Performance upgrade for 280ZX brakes
#1
Performance upgrade for 280ZX brakes
Hey guys,
I am plannning on upgrading my brakes and just wanted to get some real feedback on brake systems that are being used. I want to do the following:'
a. Slotted rotors on the front, stock on the rear.
b. Performance pads all around but haven't decided what type/brand.
c. Stainless braided lines all around.
d. Performance brake fluid. Again don't know the best type/brand.
Upgrading because I plan on doing some autoX and possibly some track time.
You know weekend warrior type events.
thanks,
VernonZ
I am plannning on upgrading my brakes and just wanted to get some real feedback on brake systems that are being used. I want to do the following:'
a. Slotted rotors on the front, stock on the rear.
b. Performance pads all around but haven't decided what type/brand.
c. Stainless braided lines all around.
d. Performance brake fluid. Again don't know the best type/brand.
Upgrading because I plan on doing some autoX and possibly some track time.
You know weekend warrior type events.
thanks,
VernonZ
#2
I'm not sure how much those slotted rotors will really help you.
Larger rotors are really what you need for added braking response and less fade.
300ZX hubs, 5-lug swap, then good brake pads. That should be fine.
Or just buy good pads and the stainless brake hoses. Normal fluid should be good unless you get into some serious track racing.
Larger rotors are really what you need for added braking response and less fade.
300ZX hubs, 5-lug swap, then good brake pads. That should be fine.
Or just buy good pads and the stainless brake hoses. Normal fluid should be good unless you get into some serious track racing.
#3
Start with the stainless steel lines and new pads. Stock or performance (hawk, porterfield, etc.). Flush all the brake fluid and refill with new fluid. Dot 3 is fine or you can try some Dot 4 fluid for track events. I use ATE Super Blue.
A refreshed stock setup will work pretty good. Try it out at an event and see if you need more bite.
A refreshed stock setup will work pretty good. Try it out at an event and see if you need more bite.
#6
i got drilled rotors all the way around, they work great, really improved the brake fade from higher speeds. it doesnt matter if they are slotted or drilled, they do the same job, with the same results, its been tested. the dot 4 is a great upgrade as well. its boiling point is higher, and its compression point is higher. the braided brake lines give great pedal feel and allow better modulation of the pedal. i did all of the upgrades one at a time so i could see and feel the difference of each one individually. better pads would be nice, something metallic is a huge upgrade i havent done yet, but its coming. i still run the stock non metalic pads from napa. i do street and autox and havent had a problem yet.
#7
Euro Z King
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Utrecht The Netherlands where owning a car is a CRIME!!
Posts: 387
haha shady you dont have enough power then
As told stockers with good pads and stainless lines will help ( lines will mostly improve pedal feel and travel) Don’t go overboard on pads to racy means they need to warm up before they will do you any good and the squeal like a cheap ***** ...
For auto x and spirited driving the stock diameter is fine .. slotted and drilled wont help you much in my book + the sets you can get are cheap aftermarket crap
(however this is MY opinion)
For the way I use my car I swapped to z31 vented in the rear and upfront using r32 calipers upfront and stock 88’s in the rear then again I do track driving on a turbo car .. It all depends .. how much power .. your personal style of driving ( are you hard on your brakes ??), and what you use it for.
As told stockers with good pads and stainless lines will help ( lines will mostly improve pedal feel and travel) Don’t go overboard on pads to racy means they need to warm up before they will do you any good and the squeal like a cheap ***** ...
For auto x and spirited driving the stock diameter is fine .. slotted and drilled wont help you much in my book + the sets you can get are cheap aftermarket crap
(however this is MY opinion)
For the way I use my car I swapped to z31 vented in the rear and upfront using r32 calipers upfront and stock 88’s in the rear then again I do track driving on a turbo car .. It all depends .. how much power .. your personal style of driving ( are you hard on your brakes ??), and what you use it for.
#9
those are custom boyd coddingtons, 17x9.5. i run 255/40r17s on them. they were made for the mustang and 280zx in the 80's. ive never ever seen another set b4. apparently the guy i bought them off of payed 2600 new for them. if you have a lowered car i dont think they would fit without mods and flares either. just too wide for stock fenders. but i dont know, never lowered my car.
