280ZX Suspension conversions?
#1
280ZX Suspension conversions?
I'm converting a 280ZX to a convertible with a new LS1 engine. With to much work already done, I'm now disappionted with choices I'm finding for the suspension and brake upgrades. I also don't like the angled trailing arm rear suspension.
Has anyone ever converted to the Z rear suspension to a ZX or any other good ideas?
Has anyone ever converted to the Z rear suspension to a ZX or any other good ideas?
#2
Thus the reason few people convert the 280zx to a V8. Lots of issues. But I'll save the lecture since you're already doing it.
Since you are going all out with the body and motor, it's only suiting to go with some quality coil overs. MM (Modern Motorsport) has a good setup. You can also use Toyota 4piston calipers & bigger rotors as long as you upgrade to a bigger wheel (or + offset).
EDIT... oh, and see your other thread about the same question: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-brakes-wheels-suspension-chassis-81/would-old-z-rear-suspension-improve-zx-25354/
Since you are going all out with the body and motor, it's only suiting to go with some quality coil overs. MM (Modern Motorsport) has a good setup. You can also use Toyota 4piston calipers & bigger rotors as long as you upgrade to a bigger wheel (or + offset).
EDIT... oh, and see your other thread about the same question: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-brakes-wheels-suspension-chassis-81/would-old-z-rear-suspension-improve-zx-25354/
#3
I would, personally, if you'r going all out with the motor and body like that convert to 5 lug, it's pretty easy, just get the whole rear end (diff, CV axles, hubs, brakes, etc.) and the front spring/shock assembly off of the front of the 300ZX.
Doing that gives you not only better wheel options, but also more brake options (Z32 brakes are nearly a bolt-on![and then you have EVEN MORE options as far as Z32 brakes go, with big brake kits, multi-piston calipers, etc.]).
Oh, and then you could get some 240SX coilovers, and either drill a hole in the upper support on the rear shock mounts, or make some adaptors to fit the 2-bolt style 240SX coilovers to the 280ZX 3-bolt style mounts.
On the fronts, use the 240SX coilovers again, but cut the strut tube off to about 5mm left, and weld on a collar that a company sells (can't think of their name right now) and thread the coilovers into them and VOILA! a track worthy 280ZX!
Doing that gives you not only better wheel options, but also more brake options (Z32 brakes are nearly a bolt-on![and then you have EVEN MORE options as far as Z32 brakes go, with big brake kits, multi-piston calipers, etc.]).
Oh, and then you could get some 240SX coilovers, and either drill a hole in the upper support on the rear shock mounts, or make some adaptors to fit the 2-bolt style 240SX coilovers to the 280ZX 3-bolt style mounts.
On the fronts, use the 240SX coilovers again, but cut the strut tube off to about 5mm left, and weld on a collar that a company sells (can't think of their name right now) and thread the coilovers into them and VOILA! a track worthy 280ZX!
Last edited by PurePontiacKid; 11-15-2009 at 06:40 PM.
#4
^^^ Ah yeah... I forgot all about the S13 / S14 / Z32 rear end conversions...
(Courtesy of ICICE9's Cardomain page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/336708/6)
(Courtesy of ICICE9's Cardomain page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/336708/6)
#6
arizona zcar has 13" brakes as well as modern-motorsports. the trailing arm isnt that bad unless your lowering it lots, then you can build in camber adjustments into the rear x-member and re-drill the front a-arm piviot. you can get full coils at modern as well. very good setup. camber plates can be bought for the front from technotoytuning and installed easily
#7
Not really, it's just an expensive version of the ground control coilovers, which are just more expensive versions of the other crap you can get on Ebay... To me, a coilover means the spring comes with the shock setup and the whole thing is threaded, allowing for ride-height adjustment without compromising suspension travel, but to each their own, I guess...
#8
Why skimp on one of the most important parts of the car to save a few bucks? If you can't afford the real thing, don't do it.
#11
lol you're lucky Nismo :P (haha jk)
So yea, but if you're going to not cheap out, why get the crappy Ground Controls or whatever when you can get the REAL thing (240SX coilovers welded to the base of the spindle thing) with actual height adjustments? Of course, maybe I just overthink things because I want to be like undriveably low and bottom out all the time, idk... :P
Also Nismo, wouldn't you want LESS offset to fit bigger brake calipers? (Less offset=bigger lip/less wheel behind the mounting surface of the wheel)
So yea, but if you're going to not cheap out, why get the crappy Ground Controls or whatever when you can get the REAL thing (240SX coilovers welded to the base of the spindle thing) with actual height adjustments? Of course, maybe I just overthink things because I want to be like undriveably low and bottom out all the time, idk... :P
Also Nismo, wouldn't you want LESS offset to fit bigger brake calipers? (Less offset=bigger lip/less wheel behind the mounting surface of the wheel)
#13
Thanks for all the advice. I don't know which way to go yet but y'all have given me a lot more to consider.
ArizonaZcar had me really down. Then I couldn't get back online to get your answers.
I'm getting the car back in hand tomorrow to really get down to working it out.
Thanks
ArizonaZcar had me really down. Then I couldn't get back online to get your answers.
I'm getting the car back in hand tomorrow to really get down to working it out.
