For those who want a little more power from their N/A cars and don't want to swap in an L28ET here are a few cam specs including the factory 1982 N/A cam. As stated, if you plan to run a cam bigger than a stage III you will want to upgrade the fuel system as you can run into problems from the stock setup. With the larger than stock cam(s) you may also benefit from a 60mm TB and a Header with a free flowing exhaust.


The stock 1982 N/A camshaft has a Lift(In/Ex): .289/.289 and a Duration (In/Ex): 219/219.

"We would not recommend using a camshaft higher than the stage 3 due to the fuel shortages that will accrue with the stock fuel system. The main differences between the different camshaft stages 1,2,3 is going to be the power band and the idle. The higher the camshaft stage is the higher the power band will be. The same goes for the idle as well. With the higher power band the camshaft idle with be more rough."

"Performance Cams"

Stage I Cam Grind: 17030. Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. Duration(In/Ex): 260/260.
Characteristics: Moderate idle, good power 1500-5000 RPM.

Stage II Cam Grind: 17033. Lift(In/Ex): .480/.480. Duration(In/Ex): 274/274.
Characteristics: Good idle, power range 2000-6000 RPM. Great slalom grind, works well with stock carbs or triple Webers.

Stage III Cam Grind: 17034. Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. Duration(In/Ex): 270/280.
Characteristics: Rougher idle, excellent performance. Pulls hard from 3000-6500 RPM.

"Race Cams"

Stage IV Cam Grind: 17036. Lift(In/Ex): .495/.495. Duration(In/Ex): 290/290.
Characteristics: Rough idle. Midrange and top end power cam for well setup car. Drag or track racing.

Stage V Cam Grind: 17038. Lift(In/Ex): .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300.
Characteristics: Excellent road race power, 4000-8500 RPM.

Stage VI Cam Grind: 17039. Lift(In/Ex): .620/.624. Duration(In/Ex): 304/318.
Characteristics: Competition only. Power from 4500 to 8500 RPM.

Information provided by:

Motorsport Auto
1139 West Collins Ave
Orange CA 92867
Ph.(800)633-6331
Fax(800)321-3777
www.zcarparts.com

 

Here's MSA's store web page: http://www.thezstore.com/

Turbo Cam I: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-0921

Turbo Cam II: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-0922

Cam Kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-2000

NA Cam I: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-2001

NA Cam II: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-2002

NA Cam III: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM01/10-2003

 

Since I did a cam swap today, I thought I'd add to this thread & explain the steps of removing / swapping a cam.

First make yourself a wood piece 1" wide by about 8" long to shove between the timing chain to keep the tensioner tight. If you let the chain loose & drop it all the way down in the timing cover, you will have to remove the cover, & reset the tensioner, making A LOT more work than needed. To help remove it at the end, drill a hole in the wood piece & thread a wire to yank it out.



Next, PAY ATTENTION TO THE CAM SPROCKET AND CHAIN LOCATIONS!!! Use some white out if you need, to make sure you reinstall it all correctly.



Remove the rocker retaining springs. Remove the rocker by pressing down on the valve spring and pulling the rocker out to the side (get a buddy to grab the rockers as you press on the spring... it's a biotch to do it by yourself).



With the rockers out, you'd think it's time to pull the cam right? Well... The sweet lil radiator is in the way:



No... don't go pulling the radiator. Just jack up the engine on the oil pan so the engine tilts up & back:



WA-LA!



Install is just the opposite of removal. One thing... to get the cam to align w/ the sprocket again, use a crescent wrench on the boxed ***** of the cam to turn it. Also use a flathead screwdriver to pull the sprocket onto the cam dowel.



Now, before you go burning off around town to test out the cam, REMEMBER TO ADJUST THE CAM TO ROCKER CLEARANCE!!! Do it to cold specs, then you can come back when it's warm & readjust to hot specs:

 

always use hardwood when building that piece of wood, other types (like a fir 2x4 will leave massive splinters) there are instuctions in the fsm and haynes for this as well if you forget!!

 

all you did was jack teh gnine? didnt have to remove any tranny supports or w/e? nothing? just jack it? on the oil pan? lol

 

couldn't you jsut remove the cam towers and take the cam out that way?

 

Nope... if you remove the cam towers, you loose the correct tower alignment. From the factory / machine shop the towers are line honed so that the cam doesn't wear crooked.

 

didnt answer my question nismo.... aint i good enough for yah?

 

Ah... I thought you were being a smart ***.

Yep, just put a jack at the front of the oil pan & cranked it up slowly until I could slide the cam over the radiator.

 

hmm, im surprised the engine will tilt up that much without removing any supportive device. i really am.

 

Here's some info on the stock cams. From my research (and Bleach's / Shady's) on the interwebnet, it seems that the stock n/a L28 cam would be a mild turbo cam upgrade.

Camshaft lingo (so the spreadsheet makes since): http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/camshaft.html

 

Since Nismo directed me to this thread, I'm going to add to it. One thing I was curious about. What does the whole MSA performance cam kit come with? Would that possibly be a good alternative for my conversion? I'm debating maybe going with stage II. Since it would retain a relatively decent idle and have a broader powerband. Assuming what's listed for stage II applies to the Turbo as well

 

Complete cam kits usually come with: Cam, Rockers, Springs, Retainers, & Lash Pads:

http://www.thezstore.com/store/merch...ory_Code=PEM01



That won't solve your P90A lifter problem.

 

You all ever hear of Colt cams?

Just a Link for more options.

http://xenonzcar.com/store/catalog/i...cPath=23_28_29

and one for some other Specifications.

http://xenons130.com/cams.html

 

two words ISKY CAMS!!!

 

Alright so I'd still need the solid lifters and the timeserts? That wouldn't be bad though. I may just get the whole set. It might be a good alternative. All that's required is the solid lifters and the timeserts.

 

i have a colt cam in my car. as he is local and a datsun guy i used his and have been very pleased. the only thing with his is, its a regrind, so you need thicker lash pads. no real biggie tho, thing pulls good all the way to 7500, and thats his efi street cam. his race cams are nuts. what cam you install nismo??? did you go with the n/a cam or go aftermarket?

 

The n/a cam... but I discovered the rod knock right after this swap, so I never got to test it out. Gotta wait till Spring now.

 

I may go N/A cam then. That doesn't sound bad and could be alot cheaper. At the moment I may just wait until I find an S30 for my L28ET and pull apart that motor.