I didnt see it mentioned so you'll also need the distributor from a Z31. It doesn't matter if it's turbo or not. To be more specific, you need the innards of the distributor. The disc and sensor. Those just swap directly into your L28ET distributor.

 

so I need to get my hands on the distributor so I can take it apart to get the disc out and put it in with the sensor in my 280 distributor?

 

sorry dumb question I got it. Oh and another thing am I going to have to modify the stock 280zx harness to accomediate the Z31 MAF?

 

To do the swap to the Z31 setup, you'll need the following as a minimum:
-1 turbo ecu from a z31
-1 maf from a z31
-1 chopper wheel from a z31
-some extra wiring pins for the ecu harness, or just cut the ecu harness from the z31 and use those plugs instead, they're fresher and IMO the materials are better than the stock 280zx harness material. My stock harness had issues of the wires getting pinched, which in essence would make the car run like crap. I had to bend them a certain way so the car would run fine, but it progressively got worse till I swapped connectors. I've never had that same issue once with the z31 connectors.

There's a huge write up on hybridz by Afshin highlighting the installation of the z31 ecu and maf. The installation is pretty straight forward, no real big issues to worry about. Just don't get your wiring mixed up. The SAFC can just be used to adjust your fuel curve a bit, I'm using it with the stock injectors to boost 12psi with the a/f safely in the low 12's. You can go up to 440cc injectors as a max using the SAFC to trim your curve, but in order to safely boost above 7 psi with the 440's you'll need an MSD BTM to retard the ignition timing. A Z32 maf would be a good idea the time you upgrade the injectors too. The stock z31 maf maxes out it's flow capabilities somewhere near 300hp.

 

So is this all I need for the distrib then? I picked this from a VG30 in an 80's Maxima today... no good Z31's there.

 

Man, to think. I could have had all these parts or most of them. I've got a Z31 MAF sitting out in my garage. I could have hung out to the distributor and everything.

 

NismoPick, all you need is the metal wheel. Exchange it out with the one in your distributor. The sensor is the same so unless yours is going bad, you won't need it. Just be sure to orient the wheel correctly or the idle will be bad.

 

While researshing the shiz out of the 280zx Z31 ecu swap, I found this important "How To" on HybridZ:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...z31+conversion

 

Yep, that's the write up I was referring to. It has pretty much all the info you'll need to do the swap. Should take about an hour to do it all. Anyway, I swapped in my old 370cc injectors and installed the BTM just to get acquainted on how it (the BTM) worked. So far so good, I have the retard **** set at 2* of retardation per psi of boost and a start point of 2 psi, and it works fine at 11psi. Kinda weird setting the fuel map with (-) values though. To get the Z to idle right I have it at about -27 under low throttle situations. There is a slight flat spot issue that I need to iron out, but for the most part I'm happy with the way things are going so far.

 

hmmmmmmm i got and idea !!!!! i read the sticky !!!Purchased parts: 1984 Z31 turbo ECU, MAF, any 84-89 300zx crank angle sensor/chopper wheel (the wheel has a top and bottom, do not reverse or car won’t idle properly) and MAF and ECU connectors with several inches of wire attached.
Also need wiring diagrams of both cars.


welll since im doing some work on my friends car is a 1984 300zx turbo and shes getting a donor car another 300zx turbo i should have all the parts off the donor car to make this prodject really work huh ? ill try to remeber all the parts i need when i start dismantling the other car ... right on !!!

 

Yes, that's about all the parts you'll need to do the swap. It's not too difficult, just keep the wiring straight or else that's when it becomes a nightmare. Anyway, I'll post up my settings for the SAFC that I have currently, running ~12psi with the MSD BTM and ~43psi of fuel on 370cc injectors. I'll do it once I get back from school. Just a note though, every car is different so even these settings can't be used as an end all be all. Some cars need more fuel, some less, it all depends. The fuel settings for the low throttle map should be perfectly fine though to get your car to idle and run around town as long as you don't boost. I'll be swapping in a Z32 MAF soon, I'm just waiting on my MAF adapter to arrive.

 

As I stated earlier today, here's the settings I have for now. They'll probably change once the Z32 maf goes on, and when I find some injector clips for my 440cc injectors that are collecting dust. Anyway, I didn't know if an excel spreadsheet would show up so I'll just type it out...

MSD BTM: set at 2* retardation per psi of boost. Retardation onset set at 0psi.

