Rear Strut "Posts"...
#1
Rear Strut "Posts"...
Ok, I just replaced my rear struts, and here's my question:
On the center post at the top, where the single nut is holding the top onto the coil (just under the tower cap), is there a measurement that is normal for that nut to be down from the top? My thought is that the closer the nut is to the top, the higher the rear will be (kind of). It's hard to explain, but I'm sure someone out there knows what I mean, right
Thanks...
Carl
On the center post at the top, where the single nut is holding the top onto the coil (just under the tower cap), is there a measurement that is normal for that nut to be down from the top? My thought is that the closer the nut is to the top, the higher the rear will be (kind of). It's hard to explain, but I'm sure someone out there knows what I mean, right
Thanks...
Carl
#3
Jimmy's right. What you're speaking of has nothing to do with ride height. I just changed all 4 struts on my Z. Get that top nut good and tight. We just used an air gun. If I remember correctly, there was about 3/4" - 1", maybe slightly less, of threads showing above the center nut once it's re-assembled. You do not want that to come loose. If you're using a spring compressor; and if you're not, I recommend finding one, use it to compress the spring, not the center nut.
#4
I have about 1.5 to 2" of thread on top and their not tight yet. Maybe that has to do with the strut mfg.. Just an idea I had in mind. But it does seem to me that as your tightening that nut, it's compressing the spring at the same time, even a little bit...
#6
Yes, all parts are in place correctly. I was just thinking that if I left the nut loose enough (which everything is still tight), then I could gain some height and put a backup nut on top of the single nut to keep it in place...
#7
You could be right about the manufacturers. I changed over to Tokico Illumina's with Eibach pro springs, so if you used anything different there may be more of the threads showing. A lock nut is a good idea on that. I honestly can't remember what we did when putting them back together. I'll try to remember to take a look at it tomorrow and let you know.
#8
Well, I asked an aquintance that was a Z specialist with Nissan for 25 years, and he told me they have to be all the way in until they stop. So now my problem is getting the post to stop turning as I try to tighten them up...
Thanks for all the replies!
Thanks for all the replies!
#9
Use an impact gun. It'll save you lots of time. You definitely don't want to grab the rod with anything. You'll most likely damage it, which will cause a leak. The warranty will be void if you damage the rod. If you don't know anyone with an impact gun, you could probably take it to any autoshop, i.e. Midas, Aamco, Wheel Works, etc. They use air guns/impact guns every day. It would probably take 5 minutes of their time.
#12
Yes, there is a spot like that on top, but I can't get an open end wrench down inside the tower to turn the nut while holding the top portion with something. That's the big problem. I would have to get an open-end wrench with angled end. I'm going to check into that first, I guess. Maybe try a drill with the 17mm(?) deep socket on it...
#15
Originally posted by BleachZee
I like your avitar and signature combo. Nice 280ZX! (and its a good size too. not so HUGE like Icice's picture)
I like your avitar and signature combo. Nice 280ZX! (and its a good size too. not so HUGE like Icice's picture)
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