Yeppers... my hybrid.

 

then give it to me!

EDIT: and if your getting fuel pressure at teh right amount check your plugs if you cant tell by that, you can always take 10 mins and pull the fuel rail and see if all the injectors are spitting correctly and then just another 15 mins to put it back on. if that seems to be cool make sure you got spark, if thats cool.... idk maybe timing? akward timing can cause popping but nothing from the wastegate thats totally seperate and wont actuate until you reach boost levels.... which wont happen unless your car is running first! lol

 

i know, all this is insane. The haynes book says it can be timing, vacuum, EGR system (haven't touched that), or valves. But it wasnt backfiring before we started the whole swap

and IF IF IF i did v8 swap, i'd turbo that badboy v8! lol

 

ok, not the wastegate then... what's the canister on the far right of the intake manifold then? that popped and a puff of smoke came up from it... car hasn't started correctly since...

 

Wait... didn't you say you have a Haynes manual?? I believe you are talking about the POV (pop off valve aka emergency release valve).

 

hehe just always assumed it was an external wastegate or something so didn't look into it... so it's supposed to pop when pressure gets too high? lol

 

When the boost pressure rises above ~8psi ... or it can pop when the engine is backfiring in the intake.

 

i blame timing then.... cause it ran before so it wasnt the valves... and i dont see how teh EGR would do that.

 

Could be timing if he actually took the distrib off the timing cover, and somehow managed to misalign it (which is pretty hard since it can only go on one way)... and nobody is talking about the valves or EGR.

 

wow, so the mystery unravels some more with this new information

 

I took the disty off in order to switch the cutter wheels, but like you said it only goes back on one way so unless it just needs to be calibrated (turning side to side) I can't think of anything else...

plugs look fine, and when cranking they spark on the valve cover...

 

just went and messed with the timing for a bit, made no difference... just one quick backfire and then constant cranking after that...

 

ok so today I went out and tried it again, no go... but then I checked the spark plugs (even after checking them yesterday) and they were a little black from what looked like oil... dunno if I just didn't notice it before or what. So I went to AutoZone and bought a new set of Spark Plugs, gapped them, popped them in and the car fired right up... but then it died... fired right up, then died...

thinking that there may be too much fuel I shut off the fuel pump toggle and she straightened up and idled/revved fine.... let it idle for 10 minutes and then called Dan to show him... it's still idling fine... but when I went to go it bogged and died... thought it just ran out of gas finally so I turn the toggle on, car fires up but idles at like 500 rpm and eventually sounds like it drowns out. Turn the toggle off, car fires up and idles fine, go to go, car starts to die so I flip on the toggle and it drives fine til I go to stop and the car goes to idle, idles low, and boggs and dies...

So it seems with the toggle off the fuel pump sends enough to idle but not drive, and with the toggle on it drives fine but sends too much to allow a good idle...

Does anyone know if the ECU uses a resistor to limit the voltage to the fuel pump? I know that you can take a fuel pump and depending on the amount of voltage it puts out a different amount, say it shoots out a lot more with 12v than it does with 9v, 1.5v, etc...

I don't want to be driving around flipping a toggle each time I start/stop, so anyone have any ideas?? can't find anything Hayne's or Chilton's concerning that...

 

PIN 20 sends the + power to the relay. It should be 12v. PIN 108 is the ground for the relay.

What was the fuel pressure when it was running? Can you put the stock regulator back on?

 

i guess we could try to stick the afm back on. would it work to directly wire the fuel pump to pins 20 and 108? cant remember checking the pressure when it was running

 

The Z31 ecu doesn't use an AFM... you'd have to undo all the wiring back to stock.

Since PIN 20 is + and PIN 108 is - ... that would be a NO.

Prolly should.

 

so why not take the + from the fuel pump and 20 and - from fuel pump to 108?

 

Taken from page 1 of the Hybridz write up: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91250

I believe PIN 20 is actually inactive or otherwise not really used. The wire running to the 280zxt ecu PIN 16 is the + fpr source. So you should be checking for voltage on PIN 16.

 

PS... I like this quote from xtreme on hybridz:

Apparently we're retarded.

 

Ah, well hopefully xtreme and I can get this whole issue figured out and soon, I'm even getting close to dumping the whole project to part out and maybe either getting a 240z or an SVX


Some people are. To quote Banditos by The Refreshments "Everybody knows, the world is full of stupid people"

I've seen some stupid people on here, as well as on hybridz, and every other forum on the internet, so don't take it to harshly lol

 

it was when the other people started chiming in that it started getting "retarded"... you have always been a great help...

Well I talked to a friend of mine that has a 1986 Z31 up on blocks and we are going to borrow the MAF and ECU from him to see if it makes any difference in the way things run...

How do you adjust the A/F Mixture with a stock ECU? it seems like it is running too rich at idle...

 

and Dan, the AFM is the reason why I wanted to do this swap in the first place... it was crap and putting it back on would put the car into limp-home mode again...

 

i know the AFM was crap, when he said undo everything i thought he meant EVERYTHING

 

I did mean everything... The Z31 ecu uses a MAF & different plug than the AFM. You'd have to put the old plug back on.... also take out the VG chopper wheel. I guess you wouldn't really need the air regulator wire hooked back up tho.

 

is there anyway we can somewhat tune the a/f ratio without an AFC/EMS/ or chip?

and xtreme says there is no way he wants to go back to stock and the wiring is dead on (sent that though text since he's at work)