New to the forum and z cars. Wasn't quite ready for a project but this fell into my lap after my brother decided he did have time. One owner 74 260 that has been sitting in storage since 1990.

Just reinstalled the gas tank after cleaning the inside and got it running. But now the transmission is not doing anything when placed in gear. No forward or reverse.

Any thoughts?

 

Welcome to the forum!

I've got a thread running on a major 260Z restoration project here: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...project-37922/

From the looks of your car, you have the late model 260Z. If you don't already know, the 260Z was a 1974 only car (sort of) with two variations, the early and late models. Some folk will call the late model a 1975, others call it a late 74. Whatever.

You can think of the late model as an early 280Z body with a 260Z L26 motor and crappy flat-top carbs. That will help you figure things out when you purchase parts.

Download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your car. You can find it at XenonS30

I suggest you get manuals for both the 260Z (the one on the web-site is for the early model car) and the 1975 280Z.

Now for your question, first of all we need to know if this is a manual or automatic transmission car.

If it's a manual, do you get any pressure on the clutch pedal?

If it's automatic, I can't really help (zero mechanical experience with automatics) but hopefully someone else will chime in.

 

Thanks.

Knowing the type of transmission would help. It's a 4 speed manual.

I have downloaded the service manuals and they've helped. I've replaced the:
- Front wheel bearings
- New rotors, pads, rubber brake lines and calipers
- Master and Slave clutch cylinders
- Replaced the electric fuel pump, filter and most of the rubber gas lines

I thought I had a early 74 based on the 4/74 date code from what I've read.

 

Looking at the photo again, you're right. I confused your bumpers with the larger ones that are like the ones on the 280Z. I also couldn't see the combo lights on the front. On the later model they're in the grill. Your date code confirms it is an early 260Z for sure.

Ok, back to your four speed manual tranny. Looks like you've got some hands on experience.

Are you sure the clutch is engaging/disengaging? If it's fried or just worn out, you'll likely get the symptom of no-go as it won't grab the flywheel surface. If, with the engine running, you can change gears without the clutch pedal depressed, I'd bet on a clutch problem.

Do you know why the PO parked it so many years ago?

 

Not sure if the clutch is engaging, but the fork is moving when the pedal is pressed/released. I'm hoping it's just the clutch. Didn't think a clutch could ever be that cooked to not grab at all.
The transmission shifts without the pedal being depressed.

The children of the previous owner didn't say why it was placed in storage.
All I know is that the previous owner was a female and a teacher.

 

Yes, they can be that cooked.

Looks like you're going to have to drop the tranny no matter what. Keep us posted!

 

Dropped the transmission this weekend and the clutch was toast. Paper thin. The springs look like they just started to touch the flywheel.

There's a gouge in the flywheel. Should I just get another flywheel or try to resurface the one I have?
It's not deep but there's definitely a groove.

 

Glad you're making some progress! You'll be driving your Z before mine is ready.

I've got very little experience in this area. But ... if you post a photo of the gouge in the flywheel, someone else with some real expertise should chime in soon with a recommendation.

 

Sorry for the lack of updates but summers been busy.

Turns out that the flywheel was not as bad as it felt. Once I removed it, it was clutch material melted on to the flywheel. Had the flywheel resurfaced and it was fine.

Jump forward several months...

Yesterday, I had it on the road. Moved it to my house.

It was the first time it was on the road in 25 years.

One problem I'm trying to figure out is the lack of power going up hills. It sort of just runs out of power. After searching the web, looks like a possible lack of gas to the carbs.

I got new plugs, wires and cap rotor coming today. Ordered before road testing. Don't think any of those pieces will address the issue.

 

Hey congrats on driving your treasure!

Replacing your plugs, wires and cap rotor may not help with your issue but since they're over 25 years old, it's something you should do anyway. You now won't have to consider any of them to be the source of problems (fingers crossed, sometimes even new parts suck).

While you're at it, replace your fuel filter too. Don't do what I did though. I was at the local auto parts store and saw a rack with an inline transparent fuel filter on it. Knowing I had to replace mine, I grabbed it and installed it on my car. Mine has only been on the road for about two weeks now and I'm compiling a growing list of things that need to be addressed. One was a kind of surging that would sometimes happen, even at idle. During a more recent visit to the same store I noticed the rack that had my filter on it had a sign above it saying "Small Engine", i.e. lawn mowers and such. Ooops, got a more appropriate filter while the counter folk . Surging gone, go figure.

 

New electronic fuel pump, new fuel filter, new soft lines. Mechanical seems to be pumping. I did a test from the mechanical pump into a plastic gas can and was working.

Leaning towards the carbs. They are flat tops and I took the tops off and cleaned what I could but didn't go any further because I didn't want to remove the carbs for now.

Thinking about getting a set of dome tops and rebuilding. Would they bolt on to the intake?

Thanks for the info.

 

I replaced my flats with dome tops. For the most part, they bolt right on, i.e. you don't need a different intake.

