Floorpans...
#2
Anything is possible... with the right amount of $$$. Why do you want fiberglass floor pans? They aren't any lighter or stronger than formed sheet metal. The only advantage that I see, is that they won't rust. But if you seal / protect new steel floor pans correctly, or use galvanized steel, you wouldn't have that prob anyway... and you won't have to deal w/ the mess of fiberglass.
#3
Weight issues
Actually, if done properly, 'glass is much lighter than glass. It all has to do with the right combo of 'glass and carbon fiber. Before you get your panties in a wad about the cost, keep in mind that buying in bulk can be your friend. Especially if you really have any skill. Anyway, all I was wondering was if my cars body will twist in two or not. Not if it would be expensive. I don't mean to offend if I have, but you answered a question I did not ask.
#4
Originally Posted by slammed87d21
but you answered a question I did not ask.
Originally Posted by slammed87d21
I was just wondering if it was possible to do that to my 280ZX?
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Anything is possible... with the right amount of $$$.
#5
I actually planned on making floor pans and an assortment of other pieces for the 280ZX out of glass and carbon fiber and trying to sell them, if I see enough interest. I plan on posting my idea soon if you are interested
#6
I've already rebuilt my floor... and the rest of the car for that matter, so I personally won't ever need them, but others may.
I would like to know if you've weighed a fiberglass floorboard and compared it to the weight of the same floorboard in sheet metal. To get fiberglass down to the same weight as sheet metal... it's got to be somewhat thin... thin fiberglass isn't very strong when twisted or hit (like in a crash).
I would like to know if you've weighed a fiberglass floorboard and compared it to the weight of the same floorboard in sheet metal. To get fiberglass down to the same weight as sheet metal... it's got to be somewhat thin... thin fiberglass isn't very strong when twisted or hit (like in a crash).
#7
I understand where you are coming from with what you said about strength. My plan was to use stock seat brackets and a few certain mounting technics to make up some strength. Like I said before I will go into more detail in a post about my plans in another post if you are interested in the idea
#8
there is one really big problem with this. the suspension in the rear attaches to the floor pan for stability where the main x-member attaches with those really big bolts. when these floors rust you can feel the member move. its amazing how much it stabilizes the suspension by properly repairing it. the stupid part is thats where they all rust!!! right below the seats. anything ahead of that point could be done, but unless its bolt in, weld in, or easy to do, ppl wont go for it. or guys like me with my aircraft composits course, would just build it ourselfs. plus if you make a part like that you could be in for liability if the car has serious damage along its travels down the road. not to be negative, just realistic. you can although, do it on you own car.
#9
[QUOTE=NismoPick]I've already rebuilt my floor... and the rest of the car for that matter, so I personally won't ever need them, but others may.
Nismo, how did you do your pans? My 2+2 is a serious candidate for new front pans and some repair around the rear member where the rear suspension bolts up. Any kind of guidance would be super. Any good reference materials available?
Nismo, how did you do your pans? My 2+2 is a serious candidate for new front pans and some repair around the rear member where the rear suspension bolts up. Any kind of guidance would be super. Any good reference materials available?
#10
I just got some sheet metal, pounded / massaged it into the shape of a floor pan, and welded it in. Not the best pic... but the black area on the left side is a new floor pan (2 pieces... 1 outside, 1 inside):
#11
Very nice, you've spent a lot of time cleaning and coloring under there. It looks like you removed the factory undercoating too. What did you use to do it? A Heat gun or just a scraper and elbow grease. I would love to get rid of it on mine. It seems to retain moisture and create the rust problems.
#12
he didnt remove it looks like its just old like mine, i used a wire brush and a pressure washer and whatever didnt come off i said was meant to stay there and painted all of it. and thats how i got this:
shazammm!
shazammm!
#15
Problem with f'glass panels is fixing them to metal in a structural situation. Not sure that this problem has ever been 100% fixed to maintain the full structural integrity of a vehicle.
On the other hand there is always a market for GOOD bolt ons, like spoilers, guard flares, etc. But the design has to be RIGHT.
On the other hand there is always a market for GOOD bolt ons, like spoilers, guard flares, etc. But the design has to be RIGHT.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bookmarks