280zxt 82/83
#1
280zxt 82/83
Hello, new owner ... fairly novice.
In January I got a 280zx Turbo Manual in So Cal. It seems to be in good condition and the previous owner seemed respectable. The engine seems just fine (I've driven others so I had some idea) and when it runs well it's really fun.
I've been reading through posts so I tried to use the search feature first before posting to no avail so sorry if there's some obvious search (Sorry NismoPick).
I have a load of little problems that I'm able to fix like doors not and unlocking properly or windows needing to be lubricated (have both the electric ones). What I was hoping to diagnose were 3 main issues I've got.
First is that when I am shifting up in gear (at least this is when it's most noticeable) ~3k rpm 2nd to 3rd 3rd to 4th mainly is when I can hear it most clearly -- it sounds like I'm driving over a grate when I'm lifting off the clutch to put it in gear. What I want to know is perhaps how serious this issue is and perhaps where to ask someone to check for issues. I'd also like to know if it's related to the shifter getting stuck sometimes and not wanting to go into 1st or 2nd, I end up just having to jam it in there, there's no sound accompanying this, it just won't click into the right spot. However, almost every time I try to go into reverse it seems like the gears don't line up and it scratches into place.
Problem 2 - Air conditioning. Previous owner had a new radiator put in and and recharched AC, which blows cold (awesome). However, once I get going then it seems like some flaps get out of place (I read about them just flapping around here) and it stops blowing, it also feels like the defroster is open (but not blowing) when this happens so it gets really hot (not fun). There also seems to be a delay for the AC turning on however I haven't documented any consistency. So what I'm wondering if there is some simple fix for this issue like replacing a spring or something of that nature. I tried to check hoses for cracks and nothing wrong was noticeable (to an untrained eye anyway).
My third most important issue is the "brainbox" seems to be goofy. Previous owner told me that he frequently drenched connections in contact cleaner and that "if it runs like crap, just unplug everything and plug it back in." I got my oil changed and couldn't get it over 20 mph with loads of misfires, remembered his words and pulled over unplugged/ plugged back in. Worked fine again although still seems to be some power lacking. Since then I tried to wick out the excess cleaner to see if that might be some part of the problem but I really can't tell. So I'm fairly certain that at least the majority of any lack of power seems to be related to this electrical unit and I was wondering how big of a deal it is to replace as well as move it to a more convenient location because as of right now, It's right on top of where the foot rest would be for when my foot isn't on the clutch peddle (minor annoyance really) and if it wasn't a big deal to move I'd try to move it to behind the radio or something of that nature.
I'm sort of driving this car like a teenage around town, getting around 16-17 mpg which I assumed was within reason considering my driving habits and it almost entirely being city driving / electrical issues. Usually going along 2500rpm in fourth.
Side questions that I don't mind being unanswered:
Has anyone tried to replace the radio with a touch screen. I have an aftermarket sony radio and speakers that are unacceptable ever since my ears heard a superior quality monsoon system that makes everything else sound like garbage that I was hoping to replace at some point.
My cruise control isn't working and I can't even tell how broken it is.
Rear defroster doesn't seem to work, I have the kind that has I believe it says auto and timer. I know at least power goes to the hatch since the wiper works fine so perhaps just that wire could be broken since neither mode work?
I live near Shinzo Auto Service in Irvine, CA. Anyone have experience with them? There's a guy that lives down the street from me with an extremely nice (I believe to be 280zx) which I suspect to have left me a flier for them so that's about all I have to go on. They're also where I will probably end up going to check all my stuff out.
Anyway, all help is greatly appreciated.
Pics:
Got the seats redone in all leather and same colors, they turn out awesome.
In January I got a 280zx Turbo Manual in So Cal. It seems to be in good condition and the previous owner seemed respectable. The engine seems just fine (I've driven others so I had some idea) and when it runs well it's really fun.
I've been reading through posts so I tried to use the search feature first before posting to no avail so sorry if there's some obvious search (Sorry NismoPick).