If you do get an a set of dome tops, get the spacers and studs that go with the dome tops as they are different between the two styles. I think you can make the flat-top studs work but if you're into aesthetics, change them. If you don't change the spacers, the alignment for your throttle linkage will be off.

I turned in a set of dome tops (came with my parts car) to Z-Therapy for core credit. That left me with the correct spacers and studs so I was lucky.

I'm very happy with the remanufactured dome tops BTW. One less thing to worry about.

Oh yeah, I ended up futzing with the choke cable linkage when I changed the carbs as well. Just a little bending and adjusting as they are a little different in the way they attach.

 

I was thinking the lack of power may be related to loss of compression, due to searching on the internet. I checked the compression and everything seemed to check out there. I got readings in the 160-170 range.
I checked for vacuum leaks using the carb cleaner technique. I didn't find any leaks. So I was standing over the car and decided to spray some carb cleaner in the carbs as the car was running. While spraying in the rear carb the idle stumbled. Spraying in the front carb caused the idle to speed up.
The google searches started...
I found a 7 page thread on some forum and they described the same problem. That led me to checking the float levels in the carbs and the front carb is not showing any fuel in the window. I can't believe I didn't check those before, I looked but due to them being dirty, hard to see and the car running I assumed they were fine.
I have the 74 flat tops with the integrated float bowls on the bottom. I ordered two rebuild kits for $14 for both on Amazon. For now the plan is to pull the front carb and rebuild so I can see how the car runs. There's a good amount of body work to do before I can justify the round top swap.

One question I have, does anyone know what I can remove from my carb setup? I found a lot of info for the 73 flat tops that have the separate float bowls but not much for the 74s. Probably a waste of time from what everyone says but want to clean it up under there. (would this be a question for another thread?)

 

Started to pull the front carb last night. It's pretty tight getting to the nuts. I got the top two and the bottom right loose. Ready for removal with fingers. Any recommendations on what would make it easier? It seems like the lower front nut can't be spun with a wrench because it hits both sides. I'm sure I'll get it but didn't know if there was a secret to getting these off.

 

I had the same issue. Got a quarter turn at a time if I was lucky. The secret is patience I think.

 

Got the carb off. Actually easier than I thought. The grand kids helping probably made it seem more difficult.
The rebuild kits were delivered today.

Thinking if just plugging the coolant lines from the gooseneck and not running through carbs and intake. I read somewhere that that this helps keep the carbs cooler because of the exhaust being right below. But that doesn't affect the round tops? I'd like to pull the lines from the bottom of the carbs for a cleaner/simpler look.

 

LOL about the grand kids. Been there, done that!

There's been quite a few discussions about the coolant lines and the flat top carbs. Turns out they're mostly there to get the carbs up to temp faster. Go over to ZCar.com and do a search for some words of wisdom from "Tony D" and others. There are definitely pros and cons to doing this.

That said, I personally pulled off my coolant lines and went to the round tops on my 260Z. I also have headers coated with a ceramic paint and am lucky enough to have a factory heat shield (slightly modified because of the headers) between the headers and the round tops.

I've only had this car on the road for a couple of weeks now and it's running almost OK (that means it's driveable but needs work). Can't say any of the issues I'm addressing are heat related though and it is Summer in Tucson so there's been plenty of opportunity.

 

Good info over there. I'm going to hook up the coolant lines.

Does the PCV hose part#11828-s30 fit the 260z? Looks the same but can't seem to find the part for the 260z.
PCV Hose for 01/1971 to 06/1972 - S30 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Or is there another option?

Thanks

 

Can't tell you for sure. I was lucky enough to have a decent one already. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

 

I put a header on my '70 a few years ago and noticed how close the #1 was to the intake manifold. I questioned MSA about it and they said they never had heard of a problem since they are all made in a jig fixture. I took a laser temp gage and after warm up the intake manifold was a whopping 240 degrees. There wasn't enough room for the heat shield so I sent it back. Bought a different header, wrapped it and had room for the shield. Cooling the carbs with 180+ degree water is not my idea of a cold air intake.
Lose the stock air cleaner.

 

Got both carbs back on and found the PCV hose at datsunstore.com and it came Friday.

The car is running pretty good right now. After taking it around the block a few times I parked it and the heater hose return from the fire wall is leaking. I was planning to swap them out anyway, but would have liked to do it at my leisure. I'm going to do all the hose on the passenger side. I don't understand the use of all these reducer hoses. Looks like 5/8 to 7/8, well not really a reducer.

 

Best prices I've found for hoses
240Z Heater Hose, 260Z Heater Hose, 280Z Heater Hose

 

Took it to work on Tuesday after a couple shake down runs in the neighborhood. It ran well, even sat in a little traffic on the way home.

Pulled the non working tach and been looking for some ideas on swapping in something that works. Not sure I totally understand the 280 swap. Would like to not swap wires. I also seen something about a autometer swap but didnt see how that would work with the signals, if it even does allow use of the turn signal indicators.
Found a post on here about replacing the little potted module in the tach but didn't have enough info on components and location. Mhy tach just sits at zero. I did move once but was just jumping between 3&4 K.