Now all of this information is verified through research and not through actual measurements taken by myself. I kept all reference material and any errors you find are on the part of the person's I gathered my information from. If you have a dispute to any of these numbers please let me know so I can change them.

ENGINE
Datsun used two engine castings in the 280zx: The N42(79-80) and the F54 (81-83)
All castings were coded as the L28E/T. Here's the breakdown: L- engine code or family, 28- engine displacment, E- electronic fuel injection, T- stands for Turbo and is only on the turbo engines. All Nissan engines break down this way.
Engine Type: SOHC 12 Valve (2 per cylinder) Inline 6 cylinder, Iron Block
Both castings shared the same bore and stroke at: 86mm x 79mm
Displacement was 2753 cubic centimeters (which rounds up to 2.8 liters)
Engine Code: L28E/T (L is the engine code, 28 is engine size, E is electronic fuel injection, and T is turbo on models so equipped)
Block Casting 1979-1980: N42 / 1981-1983: F54 (including turbo)
N42
Pistons: Dished
Compression Ratio: 8.3:1
HorsePower: 140HP @ 5200 RPM
Torque: 149lb/ft @ 4000 RPM
Factory Octane Requirements: 87 (US)
F54 Non Turbo
Pistons: Flat Top
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1
Horsepower: 145HP
Torque: 155LBFT
Factory Octane Requirements: 87 (US)
F54 Turbo
Pistons: Dished
Compression Ratio: 7.4:1
HorsePower: 180HP @ 5600 RPM
Torque: 203lb/ft @ 2800 RPM
Factory Octane Requirements: 87 (US)
Despite a common misconception, the F54 used in the turbo cars is NOT stronger than the F54 used in the non turbo cars. The ONLY difference was the Pistons. There were variations in the F54 castings, but they were the same for NA and Turbo blocks. The F54 is however considered supperior over the N42 blocks.

CYLINDER HEAD
Datsun used 3 1/2 different head casting for the 280zx. I'll explain the half part.
I'll break it down by engine code:
N42: N47 (79-80) round or "diamond" exhaust ports with liners

F54: P79 (81-83 non turbo) round exhaust ports with liners

F54: P90 (81-82 turbo) square exhaust ports, no liners

F54: P90A (83 turbo) same as P90 but this head used hydraulic lifters.
All are aluminum non-crossflow design.
Valve Diameters: Intake:1.73" (44mm) Exhaust: 1.38" (35mm)
Valve Length (N47): Intake: 4.53" (115.2mm) Exhaust: 4.57" (116.0mm)
Valve Length (P79, P90/A): Intake: 4.45" (113.1mm) Exhaust: 4.48" (113.9mm)

TRANSMISSION
Datsun used 4 different transmissions in the 280zx. 3 manuals and 1 autmatic.
The 5 speed used in the 80-83 years were all identicle to each other except for the fact that the 1980 model used a different 5th gear ratio.
Automatic (79-83): 1st Gear: 2.458, 2nd: 1.458, 3rd: 1.000, Reverse: 2.182
Manual 4 Speed (79 only): 1st Gear: 3.321, 2nd: 2.077, 3rd: 1.308, 4th: 1.000, Reverse: 3.382
Manual Nissan 5 Speed (79 only): 1st Gear: 3.321, 2nd: 2.077, 3rd: 1.308, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.864, Revers: 3.382
The 4 and 5 speeds used in the 79 model were virtually the same with the exception of one having an OD 5th gear.
Manual Nissan 5 Speed (80 only): 1st Gear: 3.062, 2nd: 1.858, 3rd: 1.308, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.773, Reverse: 3.026
Manual Nissan 5 Speed (81-83 non turbo): 1st Gear: 3.062, 2nd: 1.858, 3rd: 1.308, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.745, Reverse: 3.026
The 5 speed used in the 80-83 years were all identicle to each other except for the fact that the 1980 model used a different 5th gear ratio and synchro assemby.
Manual T-5 5 speed (82-83 Turbo): 1st Gear: 3.500, 2nd: 2.144, 3rd: 1.375, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.780, Reverse:

CLUTCH
2 Seater non turbo: 225mm (8.86")
2+2 and Turbo: 240mm (9.45")

DIFFERENTIAL
Datsun used 2 types of diffs: R180 and R200.
R180: 3.545 (79 automatic cars and all 80+ cars with R180), 3.364 (79 manual cars)
R200: 3.364 (79 Deluxe models), 3.700 (79 GL models), 3.545 (all Turbo cars), 3.900 (all 80+ cars with R200).