Thanks
#15
Not to say money is no object but at this point I'm not tying to cut corners.
What may make the decision is what can be used without changing strut towers. I really can't do anything that changes sheet metal now without going to far backwards.
At the same time, I have reinforced the frame rails all the way back so that I can weld anything to them.
I want big brakes, good handling and stay inside a 16" rim. Rear fenders are flared ready for 10" or wider.
Which will give me the best and still fit?
What may make the decision is what can be used without changing strut towers. I really can't do anything that changes sheet metal now without going to far backwards.
At the same time, I have reinforced the frame rails all the way back so that I can weld anything to them.
I want big brakes, good handling and stay inside a 16" rim. Rear fenders are flared ready for 10" or wider.
Which will give me the best and still fit?
#16
Not to say money is no object but at this point I'm not tying to cut corners.
What may make the decision is what can be used without changing strut towers. I really can't do anything that changes sheet metal now without going to far backwards.
At the same time, I have reinforced the frame rails all the way back so that I can weld anything to them.
I want big brakes, good handling and stay inside a 16" rim. Rear fenders are flared ready for 10" or wider.
Which will give me the best and still fit?
What may make the decision is what can be used without changing strut towers. I really can't do anything that changes sheet metal now without going to far backwards.
At the same time, I have reinforced the frame rails all the way back so that I can weld anything to them.
I want big brakes, good handling and stay inside a 16" rim. Rear fenders are flared ready for 10" or wider.
Which will give me the best and still fit?
If you get the right wheel combo, you can either go w/ Toyota 4piston, or Z32 piston calipers. The Toyota ones bolt right up, and you just need wheels that will fit. The Z32's allow for MUCH bigger rotors, but you gotta fab a crazy bracket to mount them. I have more info @ home that I will post tonight.
You have that backwards. If you have less offset, there will be MORE of the wheel towards the hub (inside), than towards the outside, which really doesn't matter anyway because what would matter in that case is how WIDE the actual wheel is. You can either get hub spacers / adapters, or different wheels that will allow the wide *** 4 piston caliper.
#20
moderns fit inside a 16" rim, just. he also has a 5 lug setup that allows any wheel to be used without spacers. he used to run 16" 3rd gen rx7 rims on his s130. very light rim, plus it looks good on the s130. the toyota brakes dont bolt to the s130 strut i thought. just the s30. i got a set of the sw12 calipers and ended up disapointed.
#21
^^^ The S12W calipers are for use w/ the Z31 larger (and wider) vented rotor.
Supposedly the S12 and the S12+8 from the 79-85 Toyota's are meant for the solid rotor setup which is the same thickness as the 280zx vented. Someday when I have time I will mock up a 4piston setup on a 280zx strut.
In the mean time, here's two rockin 280zx front brake upgrades:
(from those 2 prev pics) http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.p...ic,2546.0.html
(setup #3) http://www.outlawbrakes.com/brakes.html
EDIT...
Just a side note, in doing all my brake research I've come to find out that building a performance brake setup can be quite complex. Since we're dealing w/ rotating force, and the rules of torque, the larger the rotor, the more torque applied to the wheel. It's like sticking your finger in the spokes of a bike tire at the hub vs your finger on the outside edge of the tire...
Supposedly the S12 and the S12+8 from the 79-85 Toyota's are meant for the solid rotor setup which is the same thickness as the 280zx vented. Someday when I have time I will mock up a 4piston setup on a 280zx strut.
In the mean time, here's two rockin 280zx front brake upgrades:
(from those 2 prev pics) http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.p...ic,2546.0.html
(setup #3) http://www.outlawbrakes.com/brakes.html
EDIT...
Just a side note, in doing all my brake research I've come to find out that building a performance brake setup can be quite complex. Since we're dealing w/ rotating force, and the rules of torque, the larger the rotor, the more torque applied to the wheel. It's like sticking your finger in the spokes of a bike tire at the hub vs your finger on the outside edge of the tire...
Last edited by NismoPick; 11-17-2009 at 07:37 PM.
#22
You have that backwards. If you have less offset, there will be MORE of the wheel towards the hub (inside), than towards the outside, which really doesn't matter anyway because what would matter in that case is how WIDE the actual wheel is. You can either get hub spacers / adapters, or different wheels that will allow the wide *** 4 piston caliper.
I would think that if the 4 piston calipers hit the wheels at the spokes that almost no matter what you would have to run spacers...?
#23
You have that backwards. If you have less offset, there will be MORE of the wheel towards the hub (inside), than towards the outside, which really doesn't matter anyway because what would matter in that case is how WIDE the actual wheel is. You can either get hub spacers / adapters, or different wheels that will allow the wide *** 4 piston caliper.
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/rim-of...-is-rim-offset
#24
Tire Rack seems to think otherwise.
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/rim-of...-is-rim-offset
http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/rim-of...-is-rim-offset
Originally Posted by Tire Rack
Positive offset means that the hub mounting surface is toward the front of the wheel, while negative offset means the surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheel.
If that weren't true, Honda 4 lug wheels wouldn't have about +40 offsets.
Last edited by NismoPick; 02-16-2010 at 11:41 AM.
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