syereo layouts??
11-14-2003, 12:44 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
syereo layouts??
Alright guys, I've seen a bunch of different stereo conversions and I can't seem to get a straight answer as to what size speakers I should put in the Z..
This is a 280ZX 2+2...
I just got in my stuff and need to know what sort of setup to run. I have all Alpine as of right now..
Head Unit #9805
6.5" 2-way Type R speakers
5.25" Type R separates
5x7" 2-way Type R speakers
12" Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm Type R sub
2 V12 M320 Amps
(I like Alpine)
I plan on selling some of this stuff when I decide on what the final layout is going to be..
What size speakers should I run? What are stock sizes?? I heard that there are 4" in the dash and 6.5" in the back?? Right now the car has the grills punched out and some ghetto old 6x9" speakers in the rear, and no fronts... Soooooo, whattdya all recommend? I'm set on just the one 12" sub, and the deck, but open to what you all think is the best speaker layout...
Again, I will probably be buying/selling speakers to get the final layout... Give me all your best options...
This is a 280ZX 2+2...
I just got in my stuff and need to know what sort of setup to run. I have all Alpine as of right now..
Head Unit #9805
6.5" 2-way Type R speakers
5.25" Type R separates
5x7" 2-way Type R speakers
12" Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm Type R sub
2 V12 M320 Amps
(I like Alpine)
I plan on selling some of this stuff when I decide on what the final layout is going to be..
What size speakers should I run? What are stock sizes?? I heard that there are 4" in the dash and 6.5" in the back?? Right now the car has the grills punched out and some ghetto old 6x9" speakers in the rear, and no fronts... Soooooo, whattdya all recommend? I'm set on just the one 12" sub, and the deck, but open to what you all think is the best speaker layout...
Again, I will probably be buying/selling speakers to get the final layout... Give me all your best options...
11-14-2003, 01:00 PM
#2
Super Siver & Black Stud
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hayward Ca
Posts: 1,526
good luck putting the 4" speakers in your dash.. lol your gonna have to take out the dash just to replace the OEM speakers... its not worth it in my opinion.. upir better off making a custon door enclosure for your front speakers.. and as for the rear.. since your gonna take out the rear seats you might as well make a box that takes the place for the rear seats...
11-17-2003, 03:02 PM
#4
The Evil Twin
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,296
The speakers you hear the most clear are the ones up front. If possible, run your 6.5" or a pair of 6x9 in the front doors or dash somewhere. You'll have to get creative with that. Ignore the speakers in the dash. They aren't even at the full left and right of the car and offer good stereo for the passenger but not the driver! 
Put whatever you have left, 6" or 5.25" round in the rear, by the left and right of the rear passengers and the sub in the far back.
You should be pleased with a nice full range sound up front and the rear speakers are just fill.
Put whatever you have left, 6" or 5.25" round in the rear, by the left and right of the rear passengers and the sub in the far back.
You should be pleased with a nice full range sound up front and the rear speakers are just fill.
12-06-2003, 03:33 AM
#5
you might think about a pair of those really small tweeters, you know the ones that are about the size of a oreo cookie, they have good sound when combined with a sub and a pair of mid's. and you can put them just about anywhere. ive got mine up at the top of the windshield by the t-top's. and if hers has t-tops you will have to put the sub somewhere where you can still put the t-tops in the back of the car.
12-06-2003, 08:18 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Southside of Atlanta Georgia
Posts: 131
I put 2 small speakers in place of factory dash and 2 6x9's behind seat in factory spot and tuned fader so I hear more of the rear speakers. It sounds good to me for now, future plans are for 2 more 6x9's at the rear and a amp for the 6x9's. I dont want no box and that will be plenty for me.
12-06-2003, 08:18 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Southside of Atlanta Georgia
Posts: 131
I put 2 small speakers in place of factory dash and 2 6x9's behind seat in factory spot and tuned fader so I hear more of the rear speakers. It sounds good to me for now, future plans are for 2 more 6x9's at the rear and a amp for the 6x9's. I dont want no box and that will be plenty for me.
12-16-2003, 07:48 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 150
I replaced the two 4 inch speakers in the dash wasn't all that hard. In the back I have two 6½ inch speakers in their stock location. For lows I have three cheap 160watt peak 10 inch subwoofers powered by a 300watt amplifier. Overall it sounds great(no matter how hard you try it will never sound perfect). Plans are to have all Alpine (like it too) but got to rebuild my engine first. I want to have 1 t.v. in the dash, 1 in each headrest, and 2 in my subwoofer box. For speakers I want TYPE S 4 inch in the dash, TYPE S 6½ in the rear, and three TYPE S 10 inch subwoofers in the rear with three or four amplifiers(haven't decided yet).
I want to have 1 t.v. in the dash, 1 in each headrest, and 2 in my subwoofer box. For speakers I want TYPE S 4 inch in the dash, TYPE S 6½ in the rear, and three TYPE S 10 inch subwoofers in the rear with three or four amplifiers(haven't decided yet).
