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1972 240Z Bleeding Breaks

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Old 05-04-2008 | 01:27 PM
  #1  
Ed-SpeedyZ's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Eagle, Idaho
1972 240Z Bleeding Breaks

Hi all,

I'm back to ask for more help. I finally got the car started, and am working to make it drivable. I need to "flush" the break lines and I found a link at AutoZone indicating I should open the right rear then the left rear break line. I'm use to the reference of driver side or passenger side, so does anyone know which side I should start with? Also, should I hook an air compressor to the lines to blow all the 20 year old fluid out, or should I just remove as much of the old stuff as possible from the reservoir, add fresh, and just keep pumping the break and adding fluid until the stuff coming from the break line looks clean?
Old 05-04-2008 | 03:04 PM
  #2  
NismoPick's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
It really doesn't matter what side you start on... if you want clean fluid in all 4 corners you will need to open all of them anyway. Don't use compressed air... that will make more of a mess than help.

All you need to do is open one corner at a time, have someone fill while you pump, and after 5-10 pumps check the color to make sure it's clean. Pumping while the bleeder is wide open will flush it pretty quick.

There's also tons of web pages that talk about bleeding / flushing / maintaining brake systems.

http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/brakef.htm

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...e-fluid-flush/

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/brake_fluid_change.htm
Old 05-04-2008 | 06:47 PM
  #3  
KasbeKZ's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: virginia
the order is given in the instructions for a reason. most instructions pretty much say to bleed from the wheel farthest from the master to the wheel closest. this is the surest way to ensure you don't get air in.

the left side refers to the drivers side, and the right is the passengers.

and as said, do your second option. just pump the brakes until clear fluid comes out. usually about 20 pumps on the back as a guesstimate will get all the dirty fluid out.
Old 05-06-2008 | 11:34 AM
  #4  
Ratfink's Avatar
Hoov for Pres!
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 959
From: Tempe AZ
I will add one more thing.

If you have ever seen Vegemite, that is what my brake fluid looked like. It was almost a solid it was so messed up. Remove as much as you can from the resevoir before putting new fluid in.
Old 05-06-2008 | 11:44 AM
  #5  
NismoPick's Avatar
The Good Twin
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
ooh! Vegemite! Yumm... Where's Vrocious? I wonder if he likes it.
Old 05-06-2008 | 03:19 PM
  #6  
Mhinrichs's Avatar
Mr. Fancy Connectors
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 648
From: Boise, Idaho
This would also be a good time to switch to braided stainless brake lines. Not really necessary but, why not?
Old 05-06-2008 | 05:59 PM
  #7  
Ratfink's Avatar
Hoov for Pres!
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 959
From: Tempe AZ
Because you really arent going to stop any faster if you keep stock brakes...

Money?

Time and labor?

Maybe you don't like stainless steel?

There's some reasons... haha
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