Separating ball joints
#1
007max's infuriating suspension thread!!!
I am working on my suspension rebuild and ran into this problem: for the life of me I can't get the ball joint separated from... well... I don't really know what the other part is called. I looked at my new ball joint and it looks like it is just a smooth shaft which slides inside the other 'part' and it should come out with some hammering, which I tried, to no avail. I tried soaking it in PB Blaster but it still won't budge. What should I try next?
Last edited by 007max; 06-12-2007 at 08:34 AM.
#2
your having problems removing the threaded part im assuming? looks like you mightve made lfe a pit more difficult by hammering it, it looks smashed now, but they should be in there that tight thats why its threaded... what i usually do when im removing this stuff, is i jack up teh car so teh spring fully decompresses, then i hit around the endges a little (when its unbolted) and the force from teh spring usually sperates it... but i also can tell for sure where this part is from so that mehtod might not apply...
#5
you need to get a ball joint fork you put it between the two parts you want to separate and hammer it in and it basically works like a log splitter its wider towards the top to wedge it apart... i just did my ball joints and hated every second of it.
#9
I only paid like $9.99 plus tax for each of my forks. The ball joint seperator, and the tie-rod seperator. I got them both at Pep Boys, and of course I have more Z's. So it is worth buying them. lol
#11
I didn't realize the fork was so cheap, so I bought it this morning, and guess what, it still wont budge. The ball joint is too far away from the other part for the wedge to work. I guess I will wait until I reassemble the rest of the suspension and then bolt this part on so I can get some leverage to pry them apart.
#12
Originally Posted by 007max
I didn't realize the fork was so cheap, so I bought it this morning, and guess what, it still wont budge. The ball joint is too far away from the other part for the wedge to work. I guess I will wait until I reassemble the rest of the suspension and then bolt this part on so I can get some leverage to pry them apart.
There are different size forks... did they only have one size for sale? You could also just bolt it back on to the strut for more support.
#14
Originally Posted by 007max
I got the one for ball joints...
It's OK, I'll have the suspension back together this weekend and then I can just pry it off when its bolted to the car.
It's OK, I'll have the suspension back together this weekend and then I can just pry it off when its bolted to the car.
#15
seperating ball joints OFF the car is most likely going to require you put it in a vice that is secured to a very sturdy work bench Much, much easier when its all still on the car. When i changed out the ball joints on my 81 I had to jump up and down on the seperator with a pipe extending it for a bit before it finally broke free (and yes, I ate **** when it broke free. But atleast it broke free).
#17
The suspension rebuild includes a full set of urethane bushings, new ball joints, tie-rod-ends, and Tokiko blues + lowering springs & bumpsteer spacers. When I took apart the strut I found that it had leaked fluid everywhere and was competely shot. Also I stripped both wheel wells with aircraft stripper and sprayed a coat of rust inhibitor & primer. I'm also upgrading the brakes with SS brakelines & new pads. Whew...
I can't wait to see how much the handling improves once I'm done
I can't wait to see how much the handling improves once I'm done
#18
Originally Posted by jfairladyz
seperating ball joints OFF the car is most likely going to require you put it in a vice that is secured to a very sturdy work bench Much, much easier when its all still on the car. When i changed out the ball joints on my 81 I had to jump up and down on the seperator with a pipe extending it for a bit before it finally broke free (and yes, I ate **** when it broke free. But atleast it broke free).
#19
Even more problems...
I was sent the wrong tie rod-ends
The instructions for the control arm bushing say to remove the stock bushing but retain and reuse the outer sleeve. Turns out that thats not true b/c the new bushings will not fit into the old sleeve unless I trim like 2mm off. How do I get the old sleeve out w/o destroying the control arm?
I tried using the fork designed for the job, hung all my weight off the end with a 3' breaker bar attached to the point that I was rocking the entire car, and the damn ball joint still wont budge!
I was sent the wrong tie rod-ends
The instructions for the control arm bushing say to remove the stock bushing but retain and reuse the outer sleeve. Turns out that thats not true b/c the new bushings will not fit into the old sleeve unless I trim like 2mm off. How do I get the old sleeve out w/o destroying the control arm?
I tried using the fork designed for the job, hung all my weight off the end with a 3' breaker bar attached to the point that I was rocking the entire car, and the damn ball joint still wont budge!
#20
That new tie rod end looks correct for the rack & pinion steering. I assume you have the reciprocating gear box steering? Did you let them know when ordering that you don't have rack & pinion?
And the control arm bushings:
You do have to remove the outter metal sleeve, either by pressing it out, or cutting. I used a sawsall & carefully cut into the side until I could punch it out.
And the control arm bushings:
You do have to remove the outter metal sleeve, either by pressing it out, or cutting. I used a sawsall & carefully cut into the side until I could punch it out.
#21
I did not know there were different options for power steering withing the 280zx range. Did Nissan offer these side by side or was there a year when they made the switch? The seller listed the tie-rod ends as good for 1979-1983 ZXs so I assumed that they would work.
#23
Just shows how much I have yet to learn about these cars.
Is there an advantage to one steering setup over another? Mine is shot so I'll have to replace the whole thing anyway, might as well get the better setup.
Is there an advantage to one steering setup over another? Mine is shot so I'll have to replace the whole thing anyway, might as well get the better setup.
#25
First of all, let me thank you for your help, it is invaluable to me. There is so much more knowledge on this forum than at any of the companies that make the aftermarket parts for our cars. I love this place.
Now I would assume this shows that I have the reciprocating gear box steering system in my car.
Now I would assume this shows that I have the reciprocating gear box steering system in my car.