I've done quite a bit of searching here and elsewhere trying to track down this issue. Long story short, I had a mechanic look into an electrical problem for me and eventually took the car back after they decided they didnt want to work on it. I fixed that problem, however I then have any turn signals, and only the left side hazard worked.

So digging into this I've done the following:

1. Fuses checked - ok
2. Simple wire conectivity (is everything plugged in) - ok
3. tested bulbs by moving them around to the left side that works with the hazard switch - ok
4. tested the flasher unit - ok
5. opened the hazard switch and cleaned the (filthy) contacts. This resulted in the left and right hazards working, but still no signals
6. opened the turn signal switch and carefully cleaned the contacts. Checked continuity with the switch in the left and right positions, both at the solder points and at the connector - still no signals, but all the signal lights front and back work when the hazards are on.

In my opinion, it seems like the switch is not getting voltage, or that voltage is being interrupted somewhere between the signal switch and the hazard switch. I'm coming up with a strategy of how to verify that today....

Anyone have any, 'hey dummy, did you check xxx?"

 

Sounds like you're doing it right - which is the hard way. I can only guess what Z model you're working with (you kept that a secret in your post ) but we had a similar problem in my Z31. We got out the FSM's electrical circuit diagrams to locate the problem circuits, the wire colors and the locations of every connector in the problem circuits. Then we tested every circuit one at a time for continuity between connectors - and located the breaks causing the problems. Fixed those and everything works again.

So, if your service manual has your circuit diagrams, get your tester out and test one circuit at a time. Otherwise, you are just chasing ghosts.

 

You're not a dummy!

I've got a 260Z and don't know which car you've got, or even if they're significantly different. My thoughts are based on my 260's wiring.

Sounds like you might not have a voltmeter or even a light bulb (or buzzer) with which you can test for +12V. I recommend getting a multimeter if you don't have one. The +12V test light/buzzer is probably around 5 bucks and would be the minimum you need.

+12V goes from the ignition switch through the fuse and then to the hazard switch's green wires (for the turn signal power).

From the hazard switch (green wire) it goes through the console harness to the junction block and then back to the flasher unit. Again, it's a green wire on the input to the flasher unit. With the ignition on, there should be +12V there. There should be +12V on the white wire going from the flasher to the turn signal switch as well.

Coming off the turn signal switch should be two wires, one is green with a red stripe and the other isn't labelled on my schematic but I'd guess it is green with some kind of stripe, maybe blue or white or black. Those wires should only have voltage (ignition on) when you activate the switch in one direction or the other.

I think you've got the problem isolated as you stated, no voltage at the turn signal switch. If you did have voltage there, the problem would be separated into left and right circuits and you're saying neither work so that's unlikely (unless you've got an open connector which you already checked, and BTW, you'd have to have two open connectors as front and back are separated beside left and right).

Hopefully the information on wire tracing will help you find the specific fault.

 

Crap, 1976 280z... I need to put that in my sig...

 

Thanks for the replies, I do have a meter. I have the correct FSM now instead of the random diagram I downloaded.

I found that my Hazard switch was faulty, I did not have continuity between the two contacts on the 'turn signal side' of the rocker switch. I have now corrected that and get a good continuity reading (which I didnt get before), but still no voltage at that point when the signal switch is on. I didn't realize at first that the power going to the hazard switch is only for the hazard lights. The power for turn signals comes from c3. As soon as I got the switch apart and saw the little insulators keeping the contacts from touching the hot wire for the hazards the light dawned a bit. Either the hazards are on, or the turn signals. The Hazard switch in the off position completes the circuit for the turn signals. I'm no engineer, but I'm not sure how intuitive that setup is.

So not I have continuity from one side of the hazard switch to the other, but no voltage. Per my 1986 diagram it looks like there is a blue wire on the upstream side of the hazard light harness that leads to c3 before going to the fuse block. Seems like it has to be there... maybe.

 

ok, so I found that the hazard switch now has +12 in and out on the turn signal side (hazard off) position. Generally postive...

So I looked at the diagram checked the Green wire at the flasher switch... +0.3 or +0.2 volts max... So that isolates this part of the problem between the hazard switch and the flasher switch.

But, reading the diagram from the FSM, they this wire goes through three blocks on the diagram, none of which have a label, EG: c5 c6 etc. I'm a bit inexperienced at reading these, so is that the same block and it's just showing it three times for clarity? Is it an inline junction and not at the junction block?

If I compare the drawing of the junction block connectors, the only one it matches is c5, two pairs of pins, a divider, then 3 pairs of pins. Does that mean it's c5?

I shall prevail...

 

Check power to the flasher. From there it goes to the turn signal switch. If you have less than 11 volts to the flasher the signal switch won't work because the flasher can't open and close the circuit.
here is a good diagram. It's for a 280z but the signal circuit is the same.
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...80z/index.html
That's not it but I have it at home, I'll get it later
Here it is http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...AR-WIRING1.pdf
]

 

Yes, you shall prevail...

The junction block has two rows of connectors, the top row has three and the bottom row has four connectors.

Blank C1 C2 C3
C4 C5 C6 C7

C1 is green
C2 is blue
C3 is black
C4 is brown
C5 is green
C7 is black

Tracing the green wire on my diagram, it goes from the flasher to C2 on the junction block, then to a connector in the console harness which leads to the hazard switch connector and then to the hazard switch itself where you had voltage.

C2 is the only connector on the junction block involved in this part of the circuit.

I'd probe for voltage on each side of the connectors starting at the hazard switch connector then the console harness connector then C2. If you had a dirty hazard switch, you're likely to have some dirty connectors as well.

Remember, hazard switch OFF and ignition ON. Good luck!

 

Narrowing it down a bit further now that I'm starting to grok the fullness of this diagram.

The two green wires coming out of the hazard switch and into the hazard switch connector. These wires emerge from the other side of the connector as blue and Green. The green wire goes to 'Connector A', and the blue wire goes to 'Connector B'. The conector B that has the blue wire picks up 12+ from the fuseblock, which is in turn sent through the hazard switch, where it comes back as a green wire into connector A. one of these two mothers has to be failing, else I would have 12+ at the hazard switch.

Hope to play some hooky this afternoon from work and get this figured out.

 

Finally got the signals to work. The green and green/Blue wires had pulled loose of their connector. The GB wire was just barely connected and was +12v to the hazard switch. The G wire had come completely out.

I made two splices that bypassed the harness connector and everything started working.

Thanks everyone for the help and encouragement.

 

For the record, the diagram from the FSM says that C7 is 'Brack.'

 

Congratulations. Problems mostly occur wherever something "connects" with something else. That can be an electrical connector, a mechanical interface or whatever. Thanks for coming back and giving us the solution as it now goes in the "Book of Fixes".

Yes, and according to my whole car circuit diagram, I have a "Grove Box Light".

 

Z Owners' Official Breakfast Cereal: Kerrogg Cone Frake