260z questions
#1
260z questions
I have a 74 260z I have some wiring issues I believe, but the engine was swapped to a 240z which is the l24 and its a 72, now my problem is that I don't have my tail lights or side marker lights working, my turn signals work and my headlights work, reverse lights and brake lights also work, my tachometer doesn't work and neither does any illumination on my dash board, quite the problem I have here, but one thing I have done was soldered a "jump" wire on one of my combination switches and got all the exterior lights to work on my car, the two point I soldered was when looking at the switch the one on top closest to you and on the right, then the other one was on the top and was the back left, ill add a picture just to make it less confusing, but I need help because I have no clue why it works with that jump
#3
So this is two pictures, this isn't the one I soldered but its the exact same kind, what I did was soldered a connection wire from the white/red wire to the green/white wire. On my other switch the wire color is different, but each connection point lines up
#4
By soldering the WR wire to the GW wire, here is what you did
1. You bypassed the fuse for the running lights.
2. You bypassed the combo switch.
3. You dramatically increased the chances for an electrical fire.
So, go back to my original suggestion. Download a copy of the FSM. By the way, there is a mistake in my post. You want the BE section, not the EE section for the diagnostics. Start on page BE-14.
Remove the jumper. It's just dangerous.
Next buy a good multimeter (if you don't already have one) and hide the soldering iron for now.
Use the multimeter to go through the circuits and verify they are in working order.
Spend a little money and replace all of the old fuses while you're at it, too.
If I have time, I'll try to remember to write up some more detailed diagnostics.
1. You bypassed the fuse for the running lights.
2. You bypassed the combo switch.
3. You dramatically increased the chances for an electrical fire.
So, go back to my original suggestion. Download a copy of the FSM. By the way, there is a mistake in my post. You want the BE section, not the EE section for the diagnostics. Start on page BE-14.
Remove the jumper. It's just dangerous.
Next buy a good multimeter (if you don't already have one) and hide the soldering iron for now.
Use the multimeter to go through the circuits and verify they are in working order.
Spend a little money and replace all of the old fuses while you're at it, too.
If I have time, I'll try to remember to write up some more detailed diagnostics.
#6
If it's in the engine bay, I would guess they are ballast resistors for a 240Z, along with a bunch of splices. Apparently the ballast resistors for 260Zs & 280Zs are made of unobtanium. They are differentiated from the 240Z by having a third terminal. I've never measured the actual resistance of the 260Z ballast, but I would think having two resistors in series would drop the coil voltage too much.
Addendum: I looked at http://www.carpartsmanual.com to see if I could find the Nissan part number. If I am not mistaken, the resistor is sold with the coil for the 260Z & 280Z. It's part number 22448-N3600 for the 260Z. Courtesy Nissan (http://www.courtesyparts.com) does not show that part as being NLA, but it is $166.
Addendum: I looked at http://www.carpartsmanual.com to see if I could find the Nissan part number. If I am not mistaken, the resistor is sold with the coil for the 260Z & 280Z. It's part number 22448-N3600 for the 260Z. Courtesy Nissan (http://www.courtesyparts.com) does not show that part as being NLA, but it is $166.
Last edited by Steve260Z74; 01-15-2014 at 05:05 AM.
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