Loss of oil pressure!!
#3
ummm, no. The oil is 3/4 the way up the hashes on the dip stick...fresh new oil and it only does it around right hand turns...half to 3/4 gas pedal. Granted they are tight turns but this car should handle that right? Maybe I should get one of those swiveling pick up tubes for my spirited driving.
#4
pickup screen might have some blockage on it. If it's all gunked up then it's not going to let oil through. Also, make sure your pan isn't dented in a sort of way that would inhibit oil pickup. Other than that, take the NASCAR route when you drive: All lefts baby
#5
Makes sense, now I have been under the car and it looks like there really is no way, no easy way to drop the pan without lifting the block what with the rack in the way and all. Now driving in a straight line the oil pressure is one line below 90...sometimes the second line to the left of 90, at an idle it is a little over half on the gauge. 10w30 oil.
#7
hmm are you 100% SHURe your oil pump is god.. might sound a little sarcastic or offensive. but i mean you got to start from the source.... if the pump is bad then replace it and for SHURE you should have pressure and oil circulation now if you're BURNING OIL thats a different story
#8
Originally Posted by Superduner
hmm are you 100% SHURe your oil pump is god.. might sound a little sarcastic or offensive. but i mean you got to start from the source.... if the pump is bad then replace it and for SHURE you should have pressure and oil circulation now if you're BURNING OIL thats a different story
#9
Originally Posted by thxone
I am not 100% sure of anything...I know the pan is not leaking or the valve cover but the oil is going somewhere...every two weeks I have to put in a quart....but I am not seeing ANY smoke out of the tail pipe except under full throttle...but I have my O2 sensor unhooked.
#10
Originally Posted by Superduner
hmm are you 100% SHURe your oil pump is god.. might sound a little sarcastic or offensive. but i mean you got to start from the source.... if the pump is bad then replace it and for SHURE you should have pressure and oil circulation now if you're BURNING OIL thats a different story
#12
check the pvc valve for leakage as well, sometimes those can cause some problems with oil leaving the car. as for going around corners, thats odd, especially if you did an oil change, and check it like you have. got to the wreck yard and try a diff, sender. eliminate something. then go from there.
#13
If you're adding a quart every two weeks, you're definitely loosing oil somewhere.
Are you parking it somewhere you would notice the oil if it were leaking?
First, replace the oil pressure sender. These are prone to failure. That will guarantee you get an accurate reading on your oil pressure gauge.
Check for leaks where your tranny mates to the block.
Any reason why you have your O2 sensor out?
Are you parking it somewhere you would notice the oil if it were leaking?
First, replace the oil pressure sender. These are prone to failure. That will guarantee you get an accurate reading on your oil pressure gauge.
Check for leaks where your tranny mates to the block.
Any reason why you have your O2 sensor out?
#14
Originally Posted by lww
If you're adding a quart every two weeks, you're definitely loosing oil somewhere.
Are you parking it somewhere you would notice the oil if it were leaking?
First, replace the oil pressure sender. These are prone to failure. That will guarantee you get an accurate reading on your oil pressure gauge.
Check for leaks where your tranny mates to the block.
Any reason why you have your O2 sensor out?
Are you parking it somewhere you would notice the oil if it were leaking?
First, replace the oil pressure sender. These are prone to failure. That will guarantee you get an accurate reading on your oil pressure gauge.
Check for leaks where your tranny mates to the block.
Any reason why you have your O2 sensor out?
1. Yes, I see fluid leaking all the time..pretty sure it is the rack
2. I will look into the sender...good idea anyway, I am sure it is old
3. Tranny to Block is bone dry
4. Remember that my exhaust is held on by one bolt off the manifold where there should be 3 bolts and when I first tried to fix it I decided to replace the O2 sensor as well but it fell apart? Well I got a new O2 but it would not thread in as it was stripped inside the mounting hole...so I had the hole welded up to seal that leak until I can get the header from WildMan. Soon enough I will get it but then I will also be spending $225 on a full 2 1/2 inch stainless exhaust with muffler... so I am trying to save it all up first cause its gonna be loud driving to the muffler shop. They are also going to shorten the header and fab a new collector as I told them I will be lowering the car...they said they will make the exhaust hug the body as tight as they can without making rattleing noises. Not bad for $225.
#15
Yeah I still haven't got around to getting a quote for you on the header. But it seems I still have some time yet on doing that. And $225 for all that at a shop? Not bad bro', not bad at all. When I do my turbo swap in a year, I will get a brand new exhaust. Until then, mine will do for now. Anyway I will keep you informed on the header shipping quote man.
#17
Update!!
Ok, I think the car IS in fact burning oil, I followed behind my car in another car and there is a little bit of blueish smoke out of the pipe. My guess is possibly valve seals? It would make the most sense to me. I may go to a "thicker" oil for a while and see if it helps...maybe a straight 30 oil or maybe 20-50...not like it gets that cold here. Is there a better way to check the oil problem without tearing apart the engine? Like pulling the plugs one by one right? Any other thoughts? If it is not a chick messin with my head it is my car getting mad at me cause I dissed her for that chick....what is it with girls, they are so twitchy.
#19
Well, I have seen a small puff on start up as I usually let the car warm up before I drive it, but the smoke goes away. While it was warmed up is when it did it the most but it is not a lot of smoke. It has to be oil from above dripping to the pistons and "pooling up" But yes, under FULL throttle it smokes alot...again the O2 sensor is not in there as the hole is welded up.
#21
I have a similiar problem, I found out yesterday while tuning my Z. That I am burning oil in #5, and #3. And #1 plug was damaged on the electrode, kind of had a slit in it. But #2, #4, and #6 all looked pretty good. And according to the pics in my manual. Normal looking, and like they should be. But yeah I gave my Z a much needed tune-up yesterday, and he runs better. But I believe my rings are bad. Because when I pulled the plugs out, the 2 cylinders I mentioned, had oil on the plugs, and right where the plug screws into. Oh well I abused this motor when I drove my '81 too hot, and warped the head. So I probably did damage internally to it. Well hopefully it will hold together, until I get the '83 running.
Sorry to jack your thread thxone, but it is kind of on topic. he he
Sorry to jack your thread thxone, but it is kind of on topic. he he
#24
sounds like valve seals to me. And it's not uncommon for valve seals to start going on lower mileage engines like yours Thxone. They can harden with age whether they have many miles on them or not. Rings on the other hand tend to wear with mileage.
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