick while idling. It allowed unmetered air into the system, and fuel mix would go south. Bob Maher was the training supervisor at Nissan and used to point that out to dealer techs.
Whatever the problem is, it's BIG. I've heard 1916 John Deere's run better than that. Something is so far off you could drive a tractor trailer between the way it is and the way it's sposed to be. Incidently, I have a factory manual for a 79.(one of the benefits of buying a 205$ car off Ebay) Also have some Bosch factory spec books.

 

I appeared to you in a dream and you didnt' even listen! I give up...

 

bojo: dude too many farm analogies, all i got was: u didn't like the PCV being vented to the atmosphere and you have a '79 FSM.
bleach: i did listen to you in my dream and i adjusted my timing. But then i adjusted it wrong thinking it was wrong, and THEN i adjusted it back right.

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Today, I replaced the ignitor with a shiny newer coil I found from the move. I bought new NGK sparks all gapped at .043. Since I don't plan on driving the car with the AFM sticking out, I fabricated an IC pipe from the J-pipe; and yes it did take me far too long (about 3 hours) but its damn well solid.

 

OK, I'll make it simpler. Make that hose go where it's supposed to go and it could solve ALL your problems. That simple enough?? While your at it, familiarize yourself with the idle air adjustment on the AFM. Get those 2 figured out and it might run.
If lifting the dipstick on a brand new one will screw it up, it's a pretty safe bet leaving 2 HUGE air leaks like that would do just what yours is.

 

Tops of fenders are not for feet! Weak spot on the Z.

 

Fender footprints are cool these days.

I would reverse those IC pipes... so the short end is the cool side. Right now you're re-heating the IC out pipe w/ the radiator

 

from what i understand, lifting the dipstick introduced a leak (unmetered air) in the CLOSED PCV system, however when I run no vacuum to the manifold and no vacuum to the AFM boot, then there is no leak, I am simply letting the engine breath in a less efficient way, however this OPEN system is less efficient and oil mist shoots everywhere, not to mention there is no vacuum for my rings to be more comfortable in, and the blowby is contaimating my oil, etc, etc but for now I'm not too concerned about the PCV considering the engine itself is still missing.

Are you familiar with the N42/turbo issue? Even with a 90* bend it still bumps about 1/8th inch into my turbo coupling, which I have a heat shield on, so unfortunately its quite an ugly thing.

I'll give you a brand new 1916 john deere tractor if you can adjust the idle air on my turbo AFM.

edit: in the meantime, I'm putting together a PCV system so make/install tomorrow so don't worry its just for tonight that its still open

 

Well, If I follow "no vacuum to the manifold"??? and the rest, I guess I can see how you could believe that. Ya might wanna consider that anything behind the AFM will be at a little less than atmospheric pressure, so if your rings aren't blowing by enough to over come that, you have an air leak. Regardless, sounds like you think you got it all figured out.

Far as the n42 turbo issue goes, no, haven't messed with them much, and they didn't come out until after I was out of Nissan motors. Don't see the relevance either, but don't know. I'll bet my turbo is uglier, at least yours doesn't weigh 40#.

 

sorry by n42/turbo issue i was referring to the N42 MANIFOLD not the turbo, but the issue is the PCV inlet on the manifold is positioned perfectly disastrously right above the turbo, so you need a 90* bend fitting to fit it.

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...t=26385&page=2

i had it right here, but even if you look super duper hard it was still leaking just slightly from the compressor outlet. Yeup. so after i wasted 5 bucks on that 90* bend, i ended up plugging it up, those $8 lessons are killing me.

i have an idea of what i'm going to do though, getting a nylon hose barb and throwing that in the 3"-2" coupler I'm using for my AFM boot, and just routing that to the valve cover, and using a AAR inlet bend from the extra manifold i have and throwing that on a conveniently unused cold start injector port thats on teh manifold! bingo! but save that for tomorrow

 

So...I can't understand why I'm running on a few cylinders so I decided to test out my injectors. They are a mixture of brown and pink (I should have figured out something was weird ) from the P.O. and I kid you not, they're 2 different types of injectors. He told me they were all turbo injectors he used, etc, but guess what, they're NOT. I did my own little "flow test" and these are my results

1) 235cc (brown)
2) 230cc (brown)
3) 140cc real bad spray definitely clogging (pink)
4) 170cc (pink)
5) 232cc (brown)
6) 166cc (pink)

(percent error +/- 5%)

Ho boy...there's no question in this post, just thought i'd post this "lol this car is so fubar"

*sigh*

 

time for the z31 EFI swap......

 

this still isnt running

 

Well... it runs, just not properly.

 

minor details right?