A/C Charge
#1
A/C Charge
After some searching in the forums and research on the net it seems that there is no real alternative to R12 besides R134a for the home mechanic. Does sanyone know of another refigerant to use in our cars?
I looked into the Freeze 12 and it seems that you need a license to buy it. The cost of R12, if you can find it, is ridiculous. If 134 is the only option is it really necessary to change the condenser?
I looked into the Freeze 12 and it seems that you need a license to buy it. The cost of R12, if you can find it, is ridiculous. If 134 is the only option is it really necessary to change the condenser?
#2
I thought you could buy Freeze 12 direct from Freeze 12: http://www.freeze12.com/miva/merchan..._Code=freeze12
I've also read on several forums you can use propane instead of R12. There's lots of stuff people have done... google "R12 Alternative" or similar. To convert to R134a you do need to change all the rubber O-rings which can be a pain...
I've also read on several forums you can use propane instead of R12. There's lots of stuff people have done... google "R12 Alternative" or similar. To convert to R134a you do need to change all the rubber O-rings which can be a pain...
#4
I have my MACS CFC-12 certification. So, I can buy any type of refridgerant.
You can find cheaper R12 in Mexico. But, if you are not near the border, it's not cheap at all. Only problem I can see with using propane, is that it will not act quite the same with the orifice as R12, or R134a.
You need to make sure to have the correct oil in the system too.
And, I am not sure what high and low side pressure you would be looking for if charging with propane. Might want to check into that. And, propane has additives to make it smell. Not sure how that would work with the system. Clog the orifice etc..
Talk to the right old mechanics, and you should be able to get a hold of some R12.
If you want to convert to R134a, you really only need to change the o-rings in the system, because the neoprene o-rings in the factory R12 systems will deteriorate with the R134a, and PAG or Ester oil that it will use.
Also, you will need to replace the service ports after performing a vacuum on the system to remove the refrigerant. There are adapters at most auto stores.
I would strongly recommend changing the dryer too. The desiccant material that is used to remove moisture will also hold a large amount of the old systems oil.
Remove the high and low side lines from the compressor, and then turn the compressor over to remove most of the oil inside it as well.
Good luck.
Don't worry about changing the condenser or evaporator, unless they leak. If the system has been idle for a sew days, meaning that the A/C was not on, then the oil inside will collect to the lowest points of the system, and should be easy to remove.
You can find cheaper R12 in Mexico. But, if you are not near the border, it's not cheap at all. Only problem I can see with using propane, is that it will not act quite the same with the orifice as R12, or R134a.
You need to make sure to have the correct oil in the system too.
And, I am not sure what high and low side pressure you would be looking for if charging with propane. Might want to check into that. And, propane has additives to make it smell. Not sure how that would work with the system. Clog the orifice etc..
Talk to the right old mechanics, and you should be able to get a hold of some R12.
If you want to convert to R134a, you really only need to change the o-rings in the system, because the neoprene o-rings in the factory R12 systems will deteriorate with the R134a, and PAG or Ester oil that it will use.
Also, you will need to replace the service ports after performing a vacuum on the system to remove the refrigerant. There are adapters at most auto stores.
I would strongly recommend changing the dryer too. The desiccant material that is used to remove moisture will also hold a large amount of the old systems oil.
Remove the high and low side lines from the compressor, and then turn the compressor over to remove most of the oil inside it as well.
Good luck.
Don't worry about changing the condenser or evaporator, unless they leak. If the system has been idle for a sew days, meaning that the A/C was not on, then the oil inside will collect to the lowest points of the system, and should be easy to remove.
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