007max

I am working on my suspension rebuild and ran into this problem: for the life of me I can't get the ball joint separated from... well... I don't really know what the other part is called. I looked at my new ball joint and it looks like it is just a smooth shaft which slides inside the other 'part' and it should come out with some hammering, which I tried, to no avail. I tried soaking it in PB Blaster but it still won't budge. What should I try next?

snwbrderphat540

your having problems removing the threaded part im assuming? looks like you mightve made lfe a pit more difficult by hammering it, it looks smashed now, but they should be in there that tight thats why its threaded... what i usually do when im removing this stuff, is i jack up teh car so teh spring fully decompresses, then i hit around the endges a little (when its unbolted) and the force from teh spring usually sperates it... but i also can tell for sure where this part is from so that mehtod might not apply...

NismoPick

Have you been using the ball joint removal fork?

snwbrderphat540

lol, there is that too..... but i like to do things my own way sometimes...

flightforlife07

you need to get a ball joint fork you put it between the two parts you want to separate and hammer it in and it basically works like a log splitter its wider towards the top to wedge it apart... i just did my ball joints and hated every second of it.

007max

Ah, theres a tool for this then? Good, its rare when my sledge doesn't get the job done

What is that other part called btw?

snwbrderphat540

yeah, it looks liek a giant tuning fork, lol, not really but sorta

007max

Hopefully they have one of these available to borrow at Advanced, I'm not planning to do any more ball joints, so buying the tool probably wouldn't be worth it.

WildmaN

I only paid like $9.99 plus tax for each of my forks. The ball joint seperator, and the tie-rod seperator. I got them both at Pep Boys, and of course I have more Z's. So it is worth buying them. lol

snwbrderphat540

just buy one, if you buy tools as ou need tehm you build up a nice collection so you'll never be left out on smoething and it wont cost you a crap load all at once.

007max

I didn't realize the fork was so cheap, so I bought it this morning, and guess what, it still wont budge. The ball joint is too far away from the other part for the wedge to work. I guess I will wait until I reassemble the rest of the suspension and then bolt this part on so I can get some leverage to pry them apart.

NismoPick

There are different size forks... did they only have one size for sale? You could also just bolt it back on to the strut for more support.

007max

I got the one for ball joints...

It's OK, I'll have the suspension back together this weekend and then I can just pry it off when its bolted to the car.

WildmaN

Yes that is why, I put there are 2 different ones. Each one for the certain parts. Glad you are making progress bro'. Keep us updated, and good luck on the rest of your resto.

jfairladyz

seperating ball joints OFF the car is most likely going to require you put it in a vice that is secured to a very sturdy work bench Much, much easier when its all still on the car. When i changed out the ball joints on my 81 I had to jump up and down on the seperator with a pipe extending it for a bit before it finally broke free (and yes, I ate **** when it broke free. But atleast it broke free).

snwbrderphat540

^^^^ now thats a funny mental picture

007max

The suspension rebuild includes a full set of urethane bushings, new ball joints, tie-rod-ends, and Tokiko blues + lowering springs & bumpsteer spacers. When I took apart the strut I found that it had leaked fluid everywhere and was competely shot. Also I stripped both wheel wells with aircraft stripper and sprayed a coat of rust inhibitor & primer. I'm also upgrading the brakes with SS brakelines & new pads. Whew...

I can't wait to see how much the handling improves once I'm done

007max

I tried the vice + hammer approach and only ended up smashing the threaded end of the ball joint to the point that I will probably have to cut it off to get the ball joint out after I break it loose. That sucker is in there good

007max

Even more problems...

I was sent the wrong tie rod-ends



The instructions for the control arm bushing say to remove the stock bushing but retain and reuse the outer sleeve. Turns out that thats not true b/c the new bushings will not fit into the old sleeve unless I trim like 2mm off. How do I get the old sleeve out w/o destroying the control arm?



I tried using the fork designed for the job, hung all my weight off the end with a 3' breaker bar attached to the point that I was rocking the entire car, and the damn ball joint still wont budge!

NismoPick

That new tie rod end looks correct for the rack & pinion steering. I assume you have the reciprocating gear box steering? Did you let them know when ordering that you don't have rack & pinion?

And the control arm bushings:

You do have to remove the outter metal sleeve, either by pressing it out, or cutting. I used a sawsall & carefully cut into the side until I could punch it out.

007max

I did not know there were different options for power steering withing the 280zx range. Did Nissan offer these side by side or was there a year when they made the switch? The seller listed the tie-rod ends as good for 1979-1983 ZXs so I assumed that they would work.

NismoPick

79-81 mostly had recip gear box (the large square steering box under the brake reservior). 82-83 & the 81 turbo had rack & pinion.

007max

Just shows how much I have yet to learn about these cars.

Is there an advantage to one steering setup over another? Mine is shot so I'll have to replace the whole thing anyway, might as well get the better setup.

NismoPick

Rack & pinion is usually considered better... it's in 99% of cars today.

007max

First of all, let me thank you for your help, it is invaluable to me. There is so much more knowledge on this forum than at any of the companies that make the aftermarket parts for our cars. I love this place.


Now I would assume this shows that I have the reciprocating gear box steering system in my car.