280zxturbo gauges?
06-08-2006, 06:10 PM
#1
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Location: z junk yard
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280zxturbo gauges?
Hey u guys i was messing around with the screw on the gas pedal its ment to open the throttle body from what i have learned.. anyways my car runs alot better but my only question is the GAUGE above the stock boost gague is now reading.. the gauge says 160* - 320 * latly since i have opened my throttle body its starting to work now.. 200 * a little bit what is it supose to read ? also.. i changed out the cyclendar head temp sensor.. now when i installed it.. was i supose to put some motor oil in it for it to read ? or not ? just questions.. please no rude remarks .. =-)
1990 300zx n/a/
1993 300zx n/a 2+2 pimp ride lol
1982 280zx turbo 2+2.. honda killer
1990 300zx n/a/
1993 300zx n/a 2+2 pimp ride lol
1982 280zx turbo 2+2.. honda killer
06-08-2006, 06:41 PM
#2
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Location: Temecula, CA
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whoa there buddy...I think you're referring to the oil temperature gauge. And if you are it's above the oil pressure gauge, not the boost gauge. Is the gauge you're referring to all the way on the left??? Cause the boost gauge should be in the middle. The gauges on the left are the oil temp/pressure gauges. It's a combo gauge: two gauges in one, right?
And finally, the cylinder head temp sensor reads the temp of the coolant. Not oil temp. So no, you dont add oil there.
EDIT: and on the oil temp gauge: I drove my turbo from OH to VA and the oil temp gauge never even registered unless I was pulling up through some mountains. Then it would register above the minimum temp.
And finally, the cylinder head temp sensor reads the temp of the coolant. Not oil temp. So no, you dont add oil there.
EDIT: and on the oil temp gauge: I drove my turbo from OH to VA and the oil temp gauge never even registered unless I was pulling up through some mountains. Then it would register above the minimum temp.
Last edited by jfairladyz; 06-08-2006 at 06:44 PM.
06-08-2006, 07:13 PM
#4
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Location: Temecula, CA
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it's the oil temperature gauge. It depends on what your oil temperature is. Mine just stayed cool enough most of the time to the point where the needle basically just stayed on the 160* mark most of the time. But I didn't really get on the car cause it was having issues at the time. But when I was boosting up hills (the only time I went into boost on that trip), the the gauge would start to move up to a higher temperature.
06-08-2006, 08:00 PM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 9,221
The normal operating temp is based solely on the load on the engine at the time.
When driving normally, the temp should sit at or near the bottom reading on the gauge.
When loading the engine, it will read higer...
It doesn't work like the water temp where there's a thermostat that keeps the water temp from 'going too low'.
You should also notice the water temp going up when you see your oil temp going up.
There's nothing in the water cooling system that prevents the water from increasing in temp based on engine load, it only keeps the water temp from dropping too low by not circulating as much water through the radiator.
Dude, you gotta work on your spelling and grammar. It may be easy for you to understand, because you're the one thinking about it, but the rest of us have to try and decipher it and most of the time it doesn't even look like english.
Try to keep each question in it's own sentence. And try to use an actual sentence structure. I promise, it'll help you later in life.
I actually didn't have any idea what you were talking about until I read J's reply...
When driving normally, the temp should sit at or near the bottom reading on the gauge.
When loading the engine, it will read higer...
It doesn't work like the water temp where there's a thermostat that keeps the water temp from 'going too low'.
You should also notice the water temp going up when you see your oil temp going up.
There's nothing in the water cooling system that prevents the water from increasing in temp based on engine load, it only keeps the water temp from dropping too low by not circulating as much water through the radiator.
Dude, you gotta work on your spelling and grammar. It may be easy for you to understand, because you're the one thinking about it, but the rest of us have to try and decipher it and most of the time it doesn't even look like english.
Try to keep each question in it's own sentence. And try to use an actual sentence structure. I promise, it'll help you later in life.
I actually didn't have any idea what you were talking about until I read J's reply...
06-08-2006, 08:23 PM
#8
Originally Posted by lww
The normal operating temp is based solely on the load on the engine at the time.
When driving normally, the temp should sit at or near the bottom reading on the gauge.