01-10-2004, 08:21 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
stereo layouts
hey the frount speakers indash good news passenger
side is a brease look in the top of your glove compartment
there will be an axcess panel to right speater
time for bad news the driver/center speaker is a bitch you have to remove the hole dash to change it i put 5.5 sorry may offend you sony speakers but you have to cut ac vent and make dent in it around spk but sounds good
as for the bump in the trunk i got 2 12 digital audio right behind seats i have 2 seater and pulled body pannel right behind
seats whish would be like 2+2 back seat floor sort of have 12's right up agianst back of seats really kicks you in the spine feels good but sounds better with the hach about 1 foot open
anyway hope that helps sorry no 2by2 info
buggy1 out
side is a brease look in the top of your glove compartment
there will be an axcess panel to right speater
time for bad news the driver/center speaker is a bitch you have to remove the hole dash to change it i put 5.5 sorry may offend you sony speakers but you have to cut ac vent and make dent in it around spk but sounds good
as for the bump in the trunk i got 2 12 digital audio right behind seats i have 2 seater and pulled body pannel right behind
seats whish would be like 2+2 back seat floor sort of have 12's right up agianst back of seats really kicks you in the spine feels good but sounds better with the hach about 1 foot open
anyway hope that helps sorry no 2by2 info
buggy1 out
01-15-2004, 03:23 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: New York City
Posts: 69
Speakers
I decided not to use the factory speaker locations, instead went with a custom set up. I have a set of Boston Acoustics 6.53's in the doors, and another set in the rear behind the driver & passenger seat.
I have a set of Rockford Fosagate Pro 12's in a custom enclosure in the rear behind a amp board.
I am using an Alpine 7618 head unit, 3342 EQ, 5959S CD Shuttle, 2 Rockford Punch 45's for Highs, 2 Rockford Punch 75's for Mids, 2 Rockford Punch 150's for Mid Bass, 1 Rockford Fosgate 1000 for Sub Woofers w/ a 1.5 farad cap.
I have a Leece Neevil 145amp dual output alternator running to a second battery to power everything.
I have pictures of the amp board on my profile page, and will update photos once I finish the install.
Any questions, feel free to email.
Rob
I have a set of Rockford Fosagate Pro 12's in a custom enclosure in the rear behind a amp board.
I am using an Alpine 7618 head unit, 3342 EQ, 5959S CD Shuttle, 2 Rockford Punch 45's for Highs, 2 Rockford Punch 75's for Mids, 2 Rockford Punch 150's for Mid Bass, 1 Rockford Fosgate 1000 for Sub Woofers w/ a 1.5 farad cap.
I have a Leece Neevil 145amp dual output alternator running to a second battery to power everything.
I have pictures of the amp board on my profile page, and will update photos once I finish the install.
Any questions, feel free to email.
Rob
01-26-2004, 06:59 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
I was thinking the door speaker idea is good for some nice 4-inchers, I was also thinking of cutting holes inthe dash above the stock speakers for access purposes and putting some tweets there, then mounting custom grilles for future access....
Tell me about the door install
I was also thinking that the 2-seaters have these twin compartments behind the seats that could be used in constructing some angled 4x6's, which is fine.
I plan to use a 2-channel amp connected to this new 8" bass tube I bought. I prefer that, you don't need a huge box with a hatchback, the accoustics are usually pretty good (although I'd never use a tube in a coupe). I also personally prefer the sound of industrial carboard tubes.
Tell me about the door install
I was also thinking that the 2-seaters have these twin compartments behind the seats that could be used in constructing some angled 4x6's, which is fine.
I plan to use a 2-channel amp connected to this new 8" bass tube I bought. I prefer that, you don't need a huge box with a hatchback, the accoustics are usually pretty good (although I'd never use a tube in a coupe). I also personally prefer the sound of industrial carboard tubes.
01-26-2004, 07:58 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: New York City
Posts: 69
Door install
The speakers are 3 way seperates. Boston Acoustics Pro Series 6.53's. 6.5" Woofer, 4" midrange & 1" tweeter.
The speakers are mounted on the bottom of the door sil, where there was a small pocket to hold papers or a map. The carpet was removed and the speakers are mounted in a fiberglass enclosure that was made. The door was then recovered in vinyl to match the interior. Woofer, midrange and tweeter from front to rear, and the "imaging" is fine.
I'll post pictures when I get a chance.
The rear speakers are mounted in the "cubby holes". The woofer and the midrange are mounted there, and the tweeter is mounted more towards the pillar near the door jam. The speakers are mounted in this sequence tweeter, mid range, woofer-woofer, midrange, tweeter. The cubby holes are lined with dynamat and some fiberglass to better insulate the sound.
The speakers are not mounted flush with the seat backs, but angled slightly so the speakers do not fire directly into the back of the seats. I haven't tried this out yet, but when I do, I'll let you know.
