About a month after I bought my car every time I would start my car it would crank and crank and crank and crank till finally it turned over. This got worse and worse over time but now it is just the same every time I try to start my car. I have been told it could be a cold start valve but other people say it has to be really cold outside for the cold start valve to even turn on. Please help, I need to get her running right again. It is a 1983 280zx non-turbo

Ive been told as I said before I have been told it has to be below freezing before the cold start valve starts working. Is this correct?

 

Welcome to ZDriver!

Discussion from just the other day (Click): https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...t-issue-38778/

 

Okay, I know I have asked this a couple of times but my cold start problem is still happening....
So my problem is that my 1983 280zx is really hard to start. My engine rotates and rotates and rotates till 20 secs later the engine sounds like it is going to start then finally it sputters into life. The car runs fine once it is started and idles at 1200 RPM til it warms up and drops to about 800 and idles fine there.
I have checked the fuel pressure with a guage to make sure my fuel pump is fine, I have cleaned my cold start valve except for the electical connector and I have check the air regualtor.
My question is what other things can I check? Thermotime switch?(I do not know the location) Pull cold start valve out and connect to battery to see if it actually works?

Anything helps at this point because I have to get off this problem to move to other things.
I will include a video tomorrow of this problem

 

Merged threads.

#1: Have you downloaded the FSM as outlined in my Welcome PM?
#2: Have you checked fuel pressure when cold BEFORE starting the car?

It sounds like the common "fuel pressure regulator leak down" problem... it takes ~10 seconds to build pressure again if it's leaked down.

 

I only did the fuel pressure test when cold, I will do one well the car is running. The only reason why I didn't do a pressure test when the car was running is because I thought the engine wasn't getting any gas it had no problems running. I have the FSM by the way

 

If the fuel pressure stays at ~35psi when running, and after being off for several hours, then the other possible culprits are the cold start valve (and/or thermotime switch), and air regulator. Those are the only 2 components that directly affect cold start. So make sure you are checking them as per the FSM:

 

So, if I have good fuel pressure then it is not a FPR leak? Also, when you pull the thermotime switch does it dump coolant?

 

Okay, yesterday I pulled the cold start valve out and tested it, it works fine. I also checked the air regulator. Those both work. We did a volt test on the thermotime switch and that read a zero. It was about 45F outside when we did this so I don't know if the thermotime switch gives off any power at that temperature or not. So if I have good fuel pressure than it is not a FPR leak right?

 

I LOST MY DOWNLOADED COPY OF THE FSM YOU PROVIDED ME WHEN I JOINED. WOULD IT BE POSSIBLE TO GET ACCESS TO THAT LINK AGAIN PRETTY PLEASE W/ SUGAR ON TOP? YOU WOULD BE GOD-LIKE. - Denise

 

WB Denise. Check out XenonS130

 

Wondering if there is a timing/spark/wires issue here. Sounds like it to me. When they are out of whack (on a Z31, at least), helps to let fuel pump build pressure before ignition. Like 10-15 seconds in "ON' position before starting.

Would also check battery output on start. Low amps, flaky starting. I don't see any of that covered. Worth checking, esp with a 'just bought it' Z. I would check the whole alt/cables/batt system for taking in/putting out more than the minimum required on start & run.

 

Its not an electrical issue, have you checked if your fuel pressure remains stable after the car is turned off? If the pressure leaks down, then your engine is starved for gas when you 1st crank it over, after 10 seconds or so, the fuel line is pressurized and gas is getting to your injectors. Check your cold start injector too, maybe it is malfunctioning or clogged.

 

Thanks guys for helping out. I really need to fix this problem. Today when I get home I am gonna try to push start my car and is if that speeds it up at all. I don't know if that will let me know if it is voltage issues or not. Just an idea. Also it seems now if i drive for a half an hour or so and pull my car in and shut it off and then try to start it again it seems to be a little faster but stills cranks more than it should. This weekend I will check fuel pressure again.

 

Just tossing this out, but could you have an injector leak? Duping fuel into the cylinder while it sits. If the engine is "warm" it should just fire right up with a slight tap of the ignition. If you have warm and cold starting problems then it might be worth checking.

 

I just oush started the car and it started normally. This is whats having me think I have a voltage issue or a bad starter. Any suggestions there?