When ever i push on the brakes, the little red brake light goes on. IS THAT BAD?!?!. i thought it was natural in a datsun =P.
What can be the problem?

I recently bought a brake master cylinder, should i put that in?
and i got new brake lines..Would that be all i need to replace? put in more brake fluid?

1974 junkyard 260Z
100% Junk Will be restored to a new car by next year.

 

i bought 70$ stainless seel brake lines =( was it worth all that money? im still waiting for it to come in, how do i bleed it? i know there is a small nut on the caliper right?, am i suppost to leave it so whenever i stop it leaks?? or just let some fluid out so i can pour in more.

-tony-

1974 junkyard 260Z
100% Junk Will be restored to a new car by next year.

 

oH, so its is a 2 guy job, Humm, Well thanks for the Help, i will bleed the brakes as soon as i can, or wouldn't it work better if a empty out the brake lines, and just put in new fluid? or will it cause alot of air to enter the brake lines.

1974 junkyard 260Z
100% Junk Will be restored to a new car by next year.

 

Not to ruffle any feathers, but DON'T PUMP THE BRAKES AT ALL!! When you do that the lines will fill with hundreds of bubbles instead of one or two large bubbles. Does this make sense? It is like mixing a bucket of water and oil and stiring it vigerously then trying to take out the oil. It just does not work that way. It was a lesson taught by older mechanics and it's wrong.

The best way and only way to bleed is release pressure and fill fluid one at a time. so,

The bleeder cracks open the bleeder valve and when he/she yells "down!" the pedaler pushs the pedal down and holds it there. The bleeder than snuggs the bleeder valve and yell "up!" when it is snug. The pedaler then pulls or allows the pedal up. The process repeats. This will force large air bubbles out of the system so it is easier to see and garuntee's there are no small bubbles that can later join-up and create one larger bubble. And don't forget to check and fill as needed about every four to five cycles (depending on resivour size)

I don't normally post here, so e-mail if you have any questions.

Nic

 

Another trick to keep it from pulling more air into your brake system is take a peice of rubber hose that fits the bleeder valve and long enough to put it into a jar of clean brake fluid. This will let you see the air bubbles come out so you'll know when you have all of the air out of that line. Also if the person holding the brake pedal lets up before you tighten the bleeder it will pull brake fluid into the system rather than more air.

Also, Nic is right. DO NOT pump the brake pedal or you'll be bleeding the brakes forever.

Keep the greasy side down.
-Mo

 

Hmmmm.... considering I've been working on cars for about 20 years, everything from 1930's to 2002 year model vehicles, the don't pump method is way off. I don't mean to be a pain, but if you attempt to bleed a pressurized system without adding pressure to the system, you'll be there for about 2 weeks trying to get the air out of the lines. THE BEST way to bleed the brakes is to use a vacuum bleeder that can be purchased fairly cheap at most parts stores, or from most online parts dealers. But in any case the system must be pressurized in order to get the air out. Take it for whatever you think it's worth.

 

people do things differen't ways, Some ways are better then others. Its just how you do it, explaning things over a fourm might now be exactly how they did it, But it is close to how they got the job done.


1974 junkyard 260Z
100% Junk Will be restored to a new car by next year.