The sub woofers are mounted in an enclosure in the rear hatch that pretty much takes up the whole rear, from the shock posts back to the tail light panel. From the shock posts forward to the front edge of the hatch area is my amp board which is "L" shaped. I have pictures of this on my page.
The speaker box is made of plywood instead of dense particle board to save weight. This houses 2 Rockford Fosgate Pro 12's. The seams are sealed and seperated into 2 on the inside. Dynamat is also lined on the walls of the box. The bass tubes are 2" in diameter and about 10" long and fluted at the bottom. I took this design from a magazine from someone who had won an award during a sound off. I had the same designed box in my full size Bronco and the bass was "strong" not loud.
The car is almost done at DRT in Woodside and will go to my friends audio shop to complete the install which I will oversee. I haven't tinkered with audio since 1991 and I need to get a refresher course in what's new. I will probably use "0" gauge wire from the 2nd output on the alternator to the rear battery, and power the amps from the rear battery or batteries. 4 gauge wire to the junction blocks and between 4 and 8 gauge to wire the amps.
Sorry for the information overload.
The speakers are mounted on the bottom of the door sil, where there was a small pocket to hold papers or a map. The carpet was removed and the speakers are mounted in a fiberglass enclosure that was made. The door was then recovered in vinyl to match the interior. Woofer, midrange and tweeter from front to rear, and the "imaging" is fine.
I'll post pictures when I get a chance.
The rear speakers are mounted in the "cubby holes". The woofer and the midrange are mounted there, and the tweeter is mounted more towards the pillar near the door jam. The speakers are mounted in this sequence tweeter, mid range, woofer-woofer, midrange, tweeter. The cubby holes are lined with dynamat and some fiberglass to better insulate the sound.
The speakers are not mounted flush with the seat backs, but angled slightly so the speakers do not fire directly into the back of the seats. I haven't tried this out yet, but when I do, I'll let you know.
The sub woofers are mounted in an enclosure in the rear hatch that pretty much takes up the whole rear, from the shock posts back to the tail light panel. From the shock posts forward to the front edge of the hatch area is my amp board which is "L" shaped. I have pictures of this on my page.
The speaker box is made of plywood instead of dense particle board to save weight. This houses 2 Rockford Fosgate Pro 12's. The seams are sealed and seperated into 2 on the inside. Dynamat is also lined on the walls of the box. The bass tubes are 2" in diameter and about 10" long and fluted at the bottom. I took this design from a magazine from someone who had won an award during a sound off. I had the same designed box in my full size Bronco and the bass was "strong" not loud.
The car is almost done at DRT in Woodside and will go to my friends audio shop to complete the install which I will oversee. I haven't tinkered with audio since 1991 and I need to get a refresher course in what's new. I will probably use "0" gauge wire from the 2nd output on the alternator to the rear battery, and power the amps from the rear battery or batteries. 4 gauge wire to the junction blocks and between 4 and 8 gauge to wire the amps.
Sorry for the information overload.
Last edited by 81280zxtc; 01-26-2004 at 08:09 PM.
02-16-2004, 05:23 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
When I installed my new sound equipment, basically a stock setup with new Alpine equipment, I took the panels off the bottom of dash, turned them over and placed the 4" fosgate spk on there, traced around with marker , then ground down the support ridges, only what I needed, used a pattern I made up for drilling around 80 small holes, some bigger then others, then used epoxy cement to permently mount to back of panel, the small holes are very low in panel and not seen at all, even if you do actually see them, they look good, no screw or likewise showing from front, spk is super secure, and the sound is great.
Just another option, it does take a little time tho, but anything worth doing is worth doing right,
No my system isnt the best , but it does sound good.
Alpine CD Radio/ Alpine 6x9s/ Fosgate 4"/ appox 375.00 total
2 days work to complete.
I normally drive with ZZ Tops cd , elimniator, cranking.
Charles
Just another option, it does take a little time tho, but anything worth doing is worth doing right,
No my system isnt the best , but it does sound good.
Alpine CD Radio/ Alpine 6x9s/ Fosgate 4"/ appox 375.00 total
2 days work to complete.
I normally drive with ZZ Tops cd , elimniator, cranking.
Charles
02-22-2004, 12:53 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 2,896
like just a kinda wireframe? or do the actual sides hafta be like solid mdf...i seen some people make 4 sides of mdf and then just one side nicely molded as fiberglass....i wanna mold the whole thing to the car ...not make it square...if you get my drift...
02-23-2004, 07:25 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Maryville, TN
Posts: 150
Alright, You just need to make the basic frame out of wood(preferably mdf). Just make the bottom and the straight parts of the sides out of wood(its a lot easier). Then make wood rings for your subs to mount too(about 1 inch wide). And a tray for your amps if you are going to have them in the tub also. Then take an staple your fiberglass mat to the wood and go at it. After you get done glassing you will need to do some bondo, and sanding to get it perfectly smooth. The good thing about a tub is you can make it as flat or as wavy as you want. The only drawback is there is a good amount of labor. When it is done it is well worth all the work.
