Shake in Wheel. Any Ideas?
09-29-2003 | 04:50 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Shake in Wheel. Any Ideas?
I get a shake/vibration in my stearing wheel when driving between the speeds of 40-50 mph. My first thought was that my wheels were off balance because the vibration was only coming from the wheel. the rest of the car was not shaking nor sensing any vibrations elsewhere. I went to the shop and had them balance and rotate my tires. The problem is still there.. 
My front end seems pretty tight. I take turns tight and everything holds tight. Does anyone have any ideas as to what can cause this shaking/vibrations in my stearing wheel when moving around 40-50 mph? Any ideas would be great, cause im stumpted. THanks.
My front end seems pretty tight. I take turns tight and everything holds tight. Does anyone have any ideas as to what can cause this shaking/vibrations in my stearing wheel when moving around 40-50 mph? Any ideas would be great, cause im stumpted. THanks.
09-29-2003 | 06:35 PM
#3
Super Siver & Black Stud
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,526
From: Hayward Ca
could be a few things... worn out wheel bearing.. but then youd hear it... iregular tire wear... or lopsided rim... or the guy that ballanced your wheel did a **** poor job at doing it... id bring it back to see if he did it right...
09-30-2003 | 07:20 PM
#5
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 131
From: Southside of Atlanta Georgia
shakey wheels
you jack front tires off ground and support your Z, check for play in your bearings by lifting the tire and feeling it move.There should be slight movement, spin tire listen, should be smooth roll. If you think rim could be bent set bottle beside tire, spin tire and looking at gap between bottle and tire. If gap grows and shrinks a great deal then rim is bent, if gap remains same then rim is straight. You should also run hands around tires and feel for lumps..........
10-02-2003 | 01:13 PM
#8
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 131
From: Southside of Atlanta Georgia
luggs
I think what dudes talking about is like on mine as well. When I bought the car it had the wrong lugs on the factory rims. They were short shoulder luggs and should have been long. If this was the case that it was causing vibration you should be able to look at where the lugs contact the rims and see any damage they might have caused. The holes in your rim would no longer be round or would be beat out of shape..
10-28-2003 | 09:02 AM
#14
The Evil Twin
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,296
From: Seattle, WA
Lucky guess... 
If its at the shop, how do you know that is the problem? After you pay them $238 to replace the tie rods there may still be a vibration, correct? But at least you'll have a tighter front end. Maybe it'll shake harder!
If its at the shop, how do you know that is the problem? After you pay them $238 to replace the tie rods there may still be a vibration, correct? But at least you'll have a tighter front end. Maybe it'll shake harder!
10-28-2003 | 02:44 PM
#16
The Evil Twin
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,296
From: Seattle, WA
Wow! So even if you still have a shake, its good you got those replaced now!
Cross your fingers. But if you can, I still say check those rotors...
Those wheels you have are the problem wheels. Even with the factory lug nuts, they'll sometimes bolt on off-center.
Take two accorn "steel wheel" lug nuts and gently bolt them on two opposing lugs. The tapered shape of the accorn lug nuts will center the wheel around the set of four bolts; even with a 1/32 inch of slop. Then tighten down two of your factory lug nuts on the two exposed bolts. Remove the accorn lug nuts and tighten down the other two factory lug nuts. Repeat on all four wheels. This bolts the wheel on as close to centered as is possible. I found that replacing my wheels (from the 6-star to aftermaket wheels) got rid of almost all of my steering wheel shake.
Cross your fingers. But if you can, I still say check those rotors...
Those wheels you have are the problem wheels. Even with the factory lug nuts, they'll sometimes bolt on off-center.
Take two accorn "steel wheel" lug nuts and gently bolt them on two opposing lugs. The tapered shape of the accorn lug nuts will center the wheel around the set of four bolts; even with a 1/32 inch of slop. Then tighten down two of your factory lug nuts on the two exposed bolts. Remove the accorn lug nuts and tighten down the other two factory lug nuts. Repeat on all four wheels. This bolts the wheel on as close to centered as is possible. I found that replacing my wheels (from the 6-star to aftermaket wheels) got rid of almost all of my steering wheel shake.
10-28-2003 | 03:49 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Just got the car back! the tie rod was the problem! yay! No more shakes or shimmers. Wasn't alot of money... 35bucks for each side plus an hour labor... and a re alignment...
Thank god :-)
Next thing i need to replace is struts... everything is minor body work that I would like to have done... Thanks for all the help guys!
Thank god :-)
Next thing i need to replace is struts... everything is minor body work that I would like to have done... Thanks for all the help guys!
10-29-2003 | 09:18 AM
#19
The Evil Twin
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,296
From: Seattle, WA
Excellent! One down, 485 things left to fix.
I've seen those tie rod ends priced at $60-90 each just for the part! I keep mine greased and with fresh boots on them to hopefully spare their life, and my bank account. Ok, I need to replace my rotors now.
- - - - - - - - -
Bleach does not envy Skully...
I've seen those tie rod ends priced at $60-90 each just for the part! I keep mine greased and with fresh boots on them to hopefully spare their life, and my bank account. Ok, I need to replace my rotors now.
- - - - - - - - -
Bleach does not envy Skully...
03-02-2004 | 11:34 AM
#22
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 236
From: Waukesha, WI
Nah then thats not the problem. I have factory rims and factory lugs...
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