Thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forum/showth...2392#post82392

Since GeoCities was shutdown this link is kaput! Site Link #1: http://www.geocities.com/jfairladyz/...?1144191577198

This one will continue to work until I'm kaput! Site Link #2: http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/JsAFMRebuild/

Please download the MS Word .doc attachment here: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/attac...2&d=1265261823

 

If you have not performed this procedure on your AFM... YOU NEED TO.
It made more difference to my car than the thousand dollars worth of new parts that preceeded it. DO IT NOW!!!! If your car has any weird symptoms at all, start here.

Rod.

 

has a lot more pull, huh?

I had a Nissan mechanic do mine when I had the n/a setup... indeed a world of difference. After I saw him do it, I did it to all the other Z's I had.

 

Well I thought I knew had to post pics. Anybody know how to post pics so they show up in the body of the post, not as attachments and not as links? I've got links posted up so you can click those for now, but I don't know how to make em pics.

To the admins, the IMG code is in the post. I don't know if you posses the ability to edit our posts but if you do then you can go ahead and modify mine so that the pics show up where I've got the IMG codes.

Other than that I'm at a loss. I can post attachments and pics in my sigs but not this. Is it cause the thread is already too long? I know I'm maxed out on characters and can't type anymore on it.

 

Hmmmm,

Rod.

 

mein Auto ist schnell und reizvoll!!!

What the Hell?

Maybe I should just break it down into two smaller posts and see if that does the trick

 

Well HE said the IMG was on but the pics still aren't coming up in the AFM thread. I guess I'll have to let him know about that one again. This time in the feedback forum

 

Nice article. I've always bent the wiper arm to move to a different track but it makes more sense to scooch to board over instead. Very cool.

Just a quick comment/question. By letting off of the spring tension, the flap will open further with a smaller amount of air flow, no? It seems to me that will cause the ECU to dump more fuel than it should. You'll be running rich.

I don't think you can make adjustments to the spring tension without messing up the air/fuel ratio. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

You're right. But that's why I put for performance and not for stock specs. The main goal of that was not however meant to get the car to run richer. THat was a side effect. The original point was that it helped WOT airflow as the door would open more easily and not try to resist the airflow. THis not only smooths the air but also allows it a slightly larger path to travel with less resistance. Now I live in a non emissions part of the country and because I can not yet verify how much of an effect this has on emissions output I can't recommend everybody give that part a go. I know of atleast one person who tried that part of the mod with bad results and had to adjust back to stock. But that's why I tell you to make the reference marks. Just in case

 

Exactly how much richer can i expect the car to run by moving the notch 5 places? Im loving the idea of more power without having to spend money but, if im gonna lose a noticeable amount of mpg or engine smoothness then im not so sure. ah who am i kidding the car idles like a naked girl on a trampoline and my mpg sucks already

 

Lemme give ya a lil hint here

more rich = more fuel = less mpg

as for the "5 notches," I would suggest getting an air / fuel gauge & adjust it according to that, rather than just moving it 5 notches.

 

It doesn't increase it much. I haven't noticed a decrease in mpg. I'm sure there has been but it's so small that I just haven't noticed it. An AF guage would be the best way to go though. But the point of loosening the spring is not to enrichen the fuel mixture. It's meant to help airflow but taking some of the resistance out of the door pushing back against the air stream. The enrichment is just a side affect. A welcome one for me as I don't have to worry about emissions if it even affects it enough. I plan to test it when I finally get around to ordering the last part of the gauge I'm building.

 

I live in pensacola,fla home of no emissions so I honestly don't care what it does to that extent, I just don't feel like prematurely fouling plugs, dumping even more gas into my tractor, and etc. I read the article all the way through liked the idea and intend on proceeding with this little project tomorrow, I have an extra AFM from my 79 that I'll use since it's kinda sticky and that way I can finish it all while still keeping my Daily Driver driveable. Thanks for the replies guys

 

Yeah I have no problem with over enrichment. I have a device in my car right now that allows me to enrich the fuel mixture on the fly. I've run that pretty rich and not had any problems. My only concern I had was with over enrichment when the car was cold but that was quickly dismissed by the fact that it's not happening. I did however have to lean out my idle enrichment screw because I had mine adjusted to full enrichment, so it wasn't at stock anyways. Otherwise the car had a problem with it's cold idle. If your screw is still at stock position then that wouldn't even be a factor. As soon as I can finish the A/F gauge on my enrichment box I'll be able to test it and let you guys know how that one goes.

 

lame lame lame, I did it an afterwards my car wouldn't idle right and would eventually stall, no throttle response nothing, im not sure if the AFM is broken because the car was hydrolocked by previous owner

 

crucial . . .
maybe try and go throught it again?

 

alright, maybe this procedure will fix my problems ive been having, lately, when i start my car up, it would start to run, start chugging, and eventually die, it will do this a couple times, warm or cold, and maybe the third or fourt turn of the key, it would start to run again, like nothing happened, is that some of the symptoms that where fixed whey you did your AFM>??

 

Gab, maybe you should check your battery. I did the AFM rebuild but that didnt fix my problem, I than got a new battery and the startup problem went away. Now I have an idle problem! lol well just check batt incase.

 

I be confused

 

makes sense to me, its just like when your alternator dies, your batter is giving the charge for the sparks, and if there is no power to the sparks, it starts to chug and die...its doing the same thing when my alternator went out...but if it was the battery, wouldnt it not turn after the fourth time turning the key? well...ill give the AFM cleaning tomorrow....see if thats it...if not...no biggie...i can just undo what i did...

 

usually when the battery is dying, the car won't start, then die... start then die... once there isn't enough power to crank the car, that's it. Car batteries aren't like AA nickle cadium rechargeable batteries, that when left alone for a minute, they jump back up.

Long story short... if the car starts w/o needing to jump it, it's not the battery... maybe charging system or wires, but not battery.

If you REALLY think it is the battery, then pull it & get it checked... or look at your volt-meter on the dash.

 

i dont REALLY think it is the battery...the symptoms dont make sense if it was the battery

 

Updated the write up. It's a link to a webpage now but it's a lot better than before. More pics and descriptions. If anybody who tries it with the new write up notices any mistakes please let me know so I can correct it.

 

It's telling me that the site is currently unavailable, Im assuming this is probably just a current issue that either you or geocities will work out?

 

In the event it is unavailable again in the future, I'm mirroring it here:

http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/JsAFMRebuild/