MSA Sway Bar Kit, 79-83 ZX, Front 1", Rear 7/8" 229$

Suspension Techniques 52105 Sway Bars, Green, Steel, Front 1 1/8 in./Rear 7/8 in. Diameters, Nissan, 280ZX, Kit 302$


What one to choose. Also i will use slightly stiffer suspension then factory, but only about 1 step up in front, two in rear. with level and drop. it will be a 1 1/2 drop or 2 drop, don't know yet

 

MSA upped their price, my sales invoice shows $199 for the sway bar kit...

As for 1/8th of an inch, make much of a difference?

 

On a solid sway bar it does. I'm going to be using a 37" long 1 1/4" thick solid, nascar sway bar, with long arms bent inwards to use factory sway bar links. Picked everything up for $150. for the front.

 

Hot.

I should have realized by simple mechanics, that the thicker something is, the harder it is to bend it...

Thicker bars, less bend.

I fail.

 

well since my car won't see the track, that 1/8 for that price jump i think i can live without. But i did find out that ordering the poly bushings from summit is cheaper then MSA, when ordering them my individual part.

 

For street use, the slightly more thin bar will keep the front wheels more independent of each other. Maybe you will like the extra give, but still a lot more firm than stock.

 

well i ordered the MSA part. and there prices went back down to 199$. i don't know why they had it higher for like 2 weeks. but all new bushings, and new sway bars ordered.

 

When do we get to see the pics?????? Sounds like a sweet upgrade that some of us may be interested in.

 

lol oh sorry. I got the front one on now. I put it on when i did bushings and the breaks. Still got to do the rear bushings and brakes. But ill snap one tomorrow. Amazing how much the front tightened up. But mu breaks are still soggy. no improvement whats so ever. New pads, rotors, calipers and SS lines. Feels like i am trying to stop a F350 with Ranger brakes.

 

Still no pics, But i got the rear sway bar on today. the rear is now the size of the factory front. noticeable difference in size. No chance to try it out. tried bleeding the brakes more to get the soggy out, found problem. rear of car gets 0 hydro pressure. MC is clogged, car stops using fronts only.

 

I just put my stainless brake lines on last weekend (and boots for the tokicos, sway urethane bushings) and had the same problem. First problem was that we did the boots for the front struts first so we just carried on and did the urethane bushings for the sways on the front and the front brake lines. Blead the fronts first which is backwards - you are suppose to do the farthest from the master cylinder (I'm learning). I did it with a friend of mine who is a mechanic. Anyhow it was all going along nicely until the rears went out. We took the proportioning valve apart because we couldn't get the system to bleed no matter what we did front or rear. Thats when we saw the bleader on the master. Somehow air got up to the master side and a simple turn of the wrench had us back up and running. The proportioning valve is a fail safe so if your rears go out you still have the fronts. Check to see if you've got air in your rear system at BOTH ends

 

Once i got a MC, i got it all bleed. and now it works great. still don't stop as fast as my friends 280ZX, but will do for a DD