Yes, I know, search search search. my issue is that I don't have all of the things that I need to do it completely and the way that I want to do it.



Here's the deal: 1979 280zx

I had to replace the intake/exhaust gasket, it blew out on the rear exhaust port. While it's off, I would like to simplify it, which is going to include dewebbing it and such.

Here's the fun part

I don't have a pallnet rail or an aftermarket FPR, or a 60mm throttle body, but I would like to simplify as much as I can. I am willing to even plug soft hoses with clamped bolts and such in necessary. I don't need EGR or the cold start. Should I block the cold start with just a sheet metal block off plate and the gasket? That about all of the "junk" on the side of the intake, including the "T" rubber hose and everything it's connected to? What about the water line that runs to the TB? Pretty much, how can I simplify it while using the stock fuel rail?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

 

aye aye aye... you don't even need to search. We have a sticky on this.

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/eliminate-vacuum-hoses-clean-up-intake-manifold-19937/

 

Ah! Nismo, I knew that was posted somewhere. I wasn't entirely sure if everything applied with me using a stock rail and all, but I'm going to chance it, it looks like, just as soon as this webbing is gone..I've burned through 3 dremels so far!

 

Dremel? That will take years...

When I de-webbed my turbo intake (search my posts for pics), I used a drill to put holes around the edge where the runners / webbing meet, then knocked out the webbing chunks with a hammer. Then rough finish the left over "nubbins" with a cylinder shaped carbide tooth drill bit, and smooth it off with a ball tooth bit. We've discussed dewebbing before... thus the reason for research before work.

 

Well, I did end up using a drill and hammer to knock it out before I saw your post, then used a 4" grinder to take the nibs off. Now I'm using a dremel with a sander on it. Thinking of porting the intake runners with a flapper, which I have heard helps a little.

 

Lol, if you are actually planning on doing anything with the runners, plan on buying a die grinder and actual carbide bits/

 

I used the die grinder for the whole plenum other than drilling holes to remove the webbing (great minds think alike or have the same limited amount of tooling ) - cutting, grinding, sanding - a dremel is pretty much useless... You want an aluminum cutting bit - don't use a bur desgined for steel you'll just gum it up.... cutting wax is good too. 1" 40 grit flapper wheels are great for opening up the runners which is the most important thing you can do to your plenum....

 

well, I do have a die grinder, brand new in the box, but the air compressor keeps throwing the breaker, unfortunately (I need to beef it up from the 15 that it is, running the whole garage, 1 bathroom, and an outlet and fridge in the house. Don't ask me, the house was built like this! Oddly, the dryer is on two 20's!) I lack some carbise tips, though, which seems to be a make or break in this situation. Maybe I'll hit up ACE hardware tomorrow to price them...ACE has flapper wheels, but only in 80 and 60 grit. :/ My main concern would be getting them farther into the runners, the dremel only seems to extend about an inch and a half to two.

 

I doubt you will find the carbide tooth bits at Ace. They are more of a specialty item. I bought my set from a monster tool warehouse called "Industrial Supply" in Salt Lake City. I'm sure every big city has something similar. Expect to pay $10-$20 per bit. And ask about a steel brush to clean the bits too... aluminum will eventually clog the teeth and you can brush / scrape them clean (notice how I said "clog"... you will be amazed at how well the bits cut through the aluminum).

 

Ace actually did have one, but it was the standard metal one, not one specifically for aluminum. I have plenty of wire brushes from hand held to dremel to drill sized. It hasn't clogged up too much yet, but I also didn't get a whole lot done, I got called up for national guard duty. it does a great job, and I'm looking forward to Monday when I can finish it. also, my manifold should be finished tonight, which kinda sucks, because I won't be able to do that untill Monday, also. Lol

 

Also, for those interested, the bit I got from Ace was a roundish point, kind of like a grain silo with a peak, and it was about $22

 

Alright, I have another question. In the intake manifold cleanup/vaccum line elimination, it says that I need to vaccum ports still, one for the FPR, and one for the purge on the carbon canister. I'm guessing that because I eliminated my charcoal canister, I can block this one off?

 

If you have to use a burr use a cutting wax or oil - a little more messy but it helps a LOT to keep the burr from loading up. What you really want is this type of bit for aluminum.

http://www.ruchcarbide.com/My_Homepa...es/Page33.html

A burr is good for cast steel used on the exhaust manifold.

 

Yes on blocking the vacuum port, and yes on those tips ^^^. This is my main carbide tooth bit:

 

wonderful on the vaccum port. And that is very similr to the bit that I bought, except mine has a crisscross pattern on the edges, rather than parallel edges, and it has a bit more or a point to it.