They can, but you'll have to switch to the Z31 ecu. Unfortunately, there's not much tuning to be done to the 280zx ecu. All it does is decide how much fuel to inject. The turbo 280zx ecu can be tuned by them for things like timing, but it's still a pretty crude ecu. The z31 offers more tunability. The stock AFM isn't a good choice for that kinda horsepower anyways, so the switch would be ideal. You don't need one of those kits though, just get all the parts from a junkyard and have them reflash your ecu once you've made your upgrades. I personally am going to bypass the AFM route altogether and just go map. You can do this pretty cheap with a megasquirt system or go hi tech with a system like the tec3.

 

I'm so lost! Remember J, i'm new to Z's, and most cars in generall, especially electrical BS! AFM, MAP, Megasquirt, TEC3, could you give me a qiuck rundown of what it all means, and what would be best for my hopefull goal of 300-350 N/A RWHP? Thanks man,
JR

 

The Z cars came with an Air Flow Meter(AFM) to measure how much air is coming into the engine. A Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, tells the computer the same thing, but with a pressure sensor in the manifold(different means to the same end), so there's no obstruction in the air path. It also can't read temp, so you still have an air temp sensor. Megasquirt is a stand alone engine management system that you basically assemble yourself. You buy all the parts from the company and you put it together and program it yourself with your computer. It's very cheap, something like $140, but doesn't yet control timing. The TEC3 is also a standalone engine management system that controls every aspect of your engine and is fully tunable(not by a beginner). It is capable of running extra injectors, coil packs or distributo, and AFM or MAP. IT's the ****. But it cost a whole hell of a lot more. If you're looking to get that much horsepower naturally aspirated you're going to have to do a lot of head work and up your compression ratio, way up. possibly to the point where you won't be able to run pump gas. Anything to help your engine breathe better: headers, exhaust, and major headwork. You could always go the supercharger route and get turbo like power without any lag at all. Hope all this clears some stuff up for you. If you got anymore questions, just ask.

 

Thanks man, no more ?'s right now, but I won't hesitate to ask when I get some more.

 

MS only costs $140?? Damn, maybe I will consider that over carbs.... I need to do more research.

 

The only downside to the MS system is that you have to run a standard distributor not controlled by the ecu. If you're not planning on doing the mod for a while, they do offer a MS II which will control an ignition module as well Direct ignition systems. It's just a new board you put in place of the original. It's currently sold out though, but they say it should be available soon. The price is what caught my eye too. I don't plan to use the mega squirt as I'm going to do an engine swap, and wouldn't be practical in my situation, but it seems to be a good alternative to the pricier units. As long as you can solder, you can install the MS.

 

Here's the link to Megasquirt for anyone who's interested in atleast checking it out. There's alot of info on this sight about the system. It's really quite interesting.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

 

yeah i just got my unit...not installed but hey at least the wiring diagram is simple as hell...

 

Wait, so you're saying if I have a stock 280ZX Turbo, that I would have to do some sort of distributor mod? Also, if MS doesn't control timing, then what makes sure it's still timing correctly?

 

Yeah, if you go with the MS you'll have to switch to a standard type distributor like whats found on the early Z's. There are kits so you can swap out the points though. That's what controls the timing, either points or a system like Ignitor. The MS II however CAN run an electronic distributor, or even no distributor at all with direct ignition(far superior).

 

I currently have a Crane Hi6 ignition installed. Where would that come into play with the MSII? Or would I have to remove the Crane?

 

Good question. Which got me to thinking. I came up with a solution for this problem based on your question Heat Rave R. You can go with the MS to control fuel and use one of the crane electronic ignition upgrades like the XR-700/3000 to control your ignition. You can pick up the XR-700 for only $110 and the XR-3000 is only $145. Combine that with the cost of the MS (not II) and you're only out $240-$290 for both the programmable fuel controler and a crane to control your ignition. Plus you can keep your HI-6 too with that setup.

