Still having 76 280z trans probs... please help
01-28-2004 | 11:02 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Still having 76 280z trans probs... please help
Don't know if I posted my question here or another forum but I have a 76 280z 2+2.
The master cylender got low on fluid and the clutch got real mushy. I filled the resevior, bled the line till no air came out. Clutch worked fine. Backed out of my garage then put it in 1st to pull it back in. Car seems to be stuck in neutral now.
The slave cylender works and moves the clutch arm back and forth. Like I said, it worked when I backed out.
Now as it sits, I can leave the car in gear (any gear including reverse) and push it or start it with the clutch out and car in gear.
Again, it's like it's stuck in neutral. Starange.
I'm thinking it could be some sort of linkage inside the trans like a roll pin or maybe the clutch fork?
Quick question...
The 4 speed is in 3 sections, bell housing, gear box and the rear end of the trans where the shift lever goes in. Can you remove just the rear of the trans without to much probs?
I'm not really familuar with trans or clutches. I can manage to pull the trans or parts of it but have never put a trans back in, especialy the clutch part.
I know I'm gonna have to pull the thing one way or another.
Machanics I spoke to in this town say it's probly just a little pin and the shifting isn't moving the forks inside the housing.
What do you think?
I really need help or suggestions on this..
Thanks in advance
Z er
The master cylender got low on fluid and the clutch got real mushy. I filled the resevior, bled the line till no air came out. Clutch worked fine. Backed out of my garage then put it in 1st to pull it back in. Car seems to be stuck in neutral now.
The slave cylender works and moves the clutch arm back and forth. Like I said, it worked when I backed out.
Now as it sits, I can leave the car in gear (any gear including reverse) and push it or start it with the clutch out and car in gear.
Again, it's like it's stuck in neutral. Starange.
I'm thinking it could be some sort of linkage inside the trans like a roll pin or maybe the clutch fork?
Quick question...
The 4 speed is in 3 sections, bell housing, gear box and the rear end of the trans where the shift lever goes in. Can you remove just the rear of the trans without to much probs?
I'm not really familuar with trans or clutches. I can manage to pull the trans or parts of it but have never put a trans back in, especialy the clutch part.
I know I'm gonna have to pull the thing one way or another.
Machanics I spoke to in this town say it's probly just a little pin and the shifting isn't moving the forks inside the housing.
What do you think?
I really need help or suggestions on this..
Thanks in advance
Z er
01-29-2004 | 08:22 PM
#2
I have a present for you...
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,695
From: dayton, nevada usa
it still sounds like your clutch is bad, but whether it's your clutch or trans the trans has to come out. Might as well put in a 5 speed if the trans is bad. A 5 speed up to 83' will bolt right in.
01-30-2004 | 09:00 AM
#4
The Evil Twin
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,296
From: Seattle, WA
For some reason I think the mechanics you spoke to are not on the right track...
So, its basically like the clutch never engages at all. With the engine running you can go through the gears without ever pressing the clutch pedal down, correct?
So maybe just something happened to the clutch slave cylinder. Maybe there was a problem before or a previous owner had adjusted the clutch pedal arm forward to make up for some air in the clutch master cylinder... now that you bled the system the slave cylinder is out too far and not totally releasin the fork inside the tranmission. I say look into that more. Look at the adjustments on the pedal itself and make sure you're allowing the master cylinder to be fully disengaged. I did some work on a friend's 280Z recently like this.
So, its basically like the clutch never engages at all. With the engine running you can go through the gears without ever pressing the clutch pedal down, correct?
So maybe just something happened to the clutch slave cylinder. Maybe there was a problem before or a previous owner had adjusted the clutch pedal arm forward to make up for some air in the clutch master cylinder... now that you bled the system the slave cylinder is out too far and not totally releasin the fork inside the tranmission. I say look into that more. Look at the adjustments on the pedal itself and make sure you're allowing the master cylinder to be fully disengaged. I did some work on a friend's 280Z recently like this.
01-30-2004 | 11:15 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
sounds resonable however
like I said, it backed out of the grage fine, clutch worked great like normal, the when I put it in first to pull it back in, Nothing, it was not engaging at all.
You're right about putting it in any gear with the clutch out and the car still running.
I've never had this problem on any car so it's all new to me. lol
I will look into adjustment first b4 pulling the trans tho!
That would be nice if it was something that simple
You're right about putting it in any gear with the clutch out and the car still running.
I've never had this problem on any car so it's all new to me. lol
I will look into adjustment first b4 pulling the trans tho!
That would be nice if it was something that simple
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