I am having a problem with a 280z that I just purchased.

A little backround-
I bought the car from a proffesor who is the original owner and has service records from purchase to 06. The car is in great shape. He used as a weekend vehicle for the last 5 years. he let it sit for about 4 months then took it out on a weekend spin and noticed that it suttered/ran rough (drove about 2 miles total) took it back home and parked it for 8 months then sold it to me.

I show up to buy it the batterey is dead (I replaced) and the coolent and brake fluid level was very low (added). The back breaks are locked (due to the auto set drums) I free them up (Was not easy) then disconnect the e-brake to fix at a later time.

I treat the gas with stabalizer (sea foam I think it was callled). The cars starts and idles a little rough. I ran the engine for about 5 minutes then tow it home. Drain the gas tank add new fuel.

That brings me to now I can Idle the car all day no issue runs great. I can take it around the block driving slow (low RPM's) then notice it starts to buck slightly due to loss of power. I put the clutch in and put in in neutral and give it a little gas and she recovers sometime maybe stall if i am not quick to react. I can not get the car to drive with out the threat of getting stuck.

I took the fuel pump off to clean the screen that I thought wa sin there and noticed that the pump has no screen. I also notice that the pump has a sticker that says remanufactured so it has been replaced and I think it is the upgrade pump. I am replacing the fuel filter tonight and putting the fuel pumpback on. I have a fuel damper on order (might as well change that while I am there because it looks like the original).

Any idea guys? I am a not an expert on cars and I am learning as I go with the various resources I have found thru this site. EFI bible and such.

 

Welcome to ZDriver!

A basic tune up & check over should help. Along w/ the new fuel filter, check (and replace if needed) the spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Check the timing. Also check the TPS and AFM sensors and connectors (corrosion on the connections can cause probs).

 

it is an old car so you will want to go buy some dieletric grease.
then locate, clean and grease every single electrical connection.
start with the simple and less expensive stuff first and work from there step by step.
the car will eventually need a complete tune up plugs wire dizzy etc.
is the car running too rich or to lean? can you tell?

 

I have to hand it to the guy I bought it from he took very good care of her. When she will not start after stallin she seems flooded but no smell of gas. When I try to drive her she seems starved for fuel. Like I said it will idle till the cows come home. Problem seems to be when I demand more fuel.
I also noticed that there is a spring broken on the (throttle rail?) up in the front of the engine By some (pot thing) stall pot? it looks to provide back resistance to the throttle. What is it and what does it do?

 

^^^ Probably the dashpot you are talking about? It aids the idle down process.

Check this out... I think it will help you (downloadable Factory Service Manual).

http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

 

yes, that is it the dash pot. Thanks for the link to the FSM I am currently in the process of printing it out (literally).

with the spring broken that might explain why the RPM's hesitate slightly when they come back down.

 

The cap and plugs are about 3 years old most conections that I have looked at look good (I will continue to look at all of them and clean them). I can't help but feel with everything in pretty good shape that it is something else. I will due diligence and check everything mentioned so far.

What would cause a car to idle perfectly and allow you to rev it up but when you try to drive it she wants to lose power buck and stall?

 

All the things we've mentioned.

 

I will get to work on these things and get back to everyone thanks for the help

Glad to be back in the Z club!

 

If it seems starved for fuel it probably is. Check your fuel pressure between the engine bay filter and the fuel rail. You should have 36 psi even under high revs. Study that fsm, it's the most important tool you have.

 

Update-
The weather has prevented me from doing anything with the fuel pump ( I work outside) but I did find that the Vac line to the CSV was cracked and I replaced it. Until I reinstall the fuel pump I will not know if that was the fix or not.

 

make sure you put one of those clear fram fuel filters between the tank and pump, that helps alot as well.

 

Read the lable on those clear filters. Some of them will not allow for the higher fuel flow of an efi engine.