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L28ET not getting injection or spark.

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Old 11-22-2009, 09:14 PM
  #26  
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well zlover got her running today. he called me saying the ECU LED wasn't lighting up so i said check grounds and the main sources of power, turns out from what i gathered on the phone the main power lead came off the + battery terminal and it started sputtering, then finally running. then after running a bit i guess it started revving good, or at least seemingly good. i wasn't there, been having a bad time and lack motivation to do crap haha. hopefully though we got another turbo S30 on the streets soon.

and randy, i still don't know about fuel pressure we should check it cause that pump sounds weak haha.

im sure he will be on here to update soon enough. i was just bored and thought i'd fill in the main mystery to this thread.
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:36 PM
  #27  
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True that.

Checked the ECU first... no LED. The ECU's power wires had broken where I had stripped the sheathing and it was therefore no longer connected to the battery. Spliced the two wires together, connected them via crimp connector to a thicker wire, and that to the battery resolved that issue. Then, under cranking, it'd sputter like it wanted to start. Upon checking the grounds on the intake plenum (thank you Datsun for putting all of them in the same place - makes them easy to find), one bolt wasn't tightened... tightened it and it fired right up. Video and story in the following link:

http://www.chicagoz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23381
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:15 AM
  #28  
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And I've always planned on a fuel pressure gauge (since there is uncertainty as to what that pump can flow), I was just hoping I wouldn't need one until I could afford an electronic one. I don't know why you don't like the sound of the pump... sounds just fine to me.
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:33 PM
  #29  
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Sweet!

< check LED ... that was my idea >
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:50 PM
  #30  
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I just didn't expect the wire to break. I knew it had to be a vital connection that was lost if it lost both fuel and spark, but we checked the LED on the ECU prior to starting it and it was fine... must've gotten tugged on and broken by the AC drier or something that we moved around near the battery. Either way, it actually starts, and that's the big hurdle to overcome.

Now I just have to get it running smoothly, get the gauges working (tach, water temp, speedo [cable is broken]), and put brakes and tires on it and I can see how much suspension work it needs.

And then I get to figure out how the f*ck to disconnect the heater linkage so that I can put a stereo in the car. (I'll post about that in the proper forum, though.)
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