'83 280ZX Turbo Question
#2
You CAN do anything. I wouldn't do it quite as simple as that though. Unless by configure you mean dealing with engine management and fueling needs. If you're talking a turbo off of an L28ET then you'll also need (atleast) the exhaust manifold and oil supply line. You should also grab the down pipe(you can have one made). Basically everything you need to do can be fabbed but it would be cheaper in the long run to just buy the entire motor from the junkyard and salvage all the parts you need from it. If you're not interested in aftermarket engine management than you should also grab the ECU off the car too. With that you'll also need the distributor and the crank sensor(on 81's). A wiring harness wouldn't hurt either. As you can probably tell by now it's not a smash and grab job, it's gonna take some effort to make it work, but it can definitely be done. But Your best bet is to just get a turbo engine complete.If you're talking about pulling a turbo off of a non-280zx then you'll have a lot more fabrication ahead of your as you'll need to make it work with you exhaust manifold which is gonna mean welding on a flange for it. Still better to just get a turbo engine complete though. You're gonna spend more in the long run if you don't.
#4
Originally Posted by Z*Tech
The compression will be too high on a normaly aspirated (NA) engine to work correctly with a turbo charger.
As the boost rises, so does the compression ratio. I calculated mine when I built my engine: at idle: 7.4:1 CR... at 12psi boost, it's about 13.5:1 CR. That's pretty bloody high. Now... if you're already @ 8.5:1 (I think that's stock n/a) then your CR will rise even more.
#6
Originally Posted by Z*Tech
Why turbo an engine if you can't safely run the boost?
Correctly means you do not cause damage to the engine
Correctly means you do not cause damage to the engine
#7
Actually, you can run high compression motors with a turbo. The issue is that your fuel management needs to be LIGHT years more advanced than the primitive computers that were cost effective options in 1982/83.
MegaSquirt & MAF conversion would be the minimum. MegaSquirt 2 would be the most tunable. SDS & TEC would also be good but expensive options.
Modern cars, Honda, Toyota, Nissan, etc. are running turbo's on 9 & 10:1 compression motors with upwards of 15psi (that I've personally seen) and some claim even more boost.
The key is to make sure you maintain proper fuel ratios and can dissipate the heat effectively enough to prevent detonation...
See, it's really simple to describe, just a b!tch and a half to put together in a practical and cost effective manner.
MegaSquirt & MAF conversion would be the minimum. MegaSquirt 2 would be the most tunable. SDS & TEC would also be good but expensive options.
Modern cars, Honda, Toyota, Nissan, etc. are running turbo's on 9 & 10:1 compression motors with upwards of 15psi (that I've personally seen) and some claim even more boost.
The key is to make sure you maintain proper fuel ratios and can dissipate the heat effectively enough to prevent detonation...
See, it's really simple to describe, just a b!tch and a half to put together in a practical and cost effective manner.
#8
Hell yeah it's do-able. I wouldn't touch the 7.4:1. It's just too low. I've seen boosted S2K's and those things are running crazy high c/r's. Emissions were a problem back then so compression ratios were brought way down. There are ways around that now so you'll hardly ever see a car produced now days with a c/r that low. It's closser to the NA's c/r on todays boosted cars. The WRX runs 8:1, the EVO runs 8.8:1, the 2JZ-8.5:1. I could go on, but I'm gettin tired of trying to find the numbers on my keyboard. The F54 will handle it, it's a stout block when in good condition. And starting with the higher compression ratio with a P79/90 head you will have a more efficient motor than starting with the lower compression ratio blocks. The only benefit of having the L28ET is that it's turn key where as the NA is going to require some work like EM as lww mentioned, as well as plumbing.
#9
Originally Posted by jfairladyz
And starting with the higher compression ratio with a P79/90 head you will have a more efficient motor than starting with the lower compression ratio blocks. The only benefit of having the L28ET is that it's turn key where as the NA is going to require some work like EM as lww mentioned, as well as plumbing.
#12
Originally Posted by NismoPick
The price of 110 octane almost makes me cringe more than doing a headgasket 5 times a year!
#13
Originally Posted by Z*Tech
The compression will be too high on a normaly aspirated (NA) engine to work correctly with a turbo charger.