CHASSIS AND BODY
2+2
Weight: 2915 LBS (1272 kg) (turbo rated at: 3153lbs)
Weight Distribution: 50/50
Width: 66.5" (1690mm)
Height: 51.2" (1300mm)
Wheelbase: 99.2" (2520mm)
Track: Front: 54.9" (1395mm). Rear: 54.7" (1390mm)
2 Seater
Weight: 2804 LBS (1205 kg) (turbo rated at: 3009 lbs)
Weight Distribution: 50/50
Width: 66.5" (1690mm)
Height: 50.8" (1290mm)
Wheelbase: 91.3" (2320mm)
Track: Front: 54.9" (1395mm), Rear: 54.7" (1390mm)

STEERING
Datsun equipped the 280zx with two types of steering systems: Recirculating ball and Rack & Pinion. The 280ZX came in both power and manual steering.
79-83 Manual Steering: Rack & Pinion. 3.5 turns lock to lock.
82-83 non turbo & 81-83 Turbo Power Steering: Rack & Pinsion. 3.2 turns lock to lock.
79-81 non turbo Power Steering: Recirculating Ball. 2.7 turns lock to lock.



Well that's it for the 280ZX. If you have any information or corrections to add to this feel free to post.PM, or email it and I'll be sure to add it to the original thread. This is for reference only and I will not be held liable for the correctness of any information contained in this post. And please, if you do submit information, make sure it is correct. Either by the fact that you have verified it personally or you have the reference information from where you aquired it. Enjoy

 

Those are striped down models. A typical 2 seater weighs in around 2800 and a 2+2 comes in close to 3000lbs. I've been meaning to update those numbers but haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

Recently I have been thinking of stripping my car, but I am just not sure were to start? Where would I see the biggest decrease in weight?

 

The most weight you could strip off would be accessories like AC. Some people take out the PS but thats not really going to save you much weight. It's just a "feel" thing. And when I say AC, I mean the whole shebang, like the condensor too. But I think the biggest weight to be saved is in the bumpers and their support struts. As soon as I finish my current batch of parts I'm going to start working on carbon and Kevlar replacements for those parts. I'm willing to bet that if you took out the AC and replaced the bumpers/supports with a much lighter material then you could get the weight of your car down closer to some of the lighter S30 cars. Also, if you have a 2 seater: Those two storage cubbies behind you seats, you can remove that whole section of your car, even the metal part. This will save you a few lbs. That would probably remove more weight than stripping the rest of your interior.

 

The power steering pump only weighs a few lbs. I mean if ultimate weight savings is what you're after than the PS pump is definitely going to shave a few lbs. I don't have any idea what the rear seat weighs though. As far as why the 280Z weighs more? Not sure. It might not even weigh more. But according to how Nissan rated the weights of those two cars, the 280Z came out heavier. If it is indeed heavier than it could be because with the S130 it designed those extra safety features and other accessories into the chassis. For the S130 they could put the weight where they wanted it, as opposed to the S30 where they had already designed the chassis and instead of redesigning it they just added what was neccessary and what not. Even so, the 280Z is only rated barely over the base 280zx. It's not even 75lbs. I don't remember off hand the exact numbers but it may have not even been 50lbs, so it's not like it was a huge difference. Don't use the 280zx numbers above, I can almost guarantee the ZX didn't actually weigh in at 2600lbs stock.

For further weight savings, if you have a steering gear box, then a R&P unit will probably weigh less. And even if the R&P setup isn't lighter, it is located lower in the chassis so the weight is in a much better place. Also, you can retrofit a lighter alternator. Removing the rear seat on a 2+2 will help also. Basically, anything that doesn't need to be there can save you weight. The higher up in the chassis the weight is the more beneficial its going to be to remove it. You could take 200lbs off the underside of the car and probably not even notice except under straight line acceleration. Where as you could remove 50 lbs from the top of the car and notice a huge difference in cornering though the effect on acceleration wouldn't be as extreme. So it depends on what you're after. If it's just all out acceleration, then remove what you can. If it's handling you're after then you start high and work your way down.

 

I Took Off All Of My Under Coat And Painted It. It Saved At Least 25 Pounds And It Made It Easier To See Rust Starting Trough The Paint. Put Some Sort Of Protection In The Wheel Wells, I Used A Light Layer Of Truck Bed Liner.