Throttle points for SAFCII: low 30% hi 70%

Ne Points: 1000, 1600, 2200, 2800, 3400, 4000, 4400, 4800, 5200, 5600, 6000, 6400.

Low throttle fuel setting (goes in order of the Ne Pts.): -31, -30, -30, -30, -30, -29, -29, -28, -28, -27, -27.

Hi throttle fuel setting: -28, -28, -24, -24, -12, +14, +26, +26, +30, +33, +33, +33.

That's what I have so far, and with that I'm switching to 87 octane for now and running stock boost since crappy 91 is now at $3.15 a gallon and it's cutting into my pizza and ramen funds haha.

 

ya pizza and ramen noodles!!!!

 

This is one thread that prolly shouldn't be *****'d upon....


Hey Lifegrdude... did you use the Z31 FPR? I was reading the hybridz sticky & the guy said there is a fuel pump shutoff wire hooked to the fpr...

 

NismoPick, I am using an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. However, the Z31 setup can be used with the stock regulator. The FPR in the installation directions is referring to the fuel pump relay. Yeah, I didn't like how the author used the same abbreviation as a the fuel pressure regulator. It was confusing. If I recall correctly, it's a connector that has a green wire and a black wire underneath the foam padding in the hatch. I upgraded my fuel pump wiring so I completely bypassed this step. When I used the stock gauge wiring on the Walbro pump, it fried in a few days, the wires were hot enough to the touch and were black when I stripped away some insulation. I'm using 8 gauge wiring for the pump mounted to a separate switch.

 

Yeah the stock wiring isn't nearly a low enough gauge. I also rewired my pump with some 8 guage wiring and a new aftermarket relay.My pump now runs straight off the batter with it's own inline fuse.

 

Yeah for anyone running a higher flowing pump, or even asking more out of the stocker, you should upgrade the wiring. Anyway, NismoPick, I was looking through some of my old notes on the cpu and here's a page I had saved for the fuel pump relay issue. It's a pdf from JWT, look at page 6, the info is there in case the hybridz writeup isn't clear.

http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf...%20UPGRADE.PDF

 

i got a high flow high volume pump from napa's fuel pump catologe,its listed as high performance pump. it pumps up to 75 psi and 900 liters per hour, no wiring problem. and costs only 90 cdn.

 

Damn, 900lph That'll flow enough to feed the thirstiest of engines.

 

yep mines thirsty, but not that thirsty, it just had the psi range i wanted incase i needed it after i do an ecu swap.

 

You gotta part number on that sucker? I'm getting plenty from my pump, but others might want to know how to get ahold of that thing. That's really inexpensive for something that flows so much too.

 

Stock Z31 injectors come in many flavors.

Turbo and non-turbo with top feed.

Turbo and non-turbo with side feed.

The fuel rails are different between top and side feed.

The type of O2 sensor signaling and type are different and the **** hits the fan around 1986.

 

The injectors from the Z31 that differ from the 280zx injectors are the ones that got the recall work done. Other wise, they are the same and you can interchange them.

The o2 sensor changed in the turbo models in 86 from a zirconia to a titania o2 sensor. The n/a's still used the zirconia setup. If you want to have JWT program your ecu or larger injectors/different timing/etc, pick up an 88-89 naturally aspirated ecu, not a turbo ecu. Don't forget you'll need to wire in resistors for the fuel injecotors in order to use the 88-89 ecu. You can get the resistors from either Radioshack, or grab them from an 81zxt.

 

I see 1984 and 1985 using top feed injectors and 86 to 89 using side feed.

Also............jwt specifies the turbo ecu for 88, 89 turbos being the best one because they are 16bit computers versus the earlier 8 bit computers.

I still don't like them using saturated drivers to drive peak and hold injectors.

 

It's a been awhile since I even looked at this thread, but anyway, I'm going to be installing some 440cc injectors in the near future. Hopefully I'll be able to tune them successfully. The 370s worked great, even when I had a minor boost spike to 16psi one night during some fun runs with friends. I ran a max of 14.7 (1.0 bar) with no problems under boost except for a little bogging in the midrange. The final specs that I used for the SAFC on the 370s is a little different from my previous posted specs.

Btw the ecu JWT specifies is a non turbo 88-89 ecu if you want to upgrade. They are still 16 bit, but they read off the same 22mm o2 sensor that our 280zxt does. If you use the turbo 88-89 ecu, you will have to find a way to integrate the 3 wire, 17mm o2 sensor of the 300zxt into the harness and get it to work. Ask Ben at JWT and he will confirm this as well.