#10
In this order:
1. Brake fluid - reduced potential to boil
2. Brake lines - pedal response
3. Brake pads - higher tolerance for heat and more aggressive compound gives better "grip" on the rotor (really aggressive pads may "chew" through your rotors VERY fast. Hawk HP+ or Porterfield R4S are a good compromise pad.
4. Bigger vented rotors (no holes or slots) - larger lever arm + larger heat sink
5. Bigger calipers (need to go custom here) - more pistons = more grip + larger heat sink
6. Frank is the man when it comes to Z31/32 parts swaps on the 280ZX...
Drilled and slotted rotors were originally designed for "real" race cars back in the day. Modern technology makes them mostly obsolete unless you're off-road rallying and you need the slots to "swipe" the dirt/contaminants off the pad. The only thing they do now (in MY opinion) is reduce the mass and the heat sink capacity.
It's more important to have as large a "heat sink" and as big a rotor as you can get on your cars brakes. Large rotor = Large heat sink & lever arm = less fade and better repeatable braking under frequent brake events.
1. Brake fluid - reduced potential to boil
2. Brake lines - pedal response
3. Brake pads - higher tolerance for heat and more aggressive compound gives better "grip" on the rotor (really aggressive pads may "chew" through your rotors VERY fast. Hawk HP+ or Porterfield R4S are a good compromise pad.
4. Bigger vented rotors (no holes or slots) - larger lever arm + larger heat sink
5. Bigger calipers (need to go custom here) - more pistons = more grip + larger heat sink
6. Frank is the man when it comes to Z31/32 parts swaps on the 280ZX...
Drilled and slotted rotors were originally designed for "real" race cars back in the day. Modern technology makes them mostly obsolete unless you're off-road rallying and you need the slots to "swipe" the dirt/contaminants off the pad. The only thing they do now (in MY opinion) is reduce the mass and the heat sink capacity.
It's more important to have as large a "heat sink" and as big a rotor as you can get on your cars brakes. Large rotor = Large heat sink & lever arm = less fade and better repeatable braking under frequent brake events.
#11
hehehe, i was going 180kph the other day, and some moron pulled outta his lane to slow me down, guess he didnt realize how fast i was going. i slowed up to 110kph so fast my shoulders hurt from my harnness!! im not going to do that anymore. i didnt even warp the rotors, i was happy it turned out but boy, what a feeling.
#12
Did you punch him square in the face?! Freakin' idiots. I don't condone excessive speeding on public roads, but that guy could have ended two lives with that stupid move.
If he wants to enforce the traffic laws, he should join the RCMP.
If he wants to enforce the traffic laws, he should join the RCMP.
Originally Posted by SHADY280
hehehe, i was going 180kph the other day, and some moron pulled outta his lane to slow me down, guess he didnt realize how fast i was going. i slowed up to 110kph so fast my shoulders hurt from my harnness!! im not going to do that anymore. i didnt even warp the rotors, i was happy it turned out but boy, what a feeling.
#13
#14
haha shady you dont have enough power then
As told stockers with good pads and stainless lines will help ( lines will mostly improve pedal feel and travel) Don’t go overboard on pads to racy means they need to warm up before they will do you any good and the squeal like a cheap ***** ...
For auto x and spirited driving the stock diameter is fine .. slotted and drilled wont help you much in my book + the sets you can get are cheap aftermarket crap
(however this is MY opinion)
For the way I use my car I swapped to z31 vented in the rear and upfront using r32 calipers upfront and stock 88’s in the rear then again I do track driving on a turbo car .. It all depends .. how much power .. your personal style of driving ( are you hard on your brakes ??), and what you use it for.
As told stockers with good pads and stainless lines will help ( lines will mostly improve pedal feel and travel) Don’t go overboard on pads to racy means they need to warm up before they will do you any good and the squeal like a cheap ***** ...
For auto x and spirited driving the stock diameter is fine .. slotted and drilled wont help you much in my book + the sets you can get are cheap aftermarket crap
(however this is MY opinion)
For the way I use my car I swapped to z31 vented in the rear and upfront using r32 calipers upfront and stock 88’s in the rear then again I do track driving on a turbo car .. It all depends .. how much power .. your personal style of driving ( are you hard on your brakes ??), and what you use it for.
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