 

Don't forget about bringing in the air after getting the fuel. You will need a CAI, larger AFM, larger TB, and custom intake manifold to maximize the potential of MS. Also, exhaust is an issue but thats a different story. All those things cost $$. Now I remember why I wanted to switch to carbs. Less hassle, cooler sound, simpler design, less money in the long run, and NO ELECTRICAL CRAP!

 

Haha, dang, I'm gonna be having way too many "boxes" under the hood after that! I already removed my windshield washer reservoir to make room for the Hi6, tach adaptor, noise cap, etc. My big reason to go with the MS is to eliminate that big ol' AFM that's taking up so much real estate under the hood. But it looks like I'd be replacing one space-taker for another. ^^

 

true but at least that space taker would be a little more beneficial that the old AFM...

 

No AFM with MS, it runs off a map sensor, which is one of the benefits. As far as the CAI and custom intake goes, I've seen Z's put up some decent numbers running off the stock versions of both those items. A TB would be good investment though. You were dead on with the carbs except for a couple of things. Less hassle: I've dealt with carbs before and they just way too touchy. They lack the ability to compensate for different weather conditions and altitude changes. You have to adjust them for everything. I was always tweaking my carb when I had my Mustang. Simpler design is kinda borderline: Yes they're purely mechanical, but mechanical wears and breaks. To me FI is simple. I mean I can't tune an ecm, but it's the same basis as carbs but the computer makes the adjustments for you. As far as sound goes I don't know, I've never listened to the same car with both setups. Electrical Crap is cool as long as it's not 20+ years old. My fuel injection system has been completely rewired and I don't have any problems. I've been working with FI for a while now, and it's not nearly as complicated as alot of people think. It's still just fuel and air

 

Ok, for anyone interested in the MegaSquirt system I just noticed a good source of information today. I was making my rounds at HybridZ(please, no boo's. Theres a lot of info on that sight), and I noticed they have a whole section just on the MegaSquirt system. Here's the link for anyone who's interested. I found by accidentally clicking into this forum instead of the 4cyl. forum.

http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=88

Enjoy!

 

Which year 240sx has the larger TB that'll bolt onto my '80 zx?

 

the s13 chassis. 89-early ninties.

 

does that TB actually make a big difference, or would one from MSA be more of a value? My buddy owns a salvage yard, so if he has one, I could get it pretty cheap, like 75% cheaper than any other salvage yard!

 

If you get the one off the 240 you have to get this adaptor. You can find it on ebay. Otherwise, the TB wont reach your intake piping and the adapter has the provisions for the air regulator and stuff like that. It's not very expensive, and once my car gets out here(its in transport),I have a 240 TB you can have for shipping. I'm swapping the engine out so I don't need it. As far as making a difference goes, maybe at higher rpm's, not sure though. It's not a bad mod to make though if you're planning other upgrades in the future to compliment it. The TB itself lines right up though and if you mod your car to run without the air regulator and extend your intake piping you wont need the adapter.

 

WOW! thanks J, how much do you think the shipping would be? do you also have the adapter?

 

What about hooking up the throttle? Do you have to convert to a cable system?

 

OOH, good question Heat. I would assume you would have to make some sort of modification to make the linkage work if you use the adapter. For the 2 weeks that I had mine on, I didn't use an adapter, I just adjusted the TB to hold an idle and pluged off the air regulater and left the electrical conector pluged in. I didn't want the computer getting thrown off. I also had to cut off some of the butterfly shaft cause it stuck out to far and made contact with the manifold. I then just adapted my mechanical linkage to fit the 240 TB by mixing and mathing parts for the shaft. I replaced the hose from the AFM with a piece of plastic sewer tubing(or whatever it is). That's basically it. You can do it less ghetto but it worked. I took it off to get it smogged and just never put it back on, so now its just sitting in my car. Which I'm waiting on to be transported from CA to SD. Oh and I also had to Tee off some vaccuum lines and plug others, as well reroute some coolant lines. Cake.

 

Juggalo, no adapter and shipping is probably a few bucks, it aint heavy. But my post above tells you how to ghetto rig it. I didn't have any driveability problems. The only difference is that the idle doesn't raise when the car is cold like it did with the air regulater.