just wanted to know how difficult it is to install an electric fan? also are there any drawbacks in having one?

 

pretty freaking simple... check my web page & check out my E fan setup (link below). I'm using one 16" 2100 cfm puller fan, and it cools good unless I am really hard on her. I'm planning on putting another on the front as a pusher.

 

I'm about to install a FAL 16" on my '82 Turbo (as soon as I get her back from the paint shop). I'm hoping I can remove the stock fan shroud without having to move the AFM.

 

You should be able to remove the shroud without the AFM. As for the electric fan. I had one and didn't like it too much. My car kept overheating, mainly because I was missing the top fan shroud. So I ended up putting the stock fan back in, and the top and bottom shrouds, also with a brass lifetime thermostat. Then my Z ran much cooler, it is just too hot down here in the desert.

 

Thanks. But is there a certain one that I should get or is it ok to buy one from Autozone? also I thought that a 16" would be too big. Would that be better than getting a 14"?

 

If you're doing a single fan setup, I would definitely try and get something bigger than a 14". The biggest thing to worry about is thickness of the fan. I tried getting a FAL Black Magic 16" fan, which is what they supposedly recommend for the Z, but it was just too thick to fit without hitting the pulley system.

 

The most important thing is whether it will fit like Heat said. Then get the biggest diameter fan that'll span the radiator. The more coverage you get the better cooling you'll get. Also, DO NOT buy an electric fan without a fan shroud. Obviously WildmaN can attest to that one . The only notable drawback to a properly sized fan is the draw it puts on the alternator as they draw alot of amperage. Don't go looking for any horsepower gain as the extra work the alternator puts in will suck up the horsepower you got from removing the clutch fan. The ONLY benefit to an electric fan is that it can cool the car after it's been turned off to keep the car cool after hard driving. Either type of fan in good condition will not outperform the other during normal driving. That is of course taking into consideration that the elec. is properly sized and ducted. Neither type does any good while you're driving down the road either.

Take measurements from the radiator (widthxheight) and the distance between the radiator and the waterpump pulley. Then using these measurement choose a fan that fits and moves the most CFM's. It's also a good idea to get a thermostat switch for the elec. fan so it's not running the whole time the car is on. It doesn't need to be. Don't take a "recommended" fan size from a catalog unless someone has successfully used it. Take the initiative to choose the RIGHT fan. As far as hooking it up goes, thats easy as pie. Without the therm. switch its just a couple wires. With the switch, it's just a couple more. Easy, and most secure with ties. Cake.

 

And as far as Autozone is concerned. Find out what brand it is. If it's a decent fan, then it doesn't matter where you go. Another budget option is to hit up the pic-n-pull with your measurements and check out all the FWD cars for a fan that fits your needs. And something else I forgot to mention above is that you can control the current to an electric fan so that it only cools as much as it needs to. Therefore releiving the alternator from absorbing as much HP.

 

I've rarely ever seen an electric fan that didnt' have a shroud built as part of its housing. Regarding the amperage draw, the manufacturers usually list the amp draw on their sites/packaging. For a single 16" fan, the amp draw is around the low-mid teens average (ie 14A), so it's really not that much of a draw on the alternator, especially since it's not on all the time (whereas the clutch fan is constantly being spun by the engine). The electric fan also makes it a lot easier to work on the other belt-driven accessories too.

 

jfairladyz you say:

"It's also a good idea to get a thermostat switch for the elec. fan so it's not running the whole time the car is on."

How do you incorporate that into the Z? Do you have to drill another hole or what? I've heard of thermotime switch...same thing? Thank you for enlightening us in this subject.

Chris

 

being that tha alt. will now be doing more work to cool the car than the engine itself ,i hope that if not hosepower than at least m.p.g. will improve!what does everyone else think?

 

i have just finished the install (took me about 1.5 hrs to modify and fit) and i am about to go &test drive .Say a prayer for me &the fire zx

 

Get your measurements and then go to: http://www.summitracing.com

 

There are three types of switches. The first and I don't recommend this type unless it's on full time, is the manual switch. The second is the air-probe type that just mounts to the radiator. The third type is the liquid-probe type that needs to be hacked into your coolant system. There are adapters sold for this type. I highly recommend the air type as they are more available and a much easier install as you dont need to hack anything. It just splices into the fan circuit.

