I believe it's a 10mm socket w/ wrench.

Once you get the pan off, you'll need to remove the timing cover.

Once the timing cover is off, you'll be able to re-seat the chain tensioner.

When you do, put the chain around the cam sprocket and make sure you line up the timing marks on the chain.

Don't forget to make sure the engine is at top dead center or your motor will be off and you'll have interference between the valves and the pistons.

 

Autozone didn't have it for my 280ZX. I didn't check Napa, and I don't even know what the hell Checker or Pepboys is. Anyway, as for the timing chain, isn't it recommended to change it every 30,000 miles or no? Am I just thinking of the timing belt?

 

Here, read this... it will help.

Rod.
http://www.zcar.com/articles/wilkinson/timingchain/

 

nice! Line 1: "WARNING: This is definetly not to be tried by someone & stupid and inexperienced"

 

Well just the one thing I've been wondering. Are you supposed to change the timing chain every so often? I know on the Z31 they said to change the belt every 30,000 miles. I guess this would be alot longer since it's a chain.

 

Ok, I'm not sure what car you're referring too, but there is NO timing belt on these cars. They have a steel chain that is strong enough to break the cam shaft if something suddenly stops the crank from turning. (Don't ask how I know this)

The Z32 (2nd Gen 300ZX) recommends changing the timing belt every 60,000 miles at a cost of about $1200 (mostly labor).

I can't imagine the Z31 requires service at half that. And, I thought the Z31 still had a timing chain.

 

I think the VG30 series all have belts. I know for sure the 2nd gen Maxima (FWD VG30) has a belt.

If you learn how, the belt change is far less involved than a timing chain change.

 

The Z31 had a belt. I know the L-series engines have a chain. I just didn't know wether there was a recommendation on changing the chain every so often. The original owner of the 280ZX thought it had a belt, so he was saying he thought every 60,000 you were supposed to change the belt or chain(since he wasn't sure). So based on that, I thought maybe you were supposed to change the timing chain every so often. I guess it would make sense that for a big metal chain, you really wouldn't need to change it. Yea, I've changed the timing belt on a Z31 so I know it did have the belt. The main thing I've been wondering was just that does the Timing Chain in the 280ZX and earlier have a certain mileage that you're supposed to change the chain at?

 

I've heard they are good for 100,000 miles. But most Z's that are daily drivers probably have the chain left in for the life of the engine.

 

Bleach is right. I've seen chains with over 300k on them and they're barely on the 2nd timing mark.

 

Alright, thanks for the help guys. I just didn't know there was such a big difference between the chain and a belt, but it makes me wonder. If chains are so much stronger and last so much longer, why did they go to using a Timing Belt?

 

The chain almost never fails on these cars. The weak link (no pun intended) are the tensioners. When they go bad they can cause a lot of slack and noise and other nastiness. I've never seen one of these chains break though. It's very over-engineered. When my buddy and I changed his a few weeks ago, his dad was helping out, he's a hard core chevy guy with a seriously built chevelle and he was impressed with how stout the chain was. Like L-Dub said... you'll destroy the motor before you break the chain.

Rod.

 

Question about timing sets:

If the L24 and L28 have the same block deck height, why do we have different part numbers for the timing chain set for the 240Z and 280ZX?

What parts are different?

 

ok... I got the car to turn over ...I never matched any marks up...maybe thats why flames shoot out of my exhaust manifold.

what did i do wrong? LOL


I think im going to sell it and get one already running. 800$ cash 1982 280zxTURBO

LOCATION ATLANTA GA

 

I think ya answered ya own question.

And feel free to list items for sale in the MarketPlace.

 

Flames shooting out of the exhaust manifold? Assuming there were no horrible noises upon startup, and the car actually started up correctly, and idled, you probably put the chain on right. As for fire....no idea. You've got a car out of the Fast and the Furious apparently, either that or the next Batmobile.

 

almost sou7nds like oil pump gurgles and pops.....but no idel....it only rolls the motor over alsmost starting.

 

Sounds like ignition is out of time.Remove dist hold down screw and turn dist with some one craking to see if it will run.If you get it to run right like that,then you have to drop the oil pump and realine the dist.

 

Also you might want to set #1 at tdc then pull valve cover and make sure both camlobes for #1 are in thier nutral position.Yea do this first.

 

huh? Explain thee whole screw thing..sounds like ill get the **** shocked outta me. And #1? whats #1? im a noob to this timing stuff.

 

the oil pump is the thing next to the oil pan that has 4 screws right? (left bottom of engine above stablizer bar)

 

Sell that car for $400 and get something that runs.

 

lol...im tradin it for 200$ and a honda crx in good shape. im going to sell that for 1000$ and buy another Z

 

#1 is the first cylinder. The one closest to the radiator.

If you don't have that piston at Top Dead Center (TDC - where both cam lobes for that cylinder are closed) then your timing will be off. It sounds like it's sparking on the exhaust stroke which means your distributor is on 180 degress backwards.

You'll have to remove the oil pump to re-align it.

 

i wouldnt worry about fixing that Z yourself anymore. just sell it. dont take on more than you can handle. it will just turn you off to the project and cost you money, time and agrivation.