 

If you want to get crazy, then wiring is also a good place, You only need to have 4 wires running to the rear of the car. Brake and turn signals, fuel pump and back up lights. Also you can cut out the inside door panels, you only need to leave the mounting points for the windows, power, and the arm rest and stuff. A big hole saw and tin snips work pretty good. Plus the spare and jack and if your really obsessed, take all the plastic out from inside the glove box, Just leave the mounting, and latch. And it also works for the arm rest. You only need to look like a full interior. Dismantle the cigarette lighter too, Just leave the silver ring and the top lighter part, pull the extra wiring and fuses for it out too. Air conditioning pull everything related. Anything else you don't need from under and behind the dash. Ash trays too, it doesnt have to open, just look like it will open. Then since your after ounces, enough ounces make pounds, with a knife or dremmel or razor, remove every interior panel you can, and shave any and all extra material from the back of the panel. Make em as flimsey and light as you can. Since they get bolted or snapped back up any way, they don't have to stand up on own. And get your hole saw and start putting holes in the extra inner metal linings that the panels cover, but leave the mounting points for the panels. If you have floor mats cut the carpet out from the floor, just leave eneough material that the floor mat can cover it and still look like it is full carpet. Any brakets you can get to, remove extra material, Alternater brackets and stuff like that, usually have alot of material on the ends, so grind half of it out. Radio brackets and stuff like that too. Smaller batery. Heavy cats, replace with test pipes. Bumpers and crash bars, remove the covers and hole saw and die grind. The steel straps that hold gas tanks, remove and replace with lighter aluminun. EGR tubes and charcoal canister and lines remove if possible. At this point you removed alot of weight, If you go to this level of obsevive weight removal, then you are done, there is nothing left to remove, oh light weight hood and fenders and don't hit anything, cause the car will probably fall apart

 

And what is the weight of a 80 base model, no A/C, no power steering, manual windows, no rear defog, no rear wiper and a hard top w/ automatic. I think my car is the cheapest one, the lowest you could go. Because mine has nothing, and a hardtop

 

I think a base model with no options or power anything was around 2805 or something like that.

And as opposed to going through all that work, just get everything made in carbon

 

83 has a different dizzy on it to..

 

1981 turbo has one type of distributor. 1982-83 turbo are another type.
The turbo ECU had changes all three years.

1979-83 non-turbo all interchange although there were minor differences in the ignition module.

[correct me if I'm wrong on any of this]

 

yeah you're right. The dizzy in the 81's had the crank sensor on the front of the engine and the later ones had it in the distributor (could be the other way around if I'm wrong). The later model IM's on the NA had an extra plug on them that the earlier ones did not have.

 

Does anyone here know the FACTORY octane rating for the 280ZX TURBO cars? I'm assuming it's 87 but I'd like that to be verified by somebody with an original owners manual. Figured I'd add ocatne requirements to the specifications.

 

Updated some of the information (weights) and cleaned it up a little. I eliminated some useless information that was just cluttering the post. Stuff that can be calculated with the numbers given in the original post like power weight. I also eliminated acceleration times and stuff like that due to inconsistency.

 

On the transmission data, 1980 5-speed is unique. 1st through 4th are the same as the 81-83, but the 5th gear ratio is somewhere between the 79 version and the 81 version.

 

corrected. Thanks Bleach

 

Yes, as it comes from the factory, it was designed for 87 octane for the Turbos. Hehe, with such a huge gas tank and high gas prices, I'm thrilled I can get away with regular unleaded!

 

Any one know the fuel economy on these cars? I cant find it anywhere and I dont own any owners manuals. All models all years, including turbo. Thanks guys.

 

Don't forget the wheels and tires. You can save 40lbs. and have less rotating mass on the rear to also give you more net HP.

 

My 79's Original Manual Says I Should Run 91 Octane With Na, I Never Did When It Was Stock. I Think The Fuel Economy Was Around 21mpg If I Remember, Ill Check My Original Ads And Books.

 

my 2+2 on 87 or whatever regular is, I swear barely wastes gas. Is that in part of the different gear ratio from the automatic?

 

i run my 2+2 on 98 octane and i chew thru fuel like there's a fuel leak. (which hey, could be my problem) Im getting about 16-17 litres per 100k... i dno what that is in mpg but not very high.

 

And we've found another rich as hell soul who could care less about the environment

 

Where Do You Get 98 Octane, I Make My Own With Zylene Added.

 

You can hit up a motorcycle shop or most performance stores have a hookup on race fuel. ~5.50 a gallon here in SD the last time I bought some. Minimum buy-in was 5 gallons. Anyways, my 82zxt with an a/t gets about 17-18 mpg in mixed driving and 21 mpg on the freeway with no boosting. It weighed in at 2960lbs. when I first got it with as close to a full tank of gas as I could get it.