 

If you have a free port on your thermostat housing, you can use a standard thermostat sensor to switch your fan on and off. This is what I used.

 

Yea I vouch on the manule switch one. I kept forgetting to turn the fan off on my pontiac when I parked it. Unbelevable that I never once ran the battery dead thogh. I hated it.

 

Couldn't find the instructions but are u supposed to take the mounting straps and put them through the radiator?

 

Yeah. You just fead them between the fins.

 

I'm not talking about the cheesy little ring wrapped around the fan. Yes thats a shroud but it's not very efficient. All's that does is keep the fan from sucking in warm stagnant air from the edges of the blades instead of through the radiator. What I'm talking about is a shroud that actually covers the entire backside of the radiator so the fan draws air through the ENTIRE radiator and not just through the 16" or so that the fan itself covers. That leaves alot of coolant not getting any cooling done to it if you don't have a full shroud. You can retrofit the stock shroud to fit around the electric if a decent fan with a shroud can't be found. Some trimming will probably be needed though.

 

That is the main reason I went back to the stock fan and shroud. Less hassle to deal with. And if you have a good flowing radiator, and cooling system with the brass thermostat. You don't have to worry about overheating. Take it from me, I know this because of driving the Z in the hottest summer months here in the desert!

 

OK I finished installing the e-fan and now for some reason the car is running hotter than before. Does anyone know why this could be? I talked to a couple of folks and they say it could be either the radiator is bad, I need an additional fan or like jfairladyz said the coolant is not getting cooled all over the radiator. Thanks for everyones help.

 

so ask yourself... what makes the engine heat up???

-not enough coolant / blocked coolant passages
-not enough air flow through the radiator
-stuck thermostat

since you just did the e-fan swap... could be that it's not pulling enough air... WHAT IS THE CFM RATING OF THE ELECTRIC FAN U JUST INSTALLED?

 

An additional fan would also add more coverage to the radiator so in fact you end up covering more of the radiator.

Is the car actually overheating to the point where the gauge is maxing out? Or is it just running hotter than it should be. Also is it doing it only while the car is at rest or also while in motion? If its doing it in motion then you can rule out the fan as your problem. I've got a dieing fan clutch and it's not abnormal for me to see temps of up to 220 if I let her idle too long because I'm not moving enough air. But as soon as I get her going it drops right back down to where it should be. Another thing to check for is if it's actually overheating. A slight exhaust leak (missing heat shield) at the end of the exhaust manifold can heat up the thermostat housing and give a false temp. reading. I've had that problem too. If the thermostat checks out AND it's overheating while you're in motion then I'd say it's the radiator. If it's only at rest though it's most likely the fan. This is all taking into consideration that you've got coolant in your system and it's not leaking

And even if you've installed a new thermostat check it. On more than one occasion I've purchased bad thermostats brand new.

 

The problem is my car has been overheating for a while now and Ive been trying to figure out the problem. Ive changed the thermostat, upper radiator hose, and now tried the e-fan. Im not just throwing money at the car either. Ive taken it to some people and they've gavesome possibilities so Ive gone with those for the most part. I also tried the meat thermometer trick but when I put it in the radiator the temp went past the 190* mark. I changed the radiator cap about a year and a half ago but I dont think it could go bad that fast could it? Also I just remembered that a few years ago I had a problem with my heater core where it was leaking in the car. Before I had it repaired I used the stop leak stuff. I was wondering if since I used it about 4 or 5 times could this have clogged up my radiator? And also how can u really tell whether or not the fan is blowing in the right direction or not?

 

man... why didn't u say u used that stop leak shiz! That stuff is murder on the coolant passages... kinda like pumpin sludge into your arm.

as for the fan's dirrection... prolly should be blowing towards the rear of the car... otherwise it will be canceling out the natural wind when you drive.