280zx bogs, overheats, and sounds like a subaru(not in a good way)
#1
280zx bogs, overheats, and sounds like a subaru(not in a good way)
hello thanks for reading in on this i really appreciate it......so i have several problem with my stick 83 N/a Z
1st is..the car runs at almost 3/4 of the way on the temp gauge replaced everything but the radiator(but took it out several times and washed it out)
thermostat, wp, sensors, fan clutch, hoses. problem still persist. i even added a pusher fan too...
second. the car sounds like a subaru but not in a good way like if one of the cyls were not functioning. i messed with dist timing, helped advancing it but pinged like hell... stumped(hint of fuel odor sometimes comes up)
fuel pressure regulator?
any help is apreciated thanks...
1st is..the car runs at almost 3/4 of the way on the temp gauge replaced everything but the radiator(but took it out several times and washed it out)
thermostat, wp, sensors, fan clutch, hoses. problem still persist. i even added a pusher fan too...
second. the car sounds like a subaru but not in a good way like if one of the cyls were not functioning. i messed with dist timing, helped advancing it but pinged like hell... stumped(hint of fuel odor sometimes comes up)
fuel pressure regulator?
any help is apreciated thanks...
#2
Possible, you could have a dead cylinder. And maybe a burnt valve? Just a stab. Did you check your oil? And see if it is milky? Are you losing coolant? Also are one or more of the cylinders not firing? Anyway, could be numerous things that could cause it. Supply us with more things. And maybe we can point you in the right direction. Good luck
#4
depending on the stock gage system for an accurate temp reading is like trying to win the lottery. See if you can borrow one of those infrared guns and get an accurate reading. Radiator might be plugged. if you could find the fuel pressure, vacuum, compression readings and post them you could get better help. How do your plug wires look, dizzy cap and rotor. Use a timing light and see what your ignition is doing.
#5
infrared thermometer is the next thing will do.
but i also suspect a clogged radiator. i changed the head gasket before to add a n42, turns out the head had a crack, so i put the original back on. then this.
...as for the bogging it runs good, but when it gets warmer it happens, so i think the over heating and the bogging are somehow connected. is it possible that after many years gas has eaten out the internals of the pressure reg?
but i also suspect a clogged radiator. i changed the head gasket before to add a n42, turns out the head had a crack, so i put the original back on. then this.
...as for the bogging it runs good, but when it gets warmer it happens, so i think the over heating and the bogging are somehow connected. is it possible that after many years gas has eaten out the internals of the pressure reg?
#7
how would i know if the chts is bad?
i disconnected it it slowly drops idle and almost to the point it wants to turn off
..Good> bad?
i had a proble with the felpro 8799pt
some of the coolant holes were closed off, so i used the older head gasket from felpro also...but the orig head is good. had it checked and resurfaced.
oh and by the way... would taking the heat shields off the manifolds cause a over heat problem?
i disconnected it it slowly drops idle and almost to the point it wants to turn off
..Good> bad?
i had a proble with the felpro 8799pt
some of the coolant holes were closed off, so i used the older head gasket from felpro also...but the orig head is good. had it checked and resurfaced.
oh and by the way... would taking the heat shields off the manifolds cause a over heat problem?
#8
how would i know if the chts is bad?
i disconnected it it slowly drops idle and almost to the point it wants to turn off
..Good> bad?
i had a proble with the felpro 8799pt
some of the coolant holes were closed off, so i used the older head gasket from felpro also...but the orig head is good. had it checked and resurfaced.
oh and by the way... would taking the heat shields off the manifolds cause a over heat problem?
i disconnected it it slowly drops idle and almost to the point it wants to turn off
..Good> bad?
i had a proble with the felpro 8799pt
some of the coolant holes were closed off, so i used the older head gasket from felpro also...but the orig head is good. had it checked and resurfaced.
oh and by the way... would taking the heat shields off the manifolds cause a over heat problem?
From my experience, taking the heat shields off the manifolds. Do not cause any problems. And you eliminate, having to fight with those things later on. Those are one of the first things to come off. When I work on my Z's. Makes it a lot easier to work on it, after you take them off. One of the best upgrades in my opinion. And also from my experience. Is get an exhaust header, and ditch that stock exhaust manifold. One of the bad things, they put on these cars.
Anyway, have you checked your oil for milkiness? And your timing should be 8 degrees before top dead center. Also, when you rev the engine. Do you get coolant shooting out the overflow? Also check your plugs, and see how they look. There are lots of things, you can check, and troubleshoot. Also see if you are losing coolant.
#9
i did check for symptoms of a head gasket...
coolant is clear...oil is...oil color...not milky ...tried checking timing, but the little metal piece is missing, i got one from the junk yard but somehow i dont remember how it went...
i ordered header wrap to see if it will help a little bit
thanks for the advise
coolant is clear...oil is...oil color...not milky ...tried checking timing, but the little metal piece is missing, i got one from the junk yard but somehow i dont remember how it went...
i ordered header wrap to see if it will help a little bit
thanks for the advise
#12
What happened? Did you check yet? Don't be like me and let your Z sit for a year before finally getting your ***** in order to fix it!
I barely remember what it even sounds like anymore.
#13
im beginning to give up....i wrapped the headers put the heat shields back on. same friggin problems. compression was one sixty changed coil dist cap n rotor wires fuel filter only things left is tps n fuel pump n reg
#15
do a power balance test. as its running unplug one injector at a time. when one gets pulled off and the engine has no change in how its running itll give you the cylinder that is not running correctly. if they all make the engin run more poorly equally, then you have an engine control problem. try that and get back on here. we can help solve it easily if you keep at it and listen. dont spend any more coin until you narrow it down. good to hear about the comp check.. sounds good for stock to me.
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