I have a load of little problems that I'm able to fix like doors not and unlocking properly or windows needing to be lubricated (have both the electric ones). What I was hoping to diagnose were 3 main issues I've got.
First is that when I am shifting up in gear (at least this is when it's most noticeable) ~3k rpm 2nd to 3rd 3rd to 4th mainly is when I can hear it most clearly -- it sounds like I'm driving over a grate when I'm lifting off the clutch to put it in gear. What I want to know is perhaps how serious this issue is and perhaps where to ask someone to check for issues. I'd also like to know if it's related to the shifter getting stuck sometimes and not wanting to go into 1st or 2nd, I end up just having to jam it in there, there's no sound accompanying this, it just won't click into the right spot. However, almost every time I try to go into reverse it seems like the gears don't line up and it scratches into place.
Problem 2 - Air conditioning. Previous owner had a new radiator put in and and recharched AC, which blows cold (awesome). However, once I get going then it seems like some flaps get out of place (I read about them just flapping around here) and it stops blowing, it also feels like the defroster is open (but not blowing) when this happens so it gets really hot (not fun). There also seems to be a delay for the AC turning on however I haven't documented any consistency. So what I'm wondering if there is some simple fix for this issue like replacing a spring or something of that nature. I tried to check hoses for cracks and nothing wrong was noticeable (to an untrained eye anyway).
My third most important issue is the "brainbox" seems to be goofy. Previous owner told me that he frequently drenched connections in contact cleaner and that "if it runs like crap, just unplug everything and plug it back in." I got my oil changed and couldn't get it over 20 mph with loads of misfires, remembered his words and pulled over unplugged/ plugged back in. Worked fine again although still seems to be some power lacking. Since then I tried to wick out the excess cleaner to see if that might be some part of the problem but I really can't tell. So I'm fairly certain that at least the majority of any lack of power seems to be related to this electrical unit and I was wondering how big of a deal it is to replace as well as move it to a more convenient location because as of right now, It's right on top of where the foot rest would be for when my foot isn't on the clutch peddle (minor annoyance really) and if it wasn't a big deal to move I'd try to move it to behind the radio or something of that nature.
I'm sort of driving this car like a teenage around town, getting around 16-17 mpg which I assumed was within reason considering my driving habits and it almost entirely being city driving / electrical issues. Usually going along 2500rpm in fourth.
Side questions that I don't mind being unanswered:
Has anyone tried to replace the radio with a touch screen. I have an aftermarket sony radio and speakers that are unacceptable ever since my ears heard a superior quality monsoon system that makes everything else sound like garbage that I was hoping to replace at some point.
My cruise control isn't working and I can't even tell how broken it is.
Rear defroster doesn't seem to work, I have the kind that has I believe it says auto and timer. I know at least power goes to the hatch since the wiper works fine so perhaps just that wire could be broken since neither mode work?
I live near Shinzo Auto Service in Irvine, CA. Anyone have experience with them? There's a guy that lives down the street from me with an extremely nice (I believe to be 280zx) which I suspect to have left me a flier for them so that's about all I have to go on. They're also where I will probably end up going to check all my stuff out.
Anyway, all help is greatly appreciated.
Pics:
Got the seats redone in all leather and same colors, they turn out awesome.
#2
Welcome to ZDriver!
<I only tell people to search when they ask stuff like "How can I get 23407578470925339723hp for free like all dem Honda peepz?!!?">
Problem 1:
Could be the throw out bearing, could be a simple need to flush the hydraulic line, could be a dying transmission. A sound clip would help since it's really hard to diagnose sound problems without hearing them.
Problem 2:
Pretty common problem. The vents work via vacuum. The n/a model just uses manifold vacuum stored in a tank, so after a few seconds of full throttle, no more vacuum, and the ports default to floor & defrost. Turbo model has a vacuum pump w/ tank... but it sounds like yours isn't kicking on. Verify by turning the key to ON (not start), turn on the fan, and listen for the quiet "rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" by the engine bay light.