When loading the engine, it will read higer...
It doesn't work like the water temp where there's a thermostat that keeps the water temp from 'going too low'.
You should also notice the water temp going up when you see your oil temp going up.
There's nothing in the water cooling system that prevents the water from increasing in temp based on engine load, it only keeps the water temp from dropping too low by not circulating as much water through the radiator.
When driving normally, the temp should sit at or near the bottom reading on the gauge.
When loading the engine, it will read higer...
It doesn't work like the water temp where there's a thermostat that keeps the water temp from 'going too low'.
You should also notice the water temp going up when you see your oil temp going up.
There's nothing in the water cooling system that prevents the water from increasing in temp based on engine load, it only keeps the water temp from dropping too low by not circulating as much water through the radiator.
One other thing... oil takes longer to heat up, and also cool down, than water. Why? Because it thicker (more viscous) than water & has a higher heat capacity... thus the reason it is used to lube engines.
06-08-2006, 11:37 PM
#11
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Temecula, CA
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Originally Posted by nismo619
its ok .. i found out the normal temp... thanks nismopick ....
p.s. i apologize if you all cant understand what im saying.. i passed english class with a D - ...... no joke..
p.s. i apologize if you all cant understand what im saying.. i passed english class with a D - ...... no joke..
06-09-2006, 08:12 AM
#12
Originally Posted by jfairladyz
Did you read nothing above??? There is no "normal" operating temp.
06-09-2006, 10:33 AM
#13
Head Muckraker
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 9,221
Normal is whatever the gauge is reading at that moment under that load condition. Unless your oil cooler is bypassed, broken or leaking.
The key is to not exceed the 'safe' operating temperature of your oil.
The key is to not exceed the 'safe' operating temperature of your oil.
06-09-2006, 12:00 PM
#14
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question i got the oil cooler on and it works fine.. under hard boost.. 9 to 10 psi and holding into 5,500 rpm range in 5th gear i saw it read close to 220 * so that is normal and when i came back down it cooled down really fast.. i was just wondering becuase in this hot new mexico sun its working now.. its just i never saw it read during the cooler times...
06-09-2006, 01:54 PM
#16
Originally Posted by PooFlinginMonke
The only heating issue I have ever run into on z cars is the z31s that we ran in improved touring would spin a rod bearing once the car oil temp reached just over 300.
06-09-2006, 03:38 PM
#18
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Location: Temecula, CA
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can anyone verify if all the 280zx turbos had an oil cooler??? Or was it just specific years??? My turbo parts car was a turbo swap itself and I got it sans an oil cooler. Looked around on ebay at them, but for what they're going for on there I think I'll take care of a few more things first. I dont plan on driving her hard anytime soon anyways. Just got this road trip to worry about first.
06-09-2006, 11:37 PM
#22
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Houston Tx. Cleveland Tx. New Caney Tx. and every other Tx.
Posts: 532
well it really sucks when the money your spending, dosn't exist. If you know what I mean. But I gues thats when you can say your stuff was actually free, and just wait for the bank to kick your *** for pulling that kind of stunt.
06-10-2006, 06:39 AM
#23
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ok yall got if yall remeber right i had a 1981 280zx turbo auto matic.. yes i did dismatle the car a few months ago so i used a 1inch 3/8th open end wrench to get the bolts all undone then i took off the oil cooler used a high pressure water hose to get out all the old bugs, dirt, etc.. cleaned it up real nice high temp coated it with ford blue 550 high heat.. and i installed it on my 82 280zx turbo 2+2 pretty much a direct swap eazy install.. kinda i lost 1 or two of the o-ring groments.. so i have to go down and buy some washers.. etc.. the only thing i had a serious problem with was the old " oil filter screw" so i put on a peace of rubber hose around the threads and clamped down with a pair of vice grip and gave it my all.. pretty eazy if u ask me..
06-10-2006, 11:53 AM
#24
Externally Wastegated
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,220
J, if you can find a Turbo II RX-7, you can use the oil cooler off of them. A couple of guys on either hybrid or zcar used it with great results. Apparently it doesn't get heat soaked as fast as our stocker does.
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