My cousin put a turbo on his stock l28 with a p90 head (light ported) with a bigger airflow meter, 300z turbo and a small homade header he got for free welded a flange for the turbo and a stock eclipse ic
at 7 psi runs great
at first he ran it bone stock...now he has put a turbo fuel pump a fmu
going now to install a bigger ic and will be using 300z turbo injectors we'll see how that goes got a turbo xs boost contr. so the boost can be raised to 12 psi if everything goes right
I have asked the question here about the computer and the most answer I got ...was that you must go stanalone
we'll here is another example
this guy has a toyota tercel running 14.80 seen it at the track myself...talked to him ....he did put a bigger engine in it but stock ...with turbo, fuel pump, boost referenced fp regulator, ic , celica injectors and stock computer
Me I am in the proces in building a turbo inline 6 with a carburator blowthru setup..
Since most people tell me it's not possible
#14
Most of the folks I've talked to are trying to work on tired engines and after all these cars are getting a tad old.
If a person is really serious about a quick and responsive car then a different chassis is my recommendation.
If a person is really serious about a quick and responsive car then a different chassis is my recommendation.
#19
Originally Posted by NismoPick
P79 & P90 heads are different... P79 is for the n/a, P90 for the turbocharged... diff CR's too. I kinda disagree w/ the "higher compression ratio" for 280zxt's. the turbo setup was in my point of view, a greatly engineered motor & the only real step ups should be forged internals / valve work. When I built my engine, I shaved the head .020 & used a thinner autozone headgasket. It was almost 8:1 CR. I ended up blowing a hole in the headgasket @ 12 psi, so I opt'd for the 2mm MLS headgasket to lower it back to 7.4 & I can tell it runs better now. Lower CR's also create less stress & strain on the engine when I'm not racing it.
Yeah it would be easier to just use the L28ET to do the turbo swap. But what the point? I've already got an F54 block. Same as the turbo. The only difference is the pistons and the head. But wait, I've got a P90 head too that I'd be using whether going turbo or not and I paid $35 for. So to invest in a turbo motor would be a waste of my funds if I'm not planning on running any part of that motor other than the block and head that I already have. (head came with exhaust manifold).
I'm not just some kid who stepped up from a Civic and got a Z and now I think I know everything. I've done more research on this subject then I care to think about. On top of that research, I've got plenty of experience blowing crap up. As well as not blowing crap up. Though I think it's more important to blow crap up so you can test the limits . And until someone can say they built a bullet proof motor and built it right without cutting any corners and still managed to put a slug through it then I'm set in my ways of "it can done until someone proves it can't" If someone blew an Autozone gasket then damnit I'll try a Pep boys gasket until I find what WILL work. I appreciate the fact that you've actually tried and had a failure with the higher compression ratio thing Nismo. It's when people who have no experience with something but their cousin who's friend is dating the sister of this guy who's uncle used to be married to the mother of some guy who blew up his Z because he tried to push 40psi through a 300,000 mile motor with a leaky headgasket and a fouled spark plug on 85 octane and no air filter. EVERY situation is different. The whole point is to learn from others mistakes and improve upon them (that's why we took History, right). For those who are happy with their cars the way they are and are just content with getting from point a to point b, you'll NEVER understand the passion that comes with what I'm trying to do. 451HP, right s/c I don't mean to preach but I really do hate when people say it can't be done. With a little education in what you're trying to do and little know how, it CAN be done. And it WILL be done. Somebody will always do something that people say can't be done. And then somebody will do it better than that. It's a fact of life.
#20
And I thought the original poster on this question only wanted to know if he could go to a yard and just get the parts to swap from N/A to turbo, on his original engine.
I do not personally enjoy working many hours and then destroying what I've created. Working on a Z, getting performance and handling and enjoying the ride is more to my liking.
You remember how it feels, leaning into the curves and enjoying the feel when everything performs well. That was the Z thing thirty six years ago and its still there today.
I do not personally enjoy working many hours and then destroying what I've created. Working on a Z, getting performance and handling and enjoying the ride is more to my liking.
You remember how it feels, leaning into the curves and enjoying the feel when everything performs well. That was the Z thing thirty six years ago and its still there today.
Last edited by Z*Tech; 09-25-2005 at 02:51 PM.
#21
Originally Posted by Z*Tech
That was the Z thing forty five years ago and its still there today.
Rod.
#23
One of these day's I'm gonna get me an old 1600 Roadster. I alway's liked those. I see a couple around here. One of my Customers has one with a KA24 in it!!! it hauls *****!. It also looks really really good.
Rod.
Rod.
#24
Yeah they are pretty sweet, and I think they look better than an MG. And those cars are pretty cool. A while ago, I saw some cheap Datsun roadsters on E-bay. I believe, they were '66-'69's. They weren't going for much at the time. Probably mainly because of the bad economy. Also I think they were 1600 roadsters.