Problem 3:
Brainbox means "ecu" right? There's no easy way to relocate it... and no need. The turbo ecu connections are notorious for being loose and corroded. The most simple solution is to upgrade to Z31 ecu connections (might as well go w/ a Z31T ecu and MAF while you're at it). Cut and splice the connections. I've discussed it in detail here.
Side question:
I've seen several 280zx's w/ slide out screen displays (I believe our member Heat Rave R has one?). The major issue is the location relative to the shifter.
Cruise control is run by vacuum and the speed sensor. Your problem is probably vacuum related to the pump or lines as stated above.
<I only tell people to search when they ask stuff like "How can I get 23407578470925339723hp for free like all dem Honda peepz?!!?">
Problem 1:
Could be the throw out bearing, could be a simple need to flush the hydraulic line, could be a dying transmission. A sound clip would help since it's really hard to diagnose sound problems without hearing them.
Problem 2:
Pretty common problem. The vents work via vacuum. The n/a model just uses manifold vacuum stored in a tank, so after a few seconds of full throttle, no more vacuum, and the ports default to floor & defrost. Turbo model has a vacuum pump w/ tank... but it sounds like yours isn't kicking on. Verify by turning the key to ON (not start), turn on the fan, and listen for the quiet "rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" by the engine bay light.
Problem 3:
Brainbox means "ecu" right? There's no easy way to relocate it... and no need. The turbo ecu connections are notorious for being loose and corroded. The most simple solution is to upgrade to Z31 ecu connections (might as well go w/ a Z31T ecu and MAF while you're at it). Cut and splice the connections. I've discussed it in detail here.
Side question:
I've seen several 280zx's w/ slide out screen displays (I believe our member Heat Rave R has one?). The major issue is the location relative to the shifter.
Cruise control is run by vacuum and the speed sensor. Your problem is probably vacuum related to the pump or lines as stated above.
#3
Had some time to investigate this vacuum pump (or lack thereof). So, this seems to line up with it not kicking in: I tried flipping the cruise control on while stopped and saw the green light flip on for the first time. It made a fairly loud 'rrrr' sound while the switch was on. The light also stayed on while I was driving normally but the sound seemed to come and go with the air conditioning (hard to tell really). What I do know though is that this sound doesn't come on with the air conditioning, only when I flip the cruise control switch.
Also, wondering how much this new ecu etc might cost me (as I don't plan to royally mess it up myself).
Was kinda excited, reseated the plugs in the ecu mid day today, was a sorta warm out and car ran wonderfully. So ... at least I'm still sure most if not all the misfire issues are ecu related.
I honestly don't think I could really make a good enough quality video (sound wise) to diagnose the clutch issue but I'm sure this guy I plan to take it to will be able to figure it out much better than someone via internet anyway.
Thanks for the help so far.
Oh yea, I thought of another sort of minor problem. The windows really rattle around when they are not rolled all the way up. Is there something that's missing maybe to support them or is that just the way they are? It's a little scary sometimes ... they don't move much but ... last thing I need is to have to find a new window.
Also, wondering how much this new ecu etc might cost me (as I don't plan to royally mess it up myself).
Was kinda excited, reseated the plugs in the ecu mid day today, was a sorta warm out and car ran wonderfully. So ... at least I'm still sure most if not all the misfire issues are ecu related.
I honestly don't think I could really make a good enough quality video (sound wise) to diagnose the clutch issue but I'm sure this guy I plan to take it to will be able to figure it out much better than someone via internet anyway.
Thanks for the help so far.
Oh yea, I thought of another sort of minor problem. The windows really rattle around when they are not rolled all the way up. Is there something that's missing maybe to support them or is that just the way they are? It's a little scary sometimes ... they don't move much but ... last thing I need is to have to find a new window.
#4
what year is it. there are slight differences between the 81 and 2/3. those snowflake wheels were stock on the 81 (I think). what you using to clean connectors. Deoxit by CAIG is the best.
