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Distributorless 280 ZX Turbo

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Old 02-02-2004, 08:35 AM
  #2  
The Evil Twin
 
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I don't think the oil oil pump will have problems. The crank drives a gear with a rod that moves both the oil pump on and the distributor off either end. Removing the distributor should effect the oil pump at all.
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Old 02-05-2004, 10:25 AM
  #3  
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I put Electramotive's DIS on my L28. I have yet to run the car, but I've seen countless others which were just fine. Even though the distributor is not on, the spindle which drives both the pump and distributor is in no danger. If you were to go the other way with a distributor and say a dry sump system, then there would be issues. Once you have a look at the backside of the front cover, you'll easily find out why.

With that said, you could adapt a DIS to your turbo motor, but there would be engine management issues. The best way to go would be a complete aftermarket FI system, programmable via a laptop. You could really unlock some more power playing with fuel and timing maps. I've been hearing more about the Megasquirt system which looks intreiging.

Phil
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Old 02-05-2004, 02:25 PM
  #4  
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Yes, me too. But that controls only fuel right now. As for the ignition, would an n/a distributor work ok since the turbo unit is controlled by the ECU? ...or is there something different with the ignition timing on a turbo car?
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Old 02-05-2004, 04:52 PM
  #5  
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The ignition timing is part of the ECU, and to the car cannot be run without it in the equation. The '81 turbos came with a crank trigger, but still used a regular distributor cap for spark distribution. The 82-83 cars had the timing incorporated into the distributor. There's a 360 slot wheel read by an infared pick-up.

The 300ZX's have pretty much the same system, but with a hot wire AMS. It uses the same type of distributor with the same wheel internally, but with 361 slots.
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Old 02-07-2004, 09:49 PM
  #7  
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Aftermarket engine management

Hello,

I currently have a Haltech E6K engine management system on my L28 turbo.

I originally had the factory computer piggybacked to the original Haltech F3 back in the mid 80's to control fuel delivery under higher than stock boost settings.

In the late 80's early 90's, the decision was made to switch to staged fuel injection, 6 primary and 6 secondary injectors to control fuel at different levels of boost. Idle to about 2700-2800 RPM would be primary and under higer boost from 2850-redline would have both the primary and secondary injectors operating. This was also a piggyback system which retarted timing a degree when you let off the gas to prevent knock. This computer was called the F6 and a secondary box was used to control the secondary injectors.

With the E6K, you can run this with either a crank trigger system or off the distributor. My original set up was to run off the crank trigger set up with 3 seperate ignition amps (3 MSD 6AL-2's and 3 seperate 2 plug coil packs), but it would be a bit of a pain to tune because of the magnetic pick up used to read the crank signal. If the magnets came loose or lost their pulling ability, or if the trigger got mis aligned via bad bump or got dirty, there could be the possibility of a mis read and it could wind up doing alot of damage.

The safe way was to go via the distributor with one ignition amp and one hd coil so minor adjustments in timing could be achieved with the distributor. So far it's been reliable. Before the install of the new turbo, the car ran fine, very good idle and smooth operation, but that depends on who tunes the car. I would not recommend to tune it yourself, but bring it to a professional who knows what they're doing. The last thing you need is to mess this up.

There are other aftermarket engine managment systems. Mo-tec and Microtech are examples, but can be very expensive.

The question is how fast do you want to go and how much do you want to spend?
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