I'm pretty sure I'm prepared to replace my leaky header now.

I've never had to do this before though, so just one question: Is there some kind of "goop" or something that you're supposed to wipe on the gasket?

I got one from MSA. None of the tutorials I've read say to use a sealant of any kind on the gasket... what should I use?? how should it be applied??

Shady280, if you read this, your walkthrough was good, but this piece of information would make it better.

and how should I treat the face of the header that would be touching the gasket? should it get painted with engine enamel like the rest of the header, or should I go out of my way to keep it bare metal?

Thanks

 

Use this. It will seal the intake side. No "goop" will withstand 500*-1k*F temps.

Oh, and you use a straightedge to check the manifold mating surface.

 

sweet! good to know! it just gets sprayed all over, huh?

how should i use that straightedge? just make sure the header`s not warped?

 

Yes lay the gaskets on some newspaper and spray away i find its better to let the spray tack up a bit before installing. As far as checking warpage lay the straight edge flat along the headers mating surface and try to slide feeler gauge under the straight edge i would say if you can get a 0.015'' feeler gauge under the straight edge you would have issues with leaking, any less and your most likely safe.
-Andrew

 

RRgggaaah. this is infuriating.

so the intake is actually held on by TEN bolts? six more than the four that are visible?

 

eh? That shouldn't be breaking news since you said you read Shady's how to, and you should have the FSM / Haynes open right beside you as you work...

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...-gasket-18779/

 

I think I just posted that because I was pissed off.

Sorry!

I got it, but I drowned my alternator in Antifreeze.... Is it dead?

 

Alternators are subject to moisture, rain etc, washing the engine, gets them wet, the wires inside have a plastic insulation on them, so it shouldn't be a problem. It probably wouldn't run submersed in liquid, but a little spillage should run right through.

 

+1 - good stuff. They have a good high temp anti sieze as well. Just be careful with anti sieze that they are the correct metal x to metal x or y combination.

 

there's no sense in using rtv on the intake side, its absolutely pointless. You can either use coppercoat, which I would highly recommend. Or if you just have to use RTV, you can buy high temp rtv silicone that is orange in color, it will withstand the temperatures at the head/manifold area. But you're only masking a problem rather than fixing it for good. You need to check for head warpage and manifold warpage. And make sure all your studs are there. Convert to studs all the way around instead of bolts, and buy new washers from MSA. If #1 and #6 studs are broken, drill them out to accept 10mm studs.

 

yeah that coppercoat is all you need if your worried. lately i havent even had to use it after ive had the header flange straightened or know its perfectly flat. if unsure or want extra insurance then coppercoat is awesome stuff. thats kinda a personal preference.