I've posted many times, tried to be patient with my car's condition and my limited understanding of mechanical things, but I just don't understand why there's a period a minute after startup, or quite soon upon warm restart, where it starts to buck, sputter underhood, if I don't either let the gas pedal go to idle (where she won't stall, but sounds poor like a bu-BUH<Instead of a even tone buh-buh), or alternatively, rev the car, cold or not at least 2,500pms, not cool!!
At this point, my local mechanic said I should put on an air fuel gauge and a electronic fuel pressure gauge (they installed adjustable FPR and raised 8psi over stock, and saw only a 32 to 30lb fuel press. drop when they checked it). I think they're just opening another big labor charge with not much chance of finding a solution, so I'm still trying.
1. Does the 83 280ZXT have a TB position switch? Is there a particular pole or sensor that could be adjusted to raise my part throttle richness (as opposed to WOT or idle)? This car has an NPR I/C, DSM BOV/Greddy PRofec B, 3 in exhaust and CAI.
2. Would a lower rated spark plug raise the richness/lessen sputter?
3. Does the fact that I'm using 0-20 Mobil One for turbos have any effect on such bad performance?
4. I sometimes smell gas w. window ajar on W.O.T...I don't know if that indicates a fuel leak? Is there an over the counter "sniffer" device I could use to see if I could find a leak source (with maybe a brick on the WOT pedal to hold it there)?
5. Is increasing the fuel pressure by adjustable FPR something that I should keep doing, to see if I can even out the mid throttle? Is there any fuel management unit I should look at?
6. I've been priming the car on warm restarts, like hearing the fuel pump kick in then kick out, then turning ignition off without starting, and doing that 2-3X, plus putting my gas pedal all the way down. This doesn't seem to positively improve the poor driveability/bucking until I get underway doing 30-40mph or keep revs 2,500 or above in any gear....is there any other "trick" I can use to push more fuel upon start up, w.o flooding it? Nothing I do seems to matter...but if the scenario is the car restarts fully warmed and runs like crap as above, what else could it be but a pressure drop?
7. Are these fuel pressure (elec) and air fuel gauges going to be like geiger counters for showing what's screwing up, or are they usually just ricey add ons to waste money on to show off bling factor? I mean, are they going to tell my mechanic anything he doesn't already notice?
8. Are there any other devices in the car that let the car start up nicely but then mechanically move to restrict extra fuel/flooding, but in my case may be provoking a lean condition?
9. Is there any thing other than a lit cigarette put at the fuel line's end to tell me if there's a kink in the fuel lines...or do I just assume so and do a fuel system clean up and change the fuel filter?
10. Would it be a good choice to put on the Bosch high pressure pump that I've had in hand, or would I be most likely wasting time and money? If I was to put that pump on, what do I need beyond a new fuel rail and SVO/Ford 370 injectors? Does anyone sell those two items with all fittings needed for 280ZXTs, other than JWT megaprices direct?
I know I"m a moron having a hybridZ without the ability to diagnose/fix it, but again, if anyone can name a really good mechanic on the east coast who might be able to tend to tuning this car, it'd be helpful...the closest I've gotten with experience in the brain leads me to N.B CANADA-in spring, if I'm crazy enough to go there!!

Thanks
John