Hey guys. I'm going to swap out my front springs and strut inserts this weekend and wondered if there's a how-to out there somewhere. I've done this before on other cars, but know there are always subtleties that can help. Thanks in advance if you can point me to any good write-ups.

 

Yup! A very good write-up in the FSM: www.xenons130.com/reference



-Pull struts from car
-Compress spring
-Remove spring hat
-Remove old shock cartridge
-Install new cartrige w/ ATF
-Install spring
-Install hat
-Install back on car.

 

might as well do the bushings while you are at it. that and new tie rod ends and ball joints will do a lot more for you along with the struts.

 

Thanks, that's a great reference. I was hoping that the spring and strut insert could be replaced without removing the entire strut (and brake calipers, hub,etc...) beforehand. However, if I'm reading the referenced material correctly, that doesn't appear to be the case. Correct? Thanks again.

 

Ah... I did forget to mention that you must pop out the tie rod ends. Good point on replacing everything while it's all apart.

Unless you want to sawsall your strut tower, you must remove the strut.

3 bolts on the control arm, 3 nuts on the strut tower, 2 bolts for the brake caliper, and 1 nut on the tie rod. If you are fast, you could pull a strut in about 10 minutes (most of that time is spent on breaking free the tie rod).

EDIT... loosen the tie rod nut until it's got about half the threads left before it comes off, then use a block of wood and hammer to punch it out of the nuckle. Ball joint forks will rip the boot and scar the nuckle.

 

Thanks again, I'll see if I can get my hands on a tie-rod breaking tool. 10 minutes sounds very optimistic, but will see what I can pull off. Are any parts NOT reusable once they have been disassembled?

 

See my edit... don't use a ball joint pickle fork except as a last resort. Everything will go back on fine, even the cotter pin if you are careful.

 

thanks again. Is it essential to pull the hub and brake rotor, or can all the bolts be accessed without removing these bits, enabling you to yank the entire strut assembly.

 

No need to touch the rotor if you are just doing the strut (unless you can't lift 40lbs total). I'm pretty sure you will get the picture when you look at the strut.

 

Thanks yes. I've done it several times on my old BMW 2002, but since it's so low I don't even need to use spring compressors, and can actually feed the insert up through the the inner fender, no need to even yank the strut assembly.