I'm assuming you're running the older glass GMA style barrel fuse about 1.25" long? What is the fuse that is suppose to be installed in that socket rated at?

 

No I'm using modern blade fuses. Everything works now except the blinkers which I haven't even looked at yet.

 

Well...it ran OK for a while. I took my daughter for a short ride around the block and it completely crapped out. Would barely idle and maybe on 2 cylinders. Had to push the car home.
Really frustrated with this car. Ready to rip this ancient sh*t out and install an LS3.

 

Blade fuse come in fast and slow blow? Is the 30A fuse the correct fuse for that circuit - eg does it match the value on the fuse block cover?

 

The issue is the wiring/electronics not the engine. You're just as likely to have wiring issues with an LS3 as you are with an L28... Are you sure the ECU is working properly? Did you check the AFM connector?

 

Yes but I'm way more knowledgeable on the LS.
Not sure about the ECU. I will test the ECU in the morning. The AFM connection hasn't been touched and feels secure.
This car sat up in a field for two years before we bought it a year ago. Yes, I have been working on it a YEAR. At one point we had it running nicely. Now that I can actually drive it... not so nice.

 

Sorry I missed this...
The blade fuse is a replacement for the fusible link.

 

By the way I love BC. Been to Vancouver a few times and love it there. Especially in the spring

 

A couple of random things... if you have power windows there is a breaker/fuse... lol I was searching for a thread for you but it looks like you've already done your homework

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...window-breaker

Just wondering if you did some of the basics like drain the old gas from the tank, make sure the fuel filter isn't clogged and that you are getting good flow from the fuel pump? When you turn the key to the "ON" position the ECU tells the fuel pump to run for a few seconds then shuts it off. That brings the fuel pressure up.

Did you check flow on the injectors? You can set up a rig to measure flow to see if they are in spec but it's likely that one or more are working just fine so you could probably figure out if they are working all the same. I think you can activate them with a little 9V battery or just apply 12V to them. They are meant to be pulsed off and on and you usally run them max at 80% on so don't leave them on forever - just long enough to check the flow on each one.

This is a pretty simple setup and it's the same as any other engine - fuel, spark and air... it hard part isn't fixing it - it's finding what's wrong with the apparently simple system

 

Thanks for the link. This thread is almost a year old so some of it is out of date.
I did fix the windows.
I had to replace the fuel pump. It was dead.
I went through the fuel rail completely and replaced several injectors from the parts car and all the rubber. At that time all injectors were working. We drained the fuel from the tank when we replaced the pump.
Fuel filter is new.
Also replaced several vacuum lines.

 

Ohmed out the EFI system.
The following systems were included:
Idle Throttle Switch-OK
Full Throttle Switch-OK
Air Flow Meter Resistance-OK
Air Temperature Resistance Sensor-OK
Water Temperature Sensor Resistance-OK
Air Regulator and Fuel Pump Circuit-OK
ECU grounds (4)-OK

Discovered some corroded contacts on the idle throttle connector that were affecting readings. Cleaned them then cleaned all the Fuel Injector connectors and Air Meter connector.

Engine still missing. Will check for fouled plugs next. Just put them in though.....

 

Cold Start Valve is working properly.

The Manual states that when the fuel pump is running the pressure regulator is supposed to buzz. I listened and it was silent so I swapped it out. The 2nd one is also silent.

Currently the car starts very quickly then runs rough then runs worse then dies.
The plugs are all good.
There is one injector that is not firing but is getting pulsed. This does not account for it running like crap.

 

eh? How does a 6cyl running on 5cyl not account for running like crap? I've been through many sets of these old injectors and can tell you that one bad / clogged injector will make the engine run rough. It shouldn't die though...

Every time it dies, does it start right back up?

 

Right, it does run bad but then after about 20 seconds it changes and BARELY runs. It switches from bad to terrible every time. After it dies it will not start for a while. Come back an hour later...starts right up like a champ. Then 20 seconds or so it goes to barely idling then nothing.

 

An engine needs 3 things to start:
-air
-proper fuel
-proper spark

So when it won't start, is it not getting fuel, or not getting spark?

 

Your ignition needs three things to fire the coil correctly. The magnetic fluxbands must be in correct timing with the crank and the synchronizers must be in photomodulaic comparison with the isorhythmic bands in the ECU..










































All complete bullshit though, do what nismo says...

 

Made me laugh though

 

Spoke with a Z mechanic in Nashville. Did some troubleshooting over the phone. Turns out the short harness from the coolant temp sensor was shorted. It would read correctly on the meter until I started wiggling it around....
After replacing it the engine runs much better, no smoke at all. However, I still have a miss.
Engine work has stopped to make room for body work. I'm trying to get it painted before the cold sets in.
It is driveable now though.