I have a 82 turbo 280zx
I'm looking to install a complete intercooler setup. I have been looking at HKS....What would I also need in order to increase boost. If anybody else has already done the setup, tell me what to get. Boost controller:Which make and model. Do I need a BOV or POV. What is it about a POV that is in the intake manifold that needs to be changed? How do I change it. I'm wanting to use the original T3 turbo (Hopefully that's what the model is) ......What is the highest boost I can run with the stock turbo? How much Horsepower gain should I look for? I plan on getting a T4 later on, but if the original turbo can handle 60 more horsepower, then I'll stick with that. I'm looking for maybe 50-80 extra horses. Can the stock turbo handle it?

 

The stock turbo will handle 60 hp over stock. You shouldn't be concerned with how much boost a turbo can generate. What you should be concerned with is how much airflow the turbo can generate. Then worry about about at what boost it can flow that much air. And once you've got that figured out then you worry about what RPM is needed to get that boost. But that's all beyond the scope of using the stock turbo. As far as POV or BOV it doesn't really matter. But the higher your boost levels get the more likely you are to damage your compressor if you don't have a BOV. A POV isn't neccessary if you've got a BOV, but a BOV WILL be neccessary no matter what if you start increasing boost and want the compressor to last. HKS is a great company that manufactures great parts. A bit pricey but you definitely get what you pay for. As far as boost controllers, don't go with too generic a model that can't be backed up by customer use. TurboXS makes a very good manual boost controller at a very good price. All the big name tuner companies like HKS, Blitz, GReddy, etc. also have manual and auto variations. Unless you're going to be running massive boost levels an automativ isn't going to justify it's price tag. The T3 is a low end turbo but the L28 isn't exactly a high revving engine so the T3 is a good fit for streetable power levels with almost non existant lag. The only thing about small turbos is it takes more boost to make a determined power level than it does from a larger turbo but you get better response from the smaller turbo. If all you're looking for is 50 to 60 HP then stick with the stock turbo. That way you'll keep your motor intact. Oh and just so you know, the stock internals will handle your 50-60HP extra just so long as it isn't in bad shape internally. Good luck. And all that controls the POV is how strong of a spring it has in it. You can manually adjust the stock POV by installing stiffer springs or shimming the stock spring. But be careful how much boost you run.

 

Oh and AV8R, all that needs to be changed internally on the L28 to run at massive power levels is the Pistons. Everything else in that engine, given that it's in good condition, will take plenty of abuse. The entire bottom end is forged, except for the pistons and the block is plenty strong. So don't worry about internal modifications unless you're unsure about the condition of your motor.

And another thing you can do to safely run higher boost levels is to install a water injection system. That will allow more boost without detonation.

 

And thats that nothing left to add.. J said it all..

 

Sorry. Am I whoring it up

 

Beautifully!

 

dont' forget the stickers on the fenders!

 

Oh god thanks Bleach I almost forgot the most important part. And of course as you all know, none of those mods will work right without a HUGE "POWERED BY DATSUN" sticker plastered across either the windshield or hatch glass. It's your choice, but reports say that the windshield is a more effective location because it'll provide more downforce. And without those fenders stickers handling will be thrown off without the much needed balance they provide. Plus you'll be losing a few HP without them and have hard starting to boot. (no smiley, I'm dead serious about this)

 

One other thing to keep in mind concerning the boost controller is that manual boost controllers tend to be temp and to some extent air density dependent. (elevation) The colder the air, the more the controller be apt to spiking over your setting and the hotter the air, the less likely you are to hit your boost threshold. That's part of the reason the appeal of electronic boost controllers is so high, they hit your set psi no matter what, unless you spring a boost a leak or your friend who was helping you put your i/c pipes back on didn't tighten the v-band nut down... (don't ask me how I this)

 

Oh and if you're going to do this i/c install yourself, be sure to have a Dremel and a good holesaw, it will make life a whole lot easier! I'm not sure if the HKS kit requires any cutting, but my setup did. The cutting of the frontal area to allow the pipes to fit took longer than anything else during the process.

 

Yup, cutting that hole out in the radiator support is the most difficult part. You have to contort yourself in very interesting ways in order to get the cut just right.

That's why I had my girlfriend do the cutting while I directed her...

 

cant wait to see what happens when I have to cut 2 3in. holes on the same side...

 

just curious, how much are you spending on the HKS setup? I think MSA asks like $2500

 

Yeah... around $2k. I seriously don't understand why anyone would pay that much for an IC setup. I think most of us in here are mechanically inclined enough to at least install our own setups... WHY ARE PEOPLE SPENDING $2K ON IC SETUPS?

280ZX_AV8R: check this out... go to a junk yard and find an Diesel Isuzu truck, or even an 80's Volvo turbo & grab the intercooler for ($50 - $80.) Or check this new one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Inter...spagenameZWDVW

Add a couple 2.5" "shiny" mandrel bend pipes from ebay ($100) : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-I...spagenameZWDVW

And several ic silicon couplers from ebay ($15) : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-2-5...94820832QQrdZ1


For $300, maybe $500 max... you have a huge, nice intercooler setup. I've attached pics from ebay & one of the Sin City Z's.

 

Yeah $2k is just ridiculous.

Especially since they have all the mandrel bends in a computer program, and at the hit of a "RUN" button it can crank out the 280ZX kit....I dont understand why they dont drop the price.

If their price was even $1500, i bet they would sell many many more than they currently do....I dont know of anyone who owns the HKS kit, and i've been around the Z forums for about 5-6 years now.

 

This guy says he's using an HKS intercooler setup : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/772464/2 to many bends & wack plumbing! Keep it simple.... The more bends, the less efficient the air flow.

 

Think about it though. If HKS sold intercooler kits for $500 people would just blow them off as another cheap rip off company and they probably wouldn't end up selling anything. The jacked up price is just a way of protecting their rep. And you also gotta remember that Japanese tuning culture is the complete opposite of ours here in the states. Where as we look for the mods that have the least impact on our wallets and try to peice stuff together ourselves, Over there they pride themselves on having the best expensive parts and working on your car yourself isn't something to brag about. Nope. Having a shop like Top Secret or the like do the tuning for your is considered something to brag about. And since the Japanese tuning circles pretty much only have Japanese companies to choose from, and they all are expensive, it's not a problem for HKS to have high prices since they know they'll still sale tons of parts where it matters to them, In Japan. And people over here will continue to fork over large amounts of cash for their parts too. Maybe not in the 280zx circles, but check around what the Z32 and Z33 guys are putting on their cars and it's not usually the cheapest junk yard parts they can find.
And if the L28 had a cross flow head that intercooler probably wouldn't have as much piping as it does. Plus you gotta figure that the in and out sides of the IC are on opposite sides of the IC so the external bends are actually less restrictive then if the IC inlet and outlet were on the same side of the IC which would have the restriction inside of the intercooler itself giving the misconception that there is less restriction

 

J is mostly right, but a properly designed intercooler with input and outputs on one side is just as efficient as one with ports on opposite sides.

 

Well I'm just saying that the elbow coming out of the IC in that pic isn't going to produce much more restriction (if any more at all)than an IC that has to route the air through a Uturn inside of the IC. Either way it's still gotta be routed back the way it came because of the design of the L. So to say the piping is causing more of a pressure drop than an IC that could flow the air back the way it came isn't true.