i need a week or two to add the pictures, then Pic can puts this in the tech section tell me about anything i left out


***TIP*** have tape and a sharpie to label everything, and go buy a set of extensions and U-Join sockets if you don't have any, raid autozone for all their PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench they have… this may take an entire week, or if your Snw an hour…

1) Put the front of your car on jack stands or on ramps...

2) Relieve fuel pressure (refer to you Haynes manual for your year) i just had to pull the fuel pump relay.

3) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

4) Drain the cooling system.

5) Remove the upper radiator hose.

6) Remove the throttle rod, remove the pin and it will slide out.

7) Remove all vacuum/coolant hoses and electrical connections from the intake manifold (too many to list but here’s a few)

*the large vacuum hose running from valve cover to intake, wiggle free.

*EGR tube, get a 15/16” wrench and go to town on it.

*2 ground cables, Philips screws.

*O2 sensor, your gonna need a fancy O2 socket.

*About 6-7 vacuum hoses, get a small pair of pliers and wiggle them free.

*One coolant line near the thermostat housing, (regular hose clams) just loosen and wiggle free (or cut off and replace like me)

*PCV valve tube, loosen hose clamp, usually can be pulled off by hand.

*Intake pipe (I just took out the whole AFM) disconnect the AFM harness, 2 hose clamps, 3 bolts.

*Distributor cap (leave wires attached) move over to side.

*Injector harnesses (be careful not to break the harnesses or lose the clips) the clips can be removed with small a small flathead screwdriver.

8) Remove the top idler pulley and remove the stud (using the dual bolt interlocked technique) that holds the metal coolant and fuel lines (you can remove the thermostat housing to clear these lines easier)

9) Remove the Y pipe for better access to the heat shields and lower manifold bolts (lots and lots of PB Blaster required)

10) Remove the heat shields from the exhaust manifolds (again for better access) again spray it up with the PB.

11) Remove the vertical heat shield that is bolted to the intake manifold via 3 10mm bolts (use a long extension) and PB.

12) Remove the 6 bolts that are shared by the intake and exhaust manifolds (you can get to all of them from the space between the engine mount and the fire wall but the AC compressor can be unbolted and moved for better access to the farthest bolt for installation) lots a PB required.


13) Remove the 4 top bolts that secure the intake manifold and it should come off if you have removed all of the vacuum lines ect. (even more PB required)

14) Remove the 5 bolts that secure the exhaust manifold and remove it… (PB may be needed)


15) Clean all mating surfaces (gigity gigity) and fix any broken bolts/studs.

16) Insert studs (using the dual bolt interlocked technique) and place gasket into place.

I’m using a stud kit http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC05/15-8081 and gasket http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC05/10-2527 from MSA.

17) Bolt on the exhaust manifold (tighten the bolts evenly a little at a time until they are to the right torque spec) or just be a BOSS!

18) Bolt on the intake with the top bolts (tighten the bolts evenly a little at a time until they are to the right torque spec) this may be hard to do for the 6 shared bolts but again be LIKE A BOSS!

19) Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure (pretend number #17 is #1 and #1 is #17!!!!)

20) If necessary adjust idle speed.

21) Enjoy the fact that you just saved around $500 because you DIY’ed

 

Good thinking... too bad you're about 2.75 years too late: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/how-do-your-intake-exhaust-gasket-18779/

 

LOL LOL LOL ^^^^^^^ SOISOISOISOISOISOI ROFLCOPTER!!!!!!!



and you took quite a few to many steps and made the process actually harder.

 

i have actually been using that but it didn't help much, wanted to make one with the stock intake/exhaust mannies

 

Same nuts and bolts... what's the diff? I can add your steps, but you should probably fix all your spelling / grammar errors & add clear pics.

 

awww i still remember my first intake exhaust leak it was nasty ! 1983 280zx n/a/ auto i DIY and you wouldnt belive it only took me about 2 hours but then again get the n42 intake off a 1978 z car . hmmm wow look at that scar on my kunckle all the way down to the bone ! that one hurt ! super glue to the rescue ! you know what i did? i took the stock turbo manafold an made it look like the n-42 " just removed " the inter useless aluminum

 

after adding those pics, i must say.... you have an oil leak

 

and i must say thats PB blaster and road grime... durmash


btw IM GETTING HEADERS!!! woot woot!!! one of my exhaust manifold ports was F'd up and the JYard wants $130 for a stock manifold so i decided to drop $300 and get a little upgrade



EDIT*** wait snw... **** your right... ahh hell

2nd EDIT*** I'm thinking that the head gasket must have went one time with the PO (but idk why he didn't clean the oil and grime off) the oil isn't wet and every time i lift my car (i seem to find a reason almost every month) theres never fresh oil, i did have an oil pan leak when i first got it but i just tightened the bolts and it stopped... i also live in GA, we drive on dirt roads and never wash our cars

i guess my cars just grimey

 

you replace the VC gasket recently? could be from there or the head and just cooking into place from all the heat. and dont tell me what is and isnt oil!


Also look at the block behind the exhaust manifold at the front of the block, you can see where oil was running down the block there to. its probably a slow leak and the engine cooks the oil leaving no trail behind. its common in ANY engine.

 

damn your good i used one of the pos felpro ones... i forgot to put rtv on it and its leaking a little (i assumed it wouldn't need any because my old one didn't need any and it never leaked) but its not enough to have the side of the engine covered

ill check the head gasket out a little closer tomorrow and clean all the oil off

 

You don't rtv the valve cover gasket (you should rarely use rtv on anything)... you use this:

http://permatex.carshopinc.com/produ...id/42287/80697

 

i do feel though that the bottom end was coated in oil at one time though because a lot of the build up is flaking off now...

 

but-but-but Haynes said.... yeah i should probably get a can of that


i thought it was only oil pans and valve covers, just oil pans? or nothing at all?

 

depends on gasket material to be honest, like the nice rubber VC and oil pan gaskets shouldn't need anything, but those cork ones i dont trust very much, they just dont have much give to them to make a good sealing gasket i feel. and a THIN layer of high temp RTV probably couldn't hurt.