Some Info I tell everyone new to s130
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. all those things will make you think you are driving a diffent car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
Nice looking machine. Your CHTS could be a problem with strange weirdness while driving. It is located close by the #5 spark plug. NOT THE TEMP SENSOR FOR THE GAGE. causes confusion. the chts is a two wire sensor the temp gage one wire. download the fsm from xenon and start reading.
cruise control and climate control usually related to vac problems as stated. the cruise needs two plastic buttons that are contacted by the brake/clutch pedals to operate the switches (and vacuum) that disconnect the unit when you use them. those are often missing.
wiper nothing to do with the defrost. If you push the switch the other way from auto it manually sends electricity to defrost for a timed period. If you get no action that way then the conductors on the glass are shot. if you clean the sensor on the lower part of the rear glass with alchohol it sometimes makes the auto feature work.
Some Info I tell everyone new to s130
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.
Clean the connectors for the maf, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. all those things will make you think you are driving a diffent car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
Nice looking machine. Your CHTS could be a problem with strange weirdness while driving. It is located close by the #5 spark plug. NOT THE TEMP SENSOR FOR THE GAGE. causes confusion. the chts is a two wire sensor the temp gage one wire. download the fsm from xenon and start reading.
cruise control and climate control usually related to vac problems as stated. the cruise needs two plastic buttons that are contacted by the brake/clutch pedals to operate the switches (and vacuum) that disconnect the unit when you use them. those are often missing.
wiper nothing to do with the defrost. If you push the switch the other way from auto it manually sends electricity to defrost for a timed period. If you get no action that way then the conductors on the glass are shot. if you clean the sensor on the lower part of the rear glass with alchohol it sometimes makes the auto feature work.
#5
just an update on the AC / cruise ... I replaced all the fuses underneath the glove box just to see if it helped and now instead of the AC turning off completely once I get going it sounds like it's on but won't blow. Before it would completely turn off until (I assume) the pressure built up again. The cruise light came on after that as well although I'm not sure if I just don't know how to work it or not but at least things seem to be less broken than before.
I finally remembered to ask someone to help see if I could hear anything by the engine bay light. I read that all the AC parts were along the right side I think but I only heard a noise that coincided with the check lights on the dash that seemed to be coming from the engine. So I think ... the vacuum is probably busted / I don't really know.
The serials on my car say it's an 83 by the way. I didn't check what the one under the hood that starts with K said though.
I finally remembered to ask someone to help see if I could hear anything by the engine bay light. I read that all the AC parts were along the right side I think but I only heard a noise that coincided with the check lights on the dash that seemed to be coming from the engine. So I think ... the vacuum is probably busted / I don't really know.
The serials on my car say it's an 83 by the way. I didn't check what the one under the hood that starts with K said though.
#6
Nice ZXT, Shinzo Auto from what I remember did work on the early S30 Zcars, but they may have expanded to include the S130 now.
I'm guessing your a/c system is the auto climate control. If the blower is failing to turn on, it might be the blower motor relay attached to the bottom of the blower. It's held in by 2 screws or bolts that you can see if you're on your back looking at the blower motor. (I don't own a Z anymore so I'm going off memory now) If the vacuum lines aren't hooked up right at the pump by the underhood light, you can get that whirring sound without any actual a/c working. Use the FSM to check the routing.
The cruise control mechanism is located by the battery. You can also check to see if your speedometer has the Hall sensor attached to it to allow the cruise to work. Without it, there will be no signal for the system to work off of. It looks like a little black piece of plastic with a metal tab attached to it.
You can have a dvd/flip out screen, but you can't have it open up if the car is in anything but 2nd, 4th or reverse. Otherwise, the screen will hit the shifter. Once the screen is out, it's no problem, but it will cover your climate controls.
I'm guessing your a/c system is the auto climate control. If the blower is failing to turn on, it might be the blower motor relay attached to the bottom of the blower. It's held in by 2 screws or bolts that you can see if you're on your back looking at the blower motor. (I don't own a Z anymore so I'm going off memory now) If the vacuum lines aren't hooked up right at the pump by the underhood light, you can get that whirring sound without any actual a/c working. Use the FSM to check the routing.
