280ZX Performance / Technical Discussions related to Turbo charging, Supercharging, Engine, ECU, exhaust, and etc. performance enhancements.
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Old 06-04-2012 | 03:09 PM
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3rdowner's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Mobile, Alabama
limit of my limited ability

So I could use some guidance. Blower motor not coming on. There has been much fsm reading, searching the forum to arrive at the discovery of a scorched pin connection at the six pin connector - main to heater circuit harness (under the g.box). I believe this black wire should be a ground.

1982 280zx n/a. Been sitting up couple years indoors after many months outdoors in weather w/o being driven. Had to straightwire fuel pump to drive to wharehouse back then before I started this process. With forum research, I corrected fuel problem (relay, etc) and can see the cause - water through the rust in the acc/f.pump/ign relay area.

There is more history but to avoid getting too long, I will only say that all else appears to work except the horn. For someone that really doesn't know what he's doing I have already solved several problems by following threads on this site and want to says thanks.

Point me in a direction and I'll give it a go before I take her to a shop and bite the bullet.
Old 06-05-2012 | 02:21 PM
  #2  
NismoPick's Avatar
The Good Twin
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Welcome to ZDriver!

So did you fix / replace the scorched pin?
Have you checked the blower relay?
Have you checked for power?
Old 06-05-2012 | 03:10 PM
  #3  
3rdowner's Avatar
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From: Mobile, Alabama
Thanks for the welcome!

Replacing the pin and checking the relay, switch and control amplifier is my next path. I registered to say thanks for the shared knowledge and the inspiration for me to keep this car.

Needless to say, there are some quirky things going on electrically (to me!) but I have more time than money and I am getting a hella education!

Strangely, I had the motor working for a while after freeing up a sticky hazard switch and correcting a poor connection on the radio/acc fuse.

Hydrated tires and a fixed radiator leak will be enough for me to tag and insure her again. The rest will be a long-term rolling shakedown.

I'll update as I progress.
Old 06-06-2012 | 04:00 AM
  #4  
WildmaN's Avatar
More Than Meets The Eye
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,120
From: Mesa, Az
Welcome man. Also your climate control switch could be shot, which would cause your blower motor to not turn on. That is what happened with mine. I just need to replace the whole climate control mechanism. Which will take me a few hours. It was too hot last weekend. lol All aside, good luck man. And keep us posted.
Old 06-06-2012 | 11:56 AM
  #5  
3rdowner's Avatar
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From: Mobile, Alabama
Hey thanks WildmaN, Your suggestion re: CCswitch sent me back to the manual (finding stuff in there all the time that can help me!). I want to be clear about which switch - I have manual a/c.

Haven't been able to give the time to troubleshoot but will be back on it by next week - thanks again.
Old 06-11-2012 | 02:38 PM
  #6  
3rdowner's Avatar
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From: Mobile, Alabama
Never overlook the obvious - I ended up back at the fuse block (see post #3) and found enough oxidation to prevent a good fuse connection at the 20 amp a/c fuse. So motor's working for now.

What's the best way to undo the plastic straps binding the harness/wires to the back of the fuse block? Don't want to break them. I figured I would hit those fuse slots with crc contact cleaner unless I hear otherwise from the more experienced here.

Putting everything back in for now to drive a little and start to prioritize the to-do list so I'll consider this intro thread done!
Old 06-11-2012 | 05:44 PM
  #7  
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,415
From: Mill Creek WA
deoxit by caig is better than crc. you are learning electricity. corrosion, poor connections, poor grounds are the bane of 20 something year old auto wiring. if you have a burnt pin just bypass it with a jumper. chances are you aren't going to be undoing that connector anytime soon. clip the wires both sides and solder in a jumper. use heat shrink to insulate. (hint put the heat shrink on the wire before you solder). Get some deoxit and spray all the connections you can hit. ecu, afm for sure. if you look close at the ty wraps on the wires you should see a little key thing that will unlock the clasp by either pushing down or pulling up I forget which. if nothing else cut em and buy a bag of 100 at home depot for like three bucks. after you do the deoxit spray with corrosion X to prevent further corrosion. (don't use dielectric grease as many promote on these sites - dielectric means insulation which is not what you want)
Old 06-12-2012 | 09:53 AM
  #8  
3rdowner's Avatar
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From: Mobile, Alabama
Rogerz, thanks for the product rec. Not yet sure the connector pin is causing a problem, but the jumper suggestion had also come from one of the truck techs I work with (these guys are getting a few laughs at my expense).

I am trying to refrain from asking a question before I have exhausted all my other resources - as my six year old told me one day after her return from school: "DO. YOUR. WORK!"
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