The cruise control mechanism is located by the battery. You can also check to see if your speedometer has the Hall sensor attached to it to allow the cruise to work. Without it, there will be no signal for the system to work off of. It looks like a little black piece of plastic with a metal tab attached to it.
You can have a dvd/flip out screen, but you can't have it open up if the car is in anything but 2nd, 4th or reverse. Otherwise, the screen will hit the shifter. Once the screen is out, it's no problem, but it will cover your climate controls.
#7
You can also install a double DIN unit but it requries some custom fabrication to get it in there and you loose the ash tray.
Also re: changing the bushing with urethane. If you do that on the TC rods MAKE SURE you replace one of the two bushing with the stock rubber ones otherwise you will stress and break the TC rod.
Also re: changing the bushing with urethane. If you do that on the TC rods MAKE SURE you replace one of the two bushing with the stock rubber ones otherwise you will stress and break the TC rod.
#8
Just an update. Took the car in, got a load of things fixed after the car pooped out on me right before I made it home. Turned out that the noise I was experiencing was some serious transmission and clutch issues which had to be completely replaced. It's great though, feels like a completely different car. New suspension and all that since it was probably the original. Only practical issue is just waiting for the thing to warm up, but that doesn't take too long.
Just about the only annoying things I've got left are more cosmetic fixes. Also the guy I took it to said that he couldn't find a decent quality turn signal/hazard switch combo for the money. Mentioned that you can special order the part from Nissan but it's some outrageous price like $400+. For now I can fandangle the hazards for when I need them. He also wasn't entirely sure why the vacuum wasn't working, but I figured it just wasn't essential for me to get fixed now.
I did come across a new question though which was basically: how hard would it be to replace the original rubber around the windows / hatch etc. It's all kinda worn (super dry here is So Cal.) and some parts actually leak into the car a little bit.
Good times overall though!
Just about the only annoying things I've got left are more cosmetic fixes. Also the guy I took it to said that he couldn't find a decent quality turn signal/hazard switch combo for the money. Mentioned that you can special order the part from Nissan but it's some outrageous price like $400+. For now I can fandangle the hazards for when I need them. He also wasn't entirely sure why the vacuum wasn't working, but I figured it just wasn't essential for me to get fixed now.
I did come across a new question though which was basically: how hard would it be to replace the original rubber around the windows / hatch etc. It's all kinda worn (super dry here is So Cal.) and some parts actually leak into the car a little bit.
Good times overall though!
#10
I still have my weird missfires issue that I have had before where I reset (unplug everything an plug back in) the ECU to temporarily resolve. Unfortunately it seems that just the frequency I had to do this is slightly less than before. What I started to notice though, since everyone seems to say that it's fairly unlikely hat the ECU itself is the culprit and therefor something is causing too many errors for it to handle, is that each time I get a warning light for my headlights once I start having the issues. The lights sort of flicker and the engine begins to not run as smoothly (I only notice th lights at night when usin them). Resetting seems to fix everything ... Was hoping that this clue might help narrow things down.
My mechanic couldn't seem to figure out what was the deal either but since I'm havin the same sort of warm start initial idling issues that I'm reading about in another thread, perhaps the problem is related/the same? Perhaps unrelated is that although the temp gauge is making a perfect connection, it flickers on and off seemingly at random. Like I said before though, just warming it up seems to be the only issue with the idling. I do recall reading in he official little owners booklet that previous owner still had that you should "fully depress the gas pedal when starting after a short period on hot days." However, it's just about always 75F here. Don't really think that is hot. /shrug
My mechanic couldn't seem to figure out what was the deal either but since I'm havin the same sort of warm start initial idling issues that I'm reading about in another thread, perhaps the problem is related/the same? Perhaps unrelated is that although the temp gauge is making a perfect connection, it flickers on and off seemingly at random. Like I said before though, just warming it up seems to be the only issue with the idling. I do recall reading in he official little owners booklet that previous owner still had that you should "fully depress the gas pedal when starting after a short period on hot days." However, it's just about always 75F here. Don't really think that is